How do I position a hydraulic floor jack to lift the front of a 1992 Oldsmobile 88 so I can put on jack stands?

Presume it a hydraulic jack. Most are sealed, some of the more expensive types will have a valve, usually hidden somewhere.
But what you need to look for first is where it is leaking from.
If it has lost fluid chances are one of the seals have blown.

You really need the car on a lift or tall jack stands to do this. You will need a full set of hand tools, a good hydraulic floor jack, a set of Jack stands (AKA Safety Stands) and a 1.5 Ton bottle jack. Raise the front of the car as high as possible and unbolt the old mounts from the engine and engine cradle, then Carefully using the bottle jack (put a piece of wood on the plunger of the jack to avoid damage to the oil pan) raise the engine off the mounts and remove them, and reverse install new mounts, time about 2-3 hours to do the repair.

Front wheel drive or rear wheel drive ? You need a good jack , a floor jack would be best . Do you have Jack stands an a floor jack ? You need to get it up in the air a little so you can get under it . You will need to put the jack under the transmission an jack it up just enough to take the pressure off the mount . Un bolt the old one , put the new one in bolt it an torque it to spec.

place the trolley jack under the front cross member . (The big bit that connects the side frames under the sump). Lift as high as possible and place the jack stands under the chassis ( moulded rails ) where the sub-frame meets . Then place the trolley jack under the rear diff and lift as high as possible Place the jack stands under the chassis at the front of the springs or track rods By using these positions you will have the cabin securely jacked up with all the wheels free to remove or to work on. Before going under try rocking the vehicle hard to ensure that it will not move off the stands.

first, I would use jack on one side of car then put it on jack stands, then go and jack other side up and put it on jack stands, just the way I would do it

1. Park the Dodge on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Put two wedges of wood in front of your front wheels and two behind them.
   
2. Put the jack under the back frame of the car and lift it up until the wheels are off the ground. Slide the two jack stands underneath the car right under the axles, one next to each wheel. Use the jack to lower the car onto the two jack stands.
   
3. Loosen the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench, and remove the lug nuts and the two back wheels.
   
4. Look for two bolts that are attached to the caliper. Remove them with the adjustable wrench. Lift up the caliper and set it on the axle, taking care not to let it fall and break.
   
5. Compress the brake pads which, in turn, will compress the underlying piston. If they won't budge, use a C-clamp to compress them.
   
6. Open the spring clips by prying with a screwdriver and take off the pads. And if the pads are stuck you can pry them off with the screwdriver as well.
   
7. Rub a little bit of silicone grease onto the back of each new pad and put the pads in the correct position. Put the spring clips back in place to hold the pads in place.
   
8. Put the caliper back in place and tighten the bolts.
   
9. Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts. Lift up the car a little with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the Dodge all the way to the ground. Retighten the lug nuts.
   
10. Lift up the hood and look for the master cylinder's brake fluid container on the driver's side of the car, closest to the driver. Top off the brake fluid, if needed.
    

You will need the following

• 4 wood wedges
• Lug wrench
• Floor jack
• 2 jack stands
• Adjustable wrench
• C-clamp (optional)
• Flathead screwdriver
• New brake pads
• Silicone grease

Lifting

The following instructions must be carried out before raising the vehicle off the ground.

• Use a solid level ground surface.
• Apply hand brake.
• Select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector.

Note: If the propeller shafts are to be removed, reference must be made to the relevant operation. To avoid damage occurring to the under body components of the vehicle the following jacking procedures must be adhered to.

DO NOT POSITION JACKS OR AXLE STANDS UNDER THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS:

• Body structure other than approved jacking points
• Bumpers
• Fuel lines
• Fuel tank
• Brake lines
• Front or rear suspension arms
• Transfer box
• Steering linkage
• Front or rear differential units
• Engine sump
• Automatic gearbox

NOTE: For certain repair operations, it may be necessary to support the engine under the sump. In this case, a block of hardwood or a rubber block should be positioned on the jack lifting cup to protect sump. Vehicle jack
The jack provided with the vehicle is only intended for use in an emergency, for changing a tyre. DO NOT use the jack for any other purpose. Refer to Owner's Handbook for vehicle jack location points and procedure. Never work under a vehicle supported solely by the vehicle jack.

Hydraulic jack
A hydraulic jack with a minimum 1500 kg, (3,300 lbs) load capacity must be used.

WARNING: Do not commence work on the underside of the vehicle until suitable axle stands have been placed in their correct position. Always chock the wheels when jacking. The handbrake may be ineffective when the wheels are off the ground. Raising and supporting the vehicle
To assist in raising the vehicle, jacking points are provided as shown in the following illustrations.

Raising the front of the vehicle
Apply handbrake, select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector and chock rear wheels.
Axle stand positions - front

Raise vehicle to enable axle stands to be positioned under, either, the front sub-frame, or the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging the body / component. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox.
Carefully lower jack until vehicle sits securely on axle stands.

WARNING: Always support the vehicle on axle stands when using a jack.
Before commencing work on underside of vehicle re-check security of vehicle on stands.

Reverse procedure when removing vehicle from stands.

Raising the rear of the vehicle
Select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector and chock front wheels.

WARNING: Always chock the front wheels when jacking the rear of the vehicle.
Axle stand positions - rear

Raise rear of vehicle to enable axle stands to be positioned under the rear sub-frame. Alternatively, the axle stands may be positioned under, either, the recommended customer jacking points or the front mounting points of the rear sub-frame.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging the body / component. If any damage occurs to the washers on the front mounting points of the rear sub-frame, then the washers must be replaced. Carefully lower jack until vehicle sits securely on axle stands.

WARNING: Always support the vehicle on axle stands when using a jack. Before commencing work on underside of vehicle re-check security of vehicle on stands.

Reverse procedure when removing vehicle from stands.

Wheel-free lift
The following warning must be read before attempting to lift the vehicle.

WARNING: The vehicle cannot be supported safely in a wheel-free condition using the wheel-free facility of a four post ramp, and under no circumstances must this method be employedA wheel free condition may only be achieved on a four post ramp by raising each end of the vehicle and positioning axle stands beneath the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging any components. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox. WARNING: The front and rear suspension lower arms must NOT be used as lifting / jacking points. Alternatively, support the vehicle on an approved two post lift with the arms of the lift beneath the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between the lifting equipment and the jacking points to avoid damaging any components. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox.

I would use floor jacks and jack it up from the back as high as it will go and then set jack stands under it. Its front will drive so you dont have to worry about it rolling just make sure its in park and if its standard make sure its in gear. Be good to block the front wheels also.

hi, i always recommend using a lift kit for safety but, you can use a hydraulic floor jack to lift as well. they are really strong and sturdy. i would recommend using one hydraulic floor jack on each axle.

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u can vist auto zone .com for more info here to help Shaun

Before any service is performed, carefully check the following:

• Be sure the vehicle is properly centered and secured on stands or a hoist.
• If the vehicle has antilock brakes, depressurize the system according to the procedures given in the service manual.
• Disconnect the battery ground cable.
• Front brake pad replacement begins with removing brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. If this is not done, the fluid could overflow and spill when the pistons are forced back into the caliper bore, possibly damaging the painted surfaces.
• Replace the cover.
• Discard old brake fluid.

• Raise the car. Make sure it is safely positioned on the lift.
• If you don't have a lift, use a jack and jack stands.
• A handle on the jack is moved up and down to raise part of a vehicle and a valve is turned to release the hydraulic pressure in the jack to lower the part. At the end of the jack is a lifting pad.
• The pad must be positioned under an area of the vehicle's frame or at one of the manufacturer's recommended lift points.
• Never place the pad under the floorpan or under steering and suspension components, because they can easily be damaged by the weight of the vehicle.
• Always position the jack so that the wheels of the vehicle can roll as the vehicle is being raised.
• Never use a lift or jack to move something heavier than it is designed for. Always check the rating before using a lift or jack. If a jack is rated for 2 tons, do not attempt to use it for a job that requires a 5-ton jack. It is dangerous for you and the vehicle.
• Safety stands, also called jack stands, are supports of various heights that sit on the floor. They are placed under a sturdy chassis member, such as the frame or axle housing, to support the vehicle.
• Once the safety stands are in position, the hydraulic pressure in the jack should be slowly released until the weight of the vehicle is on the stands. Like jacks, jack stands also have a capacity rating. Always use the correct rating of jack stand.
• Never move under a vehicle when it is supported by only a hydraulic jack. Rest the vehicle on the safety stands before moving under the vehicle.
• The jack should be removed after the jack stands are set in place.
• This eliminates a hazard, such as a jack handle sticking out into a walkway. A jack handle that is bumped or kicked can cause a tripping accident or cause the vehicle to fall.
• If you use support stands on asphalt, put a piece of thick plywood or a steel plate under the stands.
• Remove its wheel assemblies.

• Inspect the brake assembly.
• Look for signs of fluid leaks, broken or cracked lines, or a damaged break rotor. If a problem is found, correct it before installing the new brake pads.

• Loosen the bolts and remove the pad locator pins.
• During servicing, grease, oil, brake fluid, or any other foreign material must be kept off the brake linings, caliper, surfaces of the disc, and external surfaces of the hub. Handle the brake disc and caliper in such a way as to avoid deformation of the disc and nicking or scratching of the brake linings.
  
  
  
• Lift and rotate the caliper assembly from the rotor.

• Remove the brake pads from the caliper assembly.

• Fasten a piece of wire to the car's frame and support the caliper with the wire.
• When a hydraulic hose is disconnected, plug it to prevent any foreign material from entering.

• Check the condition of the locating pin insulators and sleeves.

Art courtesy of Delmar - Thomson Learning.

• Place a piece of wood over the caliper's piston and install a C-clamp over the wood and caliper.
• Tighten the clamp to force the piston back into its bore.