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2004 Chevy tracker..battery goes dead after 30 min of driving..charging system shows 13.2 at idle..but when driving charging system drops to around 10 bolts.....please help...thanks

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GET A NEW ALTERNATOR

Posted on May 23, 2019

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Regulator acting up.need new altinator.should be charging between 13.9 to 14.2 volts

Posted on May 23, 2019

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 832 Answers

I saw that happen before on an alternator I just bought from an electric shop. I took it back after I found out it was defective. The person in the electric shop took it apart and found / said nothing's wrong and left it on the bench, waiting for me for my next move. I asked to let me have a look at it. I found the wires connection to the slip rings (where the brushes ride or commute), this soldered connection had become unsoldered and the rotation centrifugal force pulled the wires loosing contact to the rings. I showed this to the tech person there and they applied solder and problem solved. I know electricity and equipment

Posted on May 23, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2004 dodge durango engine shuts off while driving

I had this happen to me before. My battery had went out and I had put another in (didn't buy a new one-- it was holiday). It did this exact thing to me. The scary part is once, it was on the interstate going about 75 mph... didn't die but all gauges went to nothing. It turned out that the battery I was using didn't have enough cold cranking amps and was pulling down the alternator too much so the computer shut it down. The one time it didn't... it was because the RPH's were too high. Try checking the battery and alternator... make sure you have the right battery and have an alternator shop test your alternator if the battery is good.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: battery goes dead on 2004 pacifica

There is obviously a draw from somewhere, and if your dealer doesn't have a mechanic who knows how to narrow it down to the circuit causing the problem, then I'd question there ability. With that said, when all else fails, you simply remove negative connection off battery first, then positive. Take a 12 volt test light & secure one end to the + clamp or connector, and the other end to the battery+ post. Now connect your negative back up to the battery as it was. If that test light, lights up, there is a draw. It will be brighter, the more draw there is. Your going to have some, just from your radio memory alone, but now comes the fun part. All you do is pull the fuses one at a time, if light goes out, or dim's you've found a draw. When you have a real hard one to narrow down, you make sure you know where they all go back to, whether by your map at fuse box, or your own notes, and you pull them all out, and light should go out for sure, if not, there is another circuit or panel, or relay drawing the current. If it goes out, you start putting them back in one at a time, and when the light comes back on bright, you found the circuit. Mark that one down, pull the fuse back out, light off, now do the rest that you haven't checked yet, just to see if there is more than one draw causing the problem, if there is, mark it down, pull it out & continue on until all done. Now you/they narrowed it down or isolated the circuit causing the problem.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

SOURCE: Idles rough upon start , goes dead when letting up on gas.

If the bat went dead and was disconnected it can take 25 to 50 miles of driving for computer to reset sensors and controls. Sounds like MAF Sensor maybe reading different than when it was first driven. Did you drastically change climates or altitudes, New readings from when it originally was put into service. Slight changes in temp, alt and other variables gradually reset, if driving does not improve within 50 miles it will need diagnostics.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

bbbman78
  • 681 Answers

SOURCE: 84 chevy 4 wheel drive auto hub removial

Remove the outer hub, (MANUAL OR AUTOLOCKING?) Check for a large snap ring. Insert two of the screws back in a few turns and slide the center out. Remove the large nut. Usually another snap ring, and then another large nut. (Caliper and wheel first).

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

  • 1757 Answers

SOURCE: need to remove the serpentine and drive belts on a

My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.

I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.

CLICK
on the following LINK. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific engine and options (AC/No AC, Power Steering, .etc) that you will need.

Regarding HOW:
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See the Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys
.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.

b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right etc.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum ("open") allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. While keeping the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "open" Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
As you can see in the last Diagram on this Link: there are three (3) Bolts for the FAN Belt that must be loosened inorder to successfully remove this Belt

Let me know if this helped...
Again my apologies..

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2004/make/chevrolet/model/tracker/2004_chevrolet_tracker_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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2 Answers

Jeep wont charge


wow no year stated, nor car. a willis jeep> 1945?
in 1945 it has no Alternator !
General answer , for all cars:
dead parked, or dead moving ?
no person can help lacking that critical fact,
sounds to me like, impossible question !
if it goes dead moving the alternator /gen system is failing.
if the battery goes dead parked, that means you have phantom drain.

we can find out which it is , with a $10 DMM meter at walmart
$20 is a better buy.

so if it drains over night check for lamps stuck on.(aka. dark current)
if drain driving, then.
check for 13.3 to 15vdc, running, engine.
if low, the alternator system (charge) is failing
at no time did i say any part was bad or to buy them. (i never do until i do tests)
drains here.
http://www.fixkick.com/drain/drain.html
works on all cars.

moving dead.:
there are other rare causes..
like the engine will not idle at 800 rpm or more.
see this, the alternator goes off line below that much.
and can drain a battery fast deep in the city at infinite red lights
and traffic jams.
that is why getting a car with hands on service by a real ASE
tech, works best , he /she sees all this in 5 min flat.
saving all this grief.
like , oh crud, it idles a 500! (that be it)
or charge lamp is on?

the old jeeps love to kill batteries, with old DC generators. (ask)
oh my, the OBD2 scan tool says my ALternator is off line.
or other DTC errors, about power lost to many places.
use a scan tool if car is newer.


this car?
http://barrettjackson.com/staging/carlist/items/Fullsize/Cars/96748/96748_Rear_3-4_Web.JPG

sad the owner can't tell year or model.

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1 Answer

Reset security system on a 2004 cheve


-get battery charger, procedure will make car go dead.
-turn on ignition w engine off
-attempted to start then release to on
-after 10 mins sec light should turn off
-turn off wait about 5 sec
-repeat steps 2 more times for 3 cycles/30 mins
-last step off to crank (i would hook up cables to another car before i did last step so that the dead battery had more then enough juice to start, if battery still kinds dead and doesnt start u have to do procedure all over again.
-if u have the money u can just take car to dealer and have them do a scanner that'll reprogram system

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1 Answer

2003 fuse 13 draw battery goes dead. fuse is marked clock backup 7.5a


Possible is the clock. The battery might not hold charge.
-How long you have this battery...?
-Each battery's life is last Only 5 Years.
-Here is a sample test:
Let the engine run for about 15 min, turn it off. Disconnect both battery's cables and hook up a voltmeter to it.
How many volt you first test. and then wait for 10-30 min and test again to see how much you get.
If it's lower than first test then the battery doesn't hold charge.
Time to get new one.


mai

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Driving and electric equipment starting dropping out(windows etc.) then vehicle dies going down the street. Lights start flashing inside and something clicking under dash. 10 minutes later dead. Jumped...


new batt if it is over 3 yrs old-needs to always be at 12.6 v--its not holding charge well--have it load tested--probly only gettn a surface charge onit-it will fool u

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I think I have an alternator problem? The charge needle on the dash guage is spiking to 16 volts off and on. I put a voltmeter to the battery and it is only charged to about 11 volts. With the engine...


Hello
The normal charge of alternator on idling is about 13 to 14 volts. 12 is acceptable but keep in mind it will need attention soon. The needle fluctuates due to the revs of the alternator - there is nothing to worry about. Just look that the charge is always above 12V on idle.

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1 Answer

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Idle air control valve is usually the problem when you have no drivability issues and no codes other than an idle issue., Clean the throttle body. this may help but if it doesnt you will need to swap the IAC out.

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Alternator is not charging, have system checked at a local Autozone or Kragens for free. then you can purchase necessary replacement parts at the same time..

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REPLACED BATTERY IN 2004 GMC ENVOY. NOW GOES DEAD


It sounds like you have a charging system problem. When you turn on the A/C the alt is not keeping up with the required ampre. I hope this helps.
Thank You,
Roy

Aug 04, 2009 | 2004 GMC Envoy

2 Answers

98 tahoe wont hold charge


Sounds like you have a bare wire somewhere that is touching metal and grounding out. Probably a starter cable. Try unhooking the battery, check the voltage of the battery, then hook the cable back up, watching for sparks from the cable. After you get it hooked back up, check the voltage again. If you see a small spark, it is normal. If you see a big spark, you have a wire that is touching something it is not supposed to.

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