I have a 1999 LX470 and live in Cabo san Lucas (no parts here)and the rubber boots on the upper & lower ball joints are cracked , but the ball; joints are fine. Need just a boot replacement-PLEASE HELP CaboMike

Torque settings Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!
Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.
Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened.

The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively brittle.

Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.
Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt.
Bolt Size 8.8 10.9 12.9 A2-70 (Stainless) 6mm (M6) 9Nm 13Nm 14Nm 7Nm 8mm (M8) 23Nm 33Nm 40Nm 17Nm 10mm (M10) 45Nm 65Nm 70Nm 33Nm 12mm (M12) 80Nm 115Nm 125Nm 57Nm 14mm (M14) 125Nm 180Nm 195Nm 16mm (M16) 195Nm 280Nm 290Nm Note than when fitting bolts into Ally threads like rivnuts, manifolds and S1 uprights then the torque may need to be reduced.

Special note for Mr. Wiki - This is the thread size, not the head size.
Engine mount torque settings (K-Series) Nm RH engine mounting bracket to engine RH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting RH engine rubber mounting to chassis RH engine steady arm bolts LH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting LH engine mounting bracket to engine Lower steady arm bracket to sump Lower steady arm bolts Use Permabond A130(A912E7033V) on the sump end bolt on the lower steady arm
Front suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper swivel joint to steering arm Lower swivel joint to plinth Steering arm to hub carrier Track rod end to steering arm Damper to lower wishbone Damper to top anchor bracket Damper anchor bracket to chassis Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Brake caliper to hub carrier Anti-roll bar rubber bush mounting clamps Anti-roll bar drop links Rear suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper and lower swivel joint ball pins Upper swivel joint plinth to hub carrier Toe-link outer ball joint to hub carrier* Toe-link inner ball joint/wishbone to sub frame** Toe link ball joint lock nuts Damper to lower wishbone Damper to chassis Upper brake caliper to hub carrier (M10) Lower brake caliper to hub carrier (M8) Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Rear hub nut ,*Check batch number of ball joint is 43273 or later
,**Check batch number of ball joint is 43725 or later

I guess you never used You Tube Video

After Googling your automotive questions,
you go to you tube

You replace the upper control arm with the joint,
on most ford products,only the lower ball joints
can be pressed out & replaced

If your doing the upper joint, do both sides & if
you have to do the uppers, the bottoms are shot
a long time ago,so do all 4 & both wheel hub bearings
if they have a 100,000 on them

Correct. Replace them all at the same time as you will need to track steering after replacing ball joints. Check rubber anti roll bushings when your at it,

Always use original parts instead of aftermarket products.Original parts cost bit extra,but they are exact fit and last longer.Click this link below to troubleshoot the issue :----Upper Ball Joints inspection and replacement? http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/upper-ball-joints-inspection-and.html How to Test Upper and Lower Ball Joint? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-test-lower-ball-joint.html How to inspect Upper and Lower Ball joint? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-inspect-lower-ball-joint.html How to Service Ball Joints on Car? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-service-lower-ball-joints-on-car.html How to Replace Ball joints? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/how-to-replace-lower-ball-joints.html Lower Ball Joints replacing on car? http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/lower-ball-joints-replacing-on.html
---------This will help.Thanks.

1000 dollars for this simple job ?' you joking or what ,parts are not that expensive but its the tools you need to change them and the time alsoi its a dirty job at the best of times ,grease boots -- now do you mean the drive shaft rubber boot or the ball joint rubber boot ,anyway the ball joints are rivited on so you cut the rivits off with a hammer and chisel then bolt the new ball joint in ,not difficult but the drive coupling boots are a bit more difficult and require circlip pliers and a lot of patience

take a good hard look at the front cv-axle there is a rubber boot that has grease in it if its cracked you will have grease leaking from it more common the grease will end up on the inside of the rim and wheel well. if that boot is not cracked then the ball joint was filled with to much grease and the old grease was forced out most of the time it tears the rubber boot that protects and keeps the grease in, now you can wipe off the grease and it should be fine for a few years or so.

It has two,lower ball joints,one on each side.

It's not required to change the upper and the lower at the same time. However it will save you time if you do them both as if one is going out the other will soon.
The actual job is not that difficult but you may need a pickle fork or a ball joint removal tool to disconnect the ball joints from the steering knuckle. You will also need a ball joint press to remove/install the ball joints. You may also need a strut spring compressor. You can rent these at an auto parts store.
Basically you have to do the following -loosen lug nuts -jack the vehicle up and place on jack stands -remove wheel -remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut -remove lower ball joint cotter pin and nut -with pickle fork/ball joint removal tool remove both upper and lower ball joints from steering knuckle -disconnect tie rod end from knuckle (optional depending on clearance) -disconnect strut (be sure to install strut spring compressors) -with ball joint press you will need to press both ball joints out (you also use the press to install ball joints)
Installation is reverse of removal.
For exact instructions you can buy the manual for about $20 or go to autozone.com, register, and view the manual on their site for free.

The upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and the lower ball joint is an integral part of the spindle.

The upper ball joints are part of the upper control arms. The upper control arms have to be replaced.