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Anonymous Posted on Sep 06, 2010

NEED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1984 DODGE 250 CAMPER VAN. CANNOT GET CHARGING SYSTEM TO WORK.

  • 1 more comment 
  • Anonymous Sep 06, 2010

    THANK YOU FOR YOUR PROMPT ASSISTANCE. I HAVE PRINTED OUT THE DIAGRAM AND WILL CHECK IT OUT IN THE MORNING AS THE TEMPS RIGHT NOW IN YUMA IS108 DEGREES AND BEING IN THE DESERT THERE ARE NO TREES HERE SO MY VAN SITS OUT IN THE HOT SUN AND METAL PARTS ARE SO HOT YOU CANNOT TOUCH THEM WITHOUT BURNING YOUR HANDS EVEN UNDER THE HOOD. ROGER WHITE

  • Anonymous Sep 06, 2010

    TY. IN REVIEWING THE WIRING DIAGRAM YOU SENT ME I SEE THAT THERE IS A BALLAST RESISTOR. I SEE WHAT COULD BE THIS UNIT MOUNTED BY THE BATTERY . DO YOU KNOW IF THIS IS THE ONE. IF SO HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT TESTING IT TO SEE IF IT IS GOOD. AND WHAT IS ITS PURPOSE. I HAVE ONLY HAD THIS VAN SINCE JUNE 4TH AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM WORKED FINE THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IT QUIT WORKING. THE TECHS. AT SEARS ARE THE ONE THAT TESTED THE SYSTEM AND DETERMINED THAT THE ALT. WAS AT FAULT. I KNOW NOW THAT THEY WERE WRONG. THEY DID NOT TEST THE ALT. OUTPUT ONLY THE ENTIRE SYSTEM. THANKS ROGER WHITE

  • Anonymous Sep 06, 2010

    THANKS FOR THE REPLY AND INFO. WILL GIVE IT A TRY IN THE MORNING. ROG

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2 Answers

Anonymous

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  • Master 3,489 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 07, 2010
Anonymous
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Shouldn't be too hard. Which engine do you have with which carburettor? I will be happy to send you some diagrams as soon as I know a little more.

ZJ Limited

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  • Dodge Master 17,989 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 06, 2010
ZJ Limited
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Check this diagrams...

NEED WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 1984 - 5c5e95b.jpg

Fig. 19: Body wiring diagram-1979-84 starter circuit


d998aeb.jpg

Fig. 20: Body wiring diagram-1979-84 charging circuit


Hope helps.

  • 1 more comment 
  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Sep 06, 2010

    Your welcome; TY for using Fixya, and keep in touch.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Sep 06, 2010

    This test works under three assumptions:




        The battery is known to be good and fully charged.


        The alternator belt is in good condition and adjusted to the proper tension.


        All connections in the system are clean and tight.



    In order for the current indicator to give a valid reading, the car
    must be equipped with battery cables which are of the same gauge size
    and quality as original equipment battery cables.





        Turn off all electrical components on the car. Make sure the doors
        of the car are closed. If the car is equipped with a clock, disconnect
        the clock by removing the lead wire from the rear of the clock.
        Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery and connect the
        ground wire on a test light to the disconnected positive battery cable.
        Touch the probe end of the test light to the positive battery post. The
        test light should not light. If the test light does light, there is a
        short or open circuit on the car.



        Disconnect the voltage regulator wiring harness connector at the
        voltage regulator. Turn on the ignition key. Connect the wire on a test
        light to a good ground (engine bolt). Touch the probe end of a test
        light to the ignition wire connector into the voltage regulator wiring
        connector. This wire corresponds to the [cf2]I terminal on the
        regulator. If the test light goes on, the charging system warning light
        circuit is complete. If the test light does not come on and the warning
        light on the instrument panel is on, either the resistor wire, which is
        parallel with the warning light, or the wiring to the voltage regulator,
        is defective. If the test light does not come on and the warning light
        is not on, either the bulb is defective or the power supply wire form
        the battery through the ignition switch to the bulb has an open circuit.
        Connect the wiring harness to the regulator.



        Examine the fuse link wire in the wiring harness from the starter
        relay to the alternator. If the insulation on the wire is cracked or
        split, the fuse link may be melted. Connect a test light to the fuse
        link by attaching the ground wire on the test light to an engine bolt
        and touching the probe end of the light to the bottom of the fuse link
        wire where it splices into the alternator output wire. If the bulb in
        the test light does not light, the fuse link is melted.



        Start the engine and place a current indicator on the positive
        battery cable. Turn off all electrical accessories and make sure the
        doors are closed. If the charging system is working properly, the gauge
        will show a draw of less than 5 amps. If the system is not working
        properly, the gauge will show a draw of more than 5 amps. A charge moves
        the needle toward the battery, a draw moves the needle away from the
        battery. Turn the engine off.




        Disconnect the wiring harness from the voltage regulator
        at the regulator at the regulator connector. Connect a male spade
        terminal (solderless connector) to each end of a jumper wire. Insert one
        end of the wire into the wiring harness connector which corresponds to
        the
        A
        terminal on the regulator. Insert the other end of the
        wire into the wiring harness connector which corresponds to the
        F
        terminal on the regulator. Position the connector with the
        jumper wire installed so that it cannot contact any metal surface under
        the hood. Position a current indicator gauge on the positive battery
        cable. Have an assistant start the engine. Observe the reading on the
        current indicator. Have your assistant slowly raise the speed of the
        engine to about 2,000 rpm or until the current indicator needle stops
        moving, whichever comes first. Do not run the engine for more than a
        short period of time in this condition. If the wiring harness connector
        or jumper wire becomes excessively hot during this test, turn off the
        engine and check for a grounded wire in the regulator wiring harness. If
        the current indicator shows a charge of about three amps less than the
        output of the alternator, the alternator is working properly. If the
        previous tests showed a draw, the voltage regulator is defective. If the
        gauge does not show the proper charging rate, the alternator is
        defective.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Sep 06, 2010

    Also, I suggest check the Voltage Regulator (REMOVAL & INSTALLATION)...




        Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery negative terminal.


        Disconnect the alternator output (BAT) and field (FLD) leads, then disconnect the alternator ground wire.


        Remove the alternator mounting bracket bolts and remove the alternator.


        Installation is the reverse of the above. Adjust the alternator
        drive belt tension. Check the alternator and regulator circuits and
        perform any necessary adjustment.




    1970-88 with an Electronic Regulator
    (see Figure 1)






    http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/...">



    Fig. 1: Electronic voltage regulator used on 1970-88 vehicles





        Release the spring clips and pull off the regulator wiring plug.


        Unbolt and remove the regulator.


        Installation is he reverse of removal. Be sure that the spring clips engage the wiring plug.


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