Regulator acting up.need new altinator.should be charging between 13.9 to 14.2 volts
I saw that happen before on an alternator I just bought from an electric shop. I took it back after I found out it was defective. The person in the electric shop took it apart and found / said nothing's wrong and left it on the bench, waiting for me for my next move. I asked to let me have a look at it. I found the wires connection to the slip rings (where the brushes ride or commute), this soldered connection had become unsoldered and the rotation centrifugal force pulled the wires loosing contact to the rings. I showed this to the tech person there and they applied solder and problem solved. I know electricity and equipment
SOURCE: 2004 dodge durango engine shuts off while driving
I had this happen to me before. My battery had went out and I had put another in (didn't buy a new one-- it was holiday). It did this exact thing to me. The scary part is once, it was on the interstate going about 75 mph... didn't die but all gauges went to nothing. It turned out that the battery I was using didn't have enough cold cranking amps and was pulling down the alternator too much so the computer shut it down. The one time it didn't... it was because the RPH's were too high. Try checking the battery and alternator... make sure you have the right battery and have an alternator shop test your alternator if the battery is good.
SOURCE: battery goes dead on 2004 pacifica
There is obviously a draw from somewhere, and if your dealer doesn't have a mechanic who knows how to narrow it down to the circuit causing the problem, then I'd question there ability. With that said, when all else fails, you simply remove negative connection off battery first, then positive. Take a 12 volt test light & secure one end to the + clamp or connector, and the other end to the battery+ post. Now connect your negative back up to the battery as it was. If that test light, lights up, there is a draw. It will be brighter, the more draw there is. Your going to have some, just from your radio memory alone, but now comes the fun part. All you do is pull the fuses one at a time, if light goes out, or dim's you've found a draw. When you have a real hard one to narrow down, you make sure you know where they all go back to, whether by your map at fuse box, or your own notes, and you pull them all out, and light should go out for sure, if not, there is another circuit or panel, or relay drawing the current. If it goes out, you start putting them back in one at a time, and when the light comes back on bright, you found the circuit. Mark that one down, pull the fuse back out, light off, now do the rest that you haven't checked yet, just to see if there is more than one draw causing the problem, if there is, mark it down, pull it out & continue on until all done. Now you/they narrowed it down or isolated the circuit causing the problem.
SOURCE: Idles rough upon start , goes dead when letting up on gas.
If the bat went dead and was disconnected it can take 25 to 50 miles of driving for computer to reset sensors and controls. Sounds like MAF Sensor maybe reading different than when it was first driven. Did you drastically change climates or altitudes, New readings from when it originally was put into service. Slight changes in temp, alt and other variables gradually reset, if driving does not improve within 50 miles it will need diagnostics.
SOURCE: 84 chevy 4 wheel drive auto hub removial
Remove the outer hub, (MANUAL OR AUTOLOCKING?) Check for a large snap ring. Insert two of the screws back in a few turns and slide the center out. Remove the large nut. Usually another snap ring, and then another large nut. (Caliper and wheel first).
SOURCE: need to remove the serpentine and drive belts on a
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
CLICK on the following LINK. It has several Belt Diagrams, one which will match your specific engine and options (AC/No AC, Power Steering, .etc) that you will need.
Regarding HOW:
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See the Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right etc.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum ("open") allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. While keeping the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "open" Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
As you can see in the last Diagram on this Link: there are three (3) Bolts for the FAN Belt that must be loosened inorder to successfully remove this Belt
Let me know if this helped...
Again my apologies..
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/2004/make/chevrolet/model/tracker/2004_chevrolet_tracker_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
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