I have to force the shifter into gear (all) or I can not get it to shift at all. the clutch level fluid is at max. the clutch does feel soft. Once in gear I can shift thru the gear, but hard. Some times I can't get it into 1st but I can get it in 2nd and once again I can shift thru the gear but hard.

With engine off, does the shifter get gears easily?
If so, it could be your hydraulic clutch. Check the fluid level on the clutch master cylinder's reservoir-on the firewall. If it is low, add brake fluid to it. If it was dry, you will probably have to bleed the hydraulic clutch down at the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing.
When clutch pedal is pressed, the clutch master cylinder will force fluid down the line to the small slave cylinder. There, a small plunger is forced out (about an inch or less) from the slave cylinder, and pushes the clutch fork forward. The fork causes the clutch inside the bell housing to operate. Look for this movement of the slave cylinder pushing the clutch fork while someone presses down or pumps the clutch pedal. With the engine off, of course.

Well, it would shift easily with engine off, because the transmission input shaft is not turning. Engine running and clutch engaging good, the input shaft would again be stationary and allow smooth shifting.
What you have to determine is if the clutch disc or pressure plate is bad (a new clutch is needed), or if the pedal hydraulic system has a malfunction. When you push the pedal down, a rod from the top of pedal pushes into the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall under the hood. This cylinder has a reservoir filled with brake fluid. When the rod forces fluid from the clutch master down a steel line and into the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission bell housing, the hydraulic pressure forces a plunger from the slave cylinder to extend and push the clutch fork lever a small amount, enough to force the clutch release bearing (aka throw-out bearing) against the pressure plate. This relieves pressure on the clutch disc and input shaft becomes stationary for easy shifting.

Check your clutch fluid,if empty,then your slave cylinder is bad.

You maybe low on clutch fluid. (possible leak)
Check fluid level, if low add more and pump the clutch.

Possible causes are: The clutch is going out, the hydraulic clutch system is low on fluid, or the transmission input shaft is binding on the pilot bearing. 1. Is the pedal firm and does it feel like it used to? (low fluid). 2. Once in gear and moving push on clutch and notice when the transmission disengages. If it does not disengage until the pedal is almost at the top then the clutch is getting thin and will need replacing. 3. With vehicle on a smooth flat surface, depress clutch and try to shift into any and all gears. Notice if vehicle tries to lurch forward as shifter goes into gear. This may be a subtle lurch but should be noticeable. This checks for a binding pilot bushing. Let me know what you find. Thanks and please rate.

Have the vehicle on a level piece of road, engine running, transmission in 'park' with the parking brake on. Remove the transmission dip stick and take a measurement of the fluid level. If low add fluid a pint at a time via the transmission dip stick tube. Keep filling until the level is 'max' on the dip stick. The reason for keeping the engine running and in park is to ensure that fluid is continually forced into the torque converter. If you measure the fluid level with the engine off fluid drains out of the converter giving a false reading. Snatched gear changes are due to late shifts caused by low fluid levels in the converter. Once filled properly it should shift earlier and with no fuss. A worn clutch is usually signified by a slippage while in gear..the engine gains in speed but the car fails to pick up at the same time.

check the transmission fluid level.

Do you find it does the same when engaging reverse gear ? if so it sounds as if you may have a hydraulic problem, Check the clutch fluid reservoir, and top up if low ( level should be on max level, if low there is a leak in the system ) once topped up,operate the clutch pedal up and down a dozen or so times, if the pedal now feels harder there was air in the system.It will happen again,fluid level will also drop again so you may have to renew leaking component ( adviseable to renew master and slave cylinders if that prove to be the fault )

It sounds like a hydrallic clutch problem.If there's no external leak (clear fluid under the car or by your feet under the dash) then there could be an internal cylinder leak (when the plunger inside the cylinder no longer seals resulting in loss of hydrallic pressure).Fluid levels will be normal.This is common resulting in the shifter sticking in gear.

the transmission needs to be taken apart and have the second gear synchro replaced. i would start with just have BG sychro shift put in at a local shop that sells BG. that will help with the problem.