Engine oil pressure stays at approx.30 psi regardless if engine is cold ,hot,idling or highway speed.Intermittent ticking or mild main bearing noise,no rhyme or reason to it.Could start right away or after 20 miles or more.Im thinking oil pressure problem-pump or clogged oil ports,please advise.-thanks

Different engines can show different values. Sometimes it is the sensor itself that causes the variation. The pressures that you are witnessing are well within operation norms and are nothing to be worried about. As long as you don't experience severe drops in oil pressure during acceleration and deceleration, then the oil pressure system is working well.

4psi idle (bad) and revving to 3k does what, you didnt say.
what was idle RPM 800 or 400>?
the answer is different by hot and cold oil
and oil type, no type stated (do not say brands) 10w30?
running 0w are you>?
and is as low as 8psi hot. at idle ,that is if idle speed is at spec.
is it?
and 3000 rpm would be like 25psi hot, and more cold.
the max pressure will be the pump regulator value.

here is the sensor spec.

The sensor closes when the oil pressure drops to between 4-7 psi (28-48 kPa).

the oil type and bearings clearances (in total) dictate pressure.

3,1 CPC engine spec is.

The engine produces oil pressure from the resistance(clearance ) between the bearings and crankshaft and the sending unit lets you know when there is no pressure. These switches ground the light in the dash around 5 psi. So as the engine gets warmer then the oil gets thinner with large amounts of clearance pressure drops. Test system with mechanical unit normal hot idle pressure should be 30-45 psi if low raise idle speed comes up then engine bearings are worn.

the oil sending unit grounds out the dash light bulb as engine speed increases the pressure rises and turn light off normal idle hot oil pressure 30-40 psi. if low then engine bearings are worn.

first you will have to say what the oil pressure is cold, idle and 2000 rpms and then hot idle and 2000 rpms before a decision to advise about a rebuild can be made
there are many reasons oil pressure can drop and not all require a rebuild

If the noise you are hearing is a deep hard sounding knock or rapid metallic rattle that vanishes as soon as the oil pressure increases then you could have either excessive bearing clearance at a rod and/or main bearing or an oil filter that is allowing the oil in it to drain back into the crankcase which is delaying oil from reaching the bearings for the first couple of seconds which is essentially like starting up the engine with no oil in it as it takes a bit for the oil to refill the filter and galleys before it can reach the bearings. It could be a hydraulic lifter but they generally make more of a ticking or clacking type of noise and take a bit longer to go away...and may even come back at random times. To find the source of these kinds of noises I usually hook up a mechanical oil pressure test gauge, allow the vehicle to sit overnight, then start it up and see how long it takes to build up oil pressure. I then allow the engine to warm up fully [say 30 minutes of idling] and then recheck the oil pressure. If the noise stops as soon as the oil pressure rises then I'd try a genuine Mopar oil filter first to see if that fixes the problem. If the oil pressure drops off to less than 10 psi at a fully warmed up idle and doesn't get much over about 20 psi at 2000 rpm then you may have excessive rod/main bearing wear which would require some more serious work to correct. If the oil pressure stays at about 15 psi at an idle and rises to over 35 psi at 2000 rpm then the bearings are probably in decent shape yet. Hope this helps a bit and good luck!

The oil pressure light or gauge will show that it has low oil pressure and you shouldn't run the engine that way.

Any engine that cannot produce at least 15psi pressure at idle likely has a pressure loss at the crank bearings (most commonly connecting rod bearings) You can check the clearance by using plasti-gage on them once you have the pan removed.
Most times the pump is blamed for the loss of pressure but actually the pump likely has some scoring inside the housing and on the gear ends that has been caused by bearing material getting in there.
If you replace the pump alone, some pressure will be restored but that will go away quickly as more bearing material is ingested.
The pump should be replaced along with the failing bearing shells (actually best to replace all). If main bearings are worn (rare) engine will need to be removed for that service.
Always re-check bearing clearances before re assembling the engine. If any are still out of clearance, you may want to use an oversize bearing there. After checking or replacement, always re-torque anything that was removed.
Clearance specifications can be found in any good manual.

If engine is noisy then you have an actual oil pressure concern.Sending unit only reads the pressure. I would recommend you have an actual oil pressure test done to see what your oil pressure is.You didn't mention what engine you have but rule of thumb is 30 psi at 1500 rpm warm engine.

At idle, at operating temp is there any ticking from top end of engine? Are there any knocking noises brom bottom end?
If no noises, change oil and add some Marvel oil to clean out galleys. If that dosent work, change oil pressure sendingf unit. Also, if you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge, hook it up and take a direct reading. Oil pressure (in any vehicle) at idle should NEVER be less than 15psi. Generally in 4.0 jeep engines it's never less than 30, with a high reading at driving rpm of about 40-60! (but, you did not mention what engine you have)