Rear brakes drum 2003 ford winstar. Brakes were put together & they spin freely when its just the drum but when the tire is put on it makes the wheels turn very tough if @ all?

The reason is, you have a rear anti lock brake system. The anti lock valve is located on the frame just underneath the brake master. It is called a RABS valve. Almost impossible to bleed. But it can be done. A dealer has a tool that plugs into the RABS valve which activates the valve constantly moving the valve back and forth. This will then push all fluid and air out of your open bleeder screws in the rear.
I did'nt go to the dealer. i was too stubborn. My solution was to lift the rear of the truck and place on jack stands. Pinch off the rubber brake hoses on the 2 front brakes with a C-clamp or non marring vise grips, this will keep all fluid from going to front brakes. Next adjust the rear brake shoes by tightening the adjuster on the rear brake drums. Tighten the brakes on the rear until the brakes start to drag and the tires no longer spin freely by hand. Attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder screw on the RABS valve, place open end of hose into a jar or canister of brake fluid, so as not to draw in any air. Open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear tires spin. (I got up to 25mph on my speedometer) Step on the brake while it is in gear and the tires are spinning. This will activate the RABS valve and cause the air in the RABS valve to bleed. Do this several times. Put vehicle in park, shut off engine, and close the bleeder on the RABS valve. Attach bleeder hose to right rear of the truck, place open end of hose in a canister or jar of brake fluid so no air gets in and open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear wheels spin freely. As the wheels spin, you press your foot on the brake pedal, this will activate the RABS valve, and effectively bleed the brakes. Do this a dozen or so times, tighten the bleeder screw and do the other side. Remove clamps from front brake hoses and you will be go to go. All this may seem a bit extreme, but it is the only effective way to bleed a Rear Anti Lock Brake System on an early Ford. All the steps I laid out are necessary. You cannot skip one. The reason why the rear has to be in the air, is that there is a sensor mounted to the rear differential that senses wheel spin(or axle spin), this goes directly to the RABS valve and tells it that the tires are moving at a certain speed, and to activate the Rear Anti Lock Brakes when the brake pedal is depressed. It will not activate if it does not sense movement. The reason for pinching off the front brake lines, is that there are needle valves in the master cylinder and they will send too much fluid to the front calipers, and stifle or hinder the amount of fluid needed to go to the rabs valve and ultimately the rear wheel cylinders. It seems like a lot, and it is, but I did it and it works. Good luck

Then you have the parts together wrong

You didn't do both side the same,better do that,
& see how the other side is assembled

Take the lug bolts and try putting the broad side against the drum without the tire rim. It sounds like the rear brakes are adjusted too tight. Also check the emergency brakes which may have to be adjusted looser now that the linings are new and thicker.
If you can run the lugnuts against the drum with the broadside hitting the drum you will duplicate what is happening with the tire rim. You will be able to see better and can adjust the brakes without the tire in the way.

due to some reasons the rim is out of shape. so change the rim and then try using the brakes

is the noise is constant when you are driving is a bearing , is the noise is when you brake, check the brakes..jack the car and spin the tire you will here the noise ..hope this was very helpful..

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM I'VE BEEN DOING A LOT OF RESEARCH ON IT AND I THINK ITS GONNA BE THE BUSHINGS IN THE REAR KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY AND YOUR HAVE TO CHANGE THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY. I HAVEN'T TRIED IT YET BUT IF YOU CHECK BACK IN A COUPLE DAYS I WILL LET YOU KNOW

with a small flat head screw driver at the back of brakes there should be a adjusment nut turn one and half turns and it should bring in the shoes if the drum to loose turn it the other way the drum shold just slide on when the drum is on try spinning the drum if spins freely adjust untill you feel binding and just slacking off a bit

What do you mean lub'm? You just put brake grease where ever there is friction. Not on the brake shoes or pads, not on the brake drum! I'm assuming you have brake drums on the rear. Just put grease where ever there is metal on metal so the brakes move freely. Keep the grease off the brakes and drum, you can put some grease on the brackets or metal on the brakes but not on the stopping surface of the brake.