I need to know how to do the timing but i cant get the outer crank shaft pully off is there any markings on the outer pully i could use?

Try this may be this could help
https://big-manuals.com

Set the crank to TDC using the timing marks, Then look for an arrow or a mark on the cam shaft pully and another mark on the block. Line those up. Put the belt on, make sure the marks did not move.

Hi Jan, The timing marks are as follows. The cam gear has a hole drilled through and this must be lined up with a punch mark on the cam bearing cap behind it. We find a flash light and a mirror are good tools to use. The crank shaft is on the oil pump housing and slightly raised. It is past TDC and lined with a notch in the crank pulley.Regards John

okay first you make sure the timing marks on the pullys or gears are lineing up also you find #1 cylinder pull out spark plug place a long phillips head scew driver into the hole turn the main crank it should rise and fall get the lower part of the engine to where the scew driver stops rising and right before it falls you should be at top dead center on the lower part of the engine. turn the cam shaft till the timing mark on the pully or gear is at top dead center (TDC). but you should have timing marks on the crank shaft pully and the cam shaft gear or pully I recomend a chiltons or haynes manual so you can locate these marks.

One is on the crank shaft pully (for TDC). It is a line, scribed on the pully, that alligns to a pointer on the plastic timing belt cover. The second is on the cam shaft pully. It can be accessed by removing the rubber inspection plug on the timing belt cover. The third is on the auxillary shaft (oil pump) and is also accessed through an inspection plug on the timing belt cover.

On the cam and oil pump pullies, the diamond aligns to the diamond and the triangle aligns to the triangle (the pullies have both). These should be perfectly aligned when the crankshaft pully line is at 0 deg TDC. If you can't see the marks through the inspection port while the crank is at 0 TDC, you are 180 degrees out - turn the crank one more time. 

its tricky enough if your not sure what your doing but ill run you through it. 1. remove top rocker cover and timing belt cover. 2 make up the position of the pully on the cam shaft at the top and the drive shaft at the bottom, this marks are you fail safe incase you cant time the engine. 3 remove the timing belt and pully tentioner, note if your going this far you are as well to replace the timing belt,tentioner and water pump. 4 On the cam shaft at the top if you force them to turn you will see a small indicator mark on the shaft this mark has to line up with the other indicator mark on the housing between the cam shaft and the cam shaft pully, once they line up your top end is timed, mark up the pully incase it moves. 5 on the drive shaft pully there is also markings that have to line up but you can also feel the position of the pully as you turn it, you will feel the piston been forced up and it is timed at top dead centre on cylinder one, which means the the piston has to be at the top just before the point of returning back down, using your feeling as a guide and the markings lined up you will have timing. also mark up this pully, your new marking should be very very close to the fail safe markings you put on at the start. when you have your marking replace the timing belt with the longest distance between pully contact going on first, try not disturb your timing or your hard work will have been for nothing, make sure the tentioner on the belt is tight but not to tight to the point where you ll stretch the belt or snap it, put everything back as you found it and crank the engine, job done, best of luck. hope this helps( rate me on my answer thanks )

The timing marks are as follows
1. there is a "V" on the cylinder head cover.
2. Timing mark on camshaft timing belt gear
3. "Arrow mark" oil pump case
4. Punch mark on crankshaft gear.
DON'T MESS UP! THIS IS AN INTERFERENCE FIT ENGINE! IT WILL BEND VALVES!

there is a small mark on the cam pully that must point strait down to the mark on the crank shaft timing pully. the mark on the crank pully is a bit hard to see but it is a low spot on the inside area. also lines up with the keyway grove in the pully.

there are 3 thing need to be fixed first the top timing belt pully should be between o.t so should be on . between o.t and secondremove the distrubuter cap it should be one mark 1 which is pointing on block and 3rd is crank shaft should adjust on 0 which you will find on the gearbox there is a green ruber cap remoce it and turn the main crank shaft u will find mark on the frywheel 0.
Thats it

The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.