How to set timing when you relesh tensioner and it changes the alignment postion of pullies 2000 ford ranger 2.5 l

I've never done one on a Ranger, but most timing gears have alignment marks that you line up before you install the belt. Don't forget to replace the belt tensioner while you're at it.

I assume 4cyl?

1. Loosen tensioner adjusting bolt.

1. Using Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A, pry tensioner clockwise against spring tension as far as possible.

1. Tighten adjusting bolt to hold tensioner in released position.

1. Align crankshaft so number one piston is at TDC (top dead center) with crankshaft key pointing straight up and circle on crankshaft sprocket (6306) aligned with notch in engine front cover (6019) .

1. Align triangle on camshaft sprocket with triangle on inner timing belt cover.

1. Align diamond on oil pump sprocket with diamond on inner timing belt cover.
   
   Timing Mark Alignment

regardless of the v6 engine u have the belt tenioners r phenominal about going bad in mostly 2 ways one way is not retracting or bouncing back and second is they dont stay aligned when it is pulled down from excellerating and it throws the belt.

One is on the crank shaft pully (for TDC). It is a line, scribed on the pully, that alligns to a pointer on the plastic timing belt cover. The second is on the cam shaft pully. It can be accessed by removing the rubber inspection plug on the timing belt cover. The third is on the auxillary shaft (oil pump) and is also accessed through an inspection plug on the timing belt cover.

On the cam and oil pump pullies, the diamond aligns to the diamond and the triangle aligns to the triangle (the pullies have both). These should be perfectly aligned when the crankshaft pully line is at 0 deg TDC. If you can't see the marks through the inspection port while the crank is at 0 TDC, you are 180 degrees out - turn the crank one more time. 

the timing maks are at the front of engine above the crankshaft pully, the index mark is cut into the pully and base timing is set to10 deg.'s with the spout connector disconnected!

hi from uk the cambelt/timing belt comes as a kit ie timing belt and tensioner cost £50 here in uk ? it is not too difficult diy job approx 2hours the engine must 1st be set to TDC number 1 firing then at this setting the cam cog mark is a hole drilling in the web of cog and should line up at 12 oclock upwards and using a mirror look thro drill hole and you will see a vertical notch/groove behind on font engineface this is correct mark the crank cog mark lines up with aother mark on engine front face at approx 12 30 pm oclock ? if now set you slacken tensioner bolts and push t/pully away to left from belt ? then remove belt next remove complete tensioner assy after undoing bolts then fit new tensioner push t/pully to left from belt run and lock bolt/s recheck t/marks then fit new belt from c/shaft in anticlockwise rotation when fitted release tensioner bolt and allow to tension belt push t/pully onto belt and lock up tensioner bolts20=27 Nm rotate engine manually for four turns then recheck marks ? should still aligne then re assemble torque crank bolt to =140-150 Nm A LITTLE HINT ? b4 you remove the water pump belt ? slacken thefour 10 mm headed bolts (spanner size) that secure w/pump pully to pump it will be easier to halt rotation of pully if you holt belt tight by hand this pully has to come off to remove c/belt covers same for power steer belt which is also driven from the w/pump pully the power steer pump slide adjuster has a 12 mm bolt you slacken and best done with open end spanner ? after slackening the pump mounting bolts/nuts underneath pump hope you can follow this info/tips wish you good luck from uk

Your question states both 94 and 95 for model year.
94 and 95 ranger had a 2.3L.

1. If not done:
   1. Loosen tensioner adjusting bolt.
   1. Using Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A, pry tensioner clockwise against spring tension as far as possible.
   1. Tighten adjusting bolt to hold tensioner in released position.

1. Align crankshaft so number one piston is at TDC (top dead center) with crankshaft key pointing straight up and circle on crankshaft sprocket (6306) aligned with notch in engine front cover (6019) .

1. Align triangle on camshaft sprocket with triangle on inner timing belt cover.

1. Align diamond on oil pump sprocket with diamond on inner timing belt cover.
   
   Timing Mark Alignment
   

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

Align harmonic damper mark at TDC with #1 piston at top. You'll have to remove harmonic damper on front of crank. (You can do it without removing the damper, but it's a real pain in the rear.) This WILL require an industrial strength impact wrench to break the bolt loose. Pull spark plugs. Makes last step easy and you can use a screwdriver to make sure #1 is at top. You'll see tick marks on the crank pulley, the cam pulley and the auxillary shaft pulley. These marks must line up. Use a straight edge (ruler, piece of flat metal stock, etc.) to make sure they're aligned. Pull tensioner arm back and lock it there. Install belt around pullies. Now comes the tricky part. Whne you release the tensioner, the auxillary shaft will rotate at least one tooth off of alignment. Release tension and compensate auxillary shaft postion. You want the marks aligned with the belt under tension. Now using a long wrench, rotate the engine clockwise by turning the crank balancer bolt. After 2 complete revolutions back to TDC, confirm timing mark alignment on the pullies. If they're off, redo it until they're aligned. Good luck.

There is a DOHC or SOHC (double or Single overhead cam engone. Both are Similar. Both have a notch on back side of crank pully that aligns with a tab on engine just above crank pully looks like a triangle with the tip near crank pully is rounded off. SOHC engines have an arrow on cam pully that aligns with a point at top of timing belt rear housing. about straight up at top of it. DOHC have an I and an E on the cam pullys I for INTAKE and E for EXHAUST. the I and E match up at same type points on top of rear Timing belt housing. When installing belt make sure you do not move pullys. put belt on starting with cam shaft (s) then down to crank on tension side which looking at motor will be the right side or Clockwise direction keeping it tight no, or EXTREEMLY little slack. then back up around tensioner. Tensioner should be the last pully to go around. Once on make sure timing marks still lline up.Adjust tensioner and. rotate engine BY HAND 4 times and re check marks.