2001 2.4l turbo timing marks see marks on cam sprockets and 2 marks on crank pully, but were to line up exuast cam./ intake / and crank pully to what have cams 12oclock and crank at 12 oclock

With Cam Caps loosened, FIRST loosen timing chain tensioner, press it in to loosen tension, Crank using ratchet to TDC (Top Dead Center on crank pully, (to keep from damage to pistons), align Exhaust Cam Timing Mark to mark on #1 Exhaust cam cover, then take up slack between Exhaust & Intake Cams (on top between the cams), Then align the Intake Cam to mark on #1 Cam Cap, "Now" loosen the 17mm bolt to tighten timing chain, rotate engine using rachet two times, reset TDC at the crank, and look at "Cam Timing Marks on both the Exhaust, and Intake Cams. If you did all this correctly the "Timing Marks" should be lined up so TDC,Exhaust, and Intake marks are all the same.

on the crank there is a mark on the engine a mark its like a line on the backside of the engine and a spot on the crank sprocket on the top at the cam should have a hole in the center of the cam sprocket with a red line on the head top near valve cover it should line up properly or if you have 2 marks on the cam sprocket -- one on each side of the sprocket and on the engine side or cover should have 2 marks as well that line up do not take off the timing belt until you have all the marks properly lined up then you can remove the belt but do not turn over the engine without installing the new belt

just replaced an oil pump, still faluring when engine hot.

rotate the engine till the crankshaft sprocket mark lines up with the second silver link on the chain, should @ the 5:00 position. on the right sprocket or the intake sprocket align the intake diamond with the copper link should set at the 2:00 position, and the triangle on the exhaust sprocket should line up with the other silver link in the chain approxamately at the 10:00 position. Once you get it in time, it is a good idea to put a bar on the crank and turn the engine over one complete revolution, just to make sure you got it timed right. hope this helps

TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

start by removing top front camshaft cover ,revealing camshaft sprockets. now jack veihcul up and place on stands. remove left hand front wheel (cam belt side) . remove power sterring belt and alternater belt.looking at crankshaft pully and using an 18mm socket and bar rotate pully until all three marks line up. crank on 1st timing mark and and cam marks facing each other when all three line up you can then remove crankshaft pully , you will need an impact wrench that can torque up to 300lbs .when pully has been removed you can then remove the lower belt cover you will then see the belt tensioner and unbolt and remove , now place a jack with protection under sump and remove bolts on engine mount, when you have separted the 2 halves of the engine mount you can remove the belt and install new belt , k,series cam holder tool is use full for re-alineing cam marks camshaft marks facing each other and crank line up with raised mark on engine block,it is then a case of putting every thing back inthe same order it came off.there are 2 type of cam belt tensioner you can email me and i will tell you how to do each type. [email protected].

Ibring piston to compression stroke. Apiece of tissue in the plug hole will blow out and then turn crank by hand until the piston is at the top. There should be timing mstks on the crankshaft pully.no timing marks? Then ease the crank around untill the piston starts to go done you can feel the piston with a straw. Note, the crank pully keyway more than like be at the 12 oclock position. good luck

well not sure exactly why it wont line up use something to turn the crank and cam to appropiate position start sliding crank gear until cam gear is touching then start to push both at same time make sure your crank key and cam pin are bothin place On many OHV pushrod engines, the crankshaft sprocket is installed on the crankshaft nose and the crankshaft is rotated to position piston #1 at TDC. At this point, a mark stamped onto the crankshaft sprocket is pointing directly upward (toward the camshaft).
The camshaft sprocket is then temporarily bolted to the cam and used to rotate the cam until a mark stamped on the cam sprocket is pointing directly downward (toward the crankshaft). The sprocket is then removed from the cam (without allowing the cam to rotate).
The timing chain is looped over the cam gear, the mark on the cam gear is positioned directly downward, and the chain is looped around the crankshaft sprocket. When the cam sprocket is attached to the cam, the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets should be pointing toward one another.

you have 2 sprokets to worry about the top two and crank gear, the crank gear has knocht on it and index on block ( towards back of gear visible from top) place on tdc mark ( top dead center), install the timing belt on this gear first then secure it with a piece of hose or anything that fits in between housing and belt to secure belt from moving from gear) then align the right side sproket on "E" for exhaust cam at top marks on cover and sprocket, then install belt over that sprocket, finally align left side sprocket "I" for intake to the top mark and install belt not too tight or it will make noise just make sure it is firm. now to double check from left to right with you standing in front of vehicle you should have left cam sprocket with "I" for intake to the top and right sproket with "E" for exhaust to the top. having bottom gear on tdc (top dead center mark) and all marks lined up with belt installed and proper tension secured, turn engine over twice and make sure marks meet in the same place then put everything back together. ( recommend you replace both idler and tension pulleys and check water pump, replace if needed or you'll be back.- this procedure goes the same to spectra, sephia, sportage, you will not damage the engine on these vehicles if belt goes out except rio. if timing belt goes out on the rio it will need an engine, if lucky just head. recommended replacement on all is every 60k miles) goo luck tightening the power steering drive belt when you put everything back together, just use a long bar to pry and good leverage. and a second hand comes in handy.