Removing neutral safety switch

If you have the C5 trans, here is the info:

C5 Transmission

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
   
3. Remove the downshift linkage rod from the transmission downshift lever.
   
4. Apply rust penetrant to the outer lever attaching nut to prevent breaking the inner lever shaft. Remove the transmission downshift outer lever attaching nut and lever.
   
5. Remove the two neutral start switch retaining bolts.
   
6. Disconnect the multiple wire connector.
   
7. Remove the neutral start switch from the transmission.
   

To install:

1. Install the neutral start switch on the transmission. Install the two retaining bolts.
   
2. Adjust the neutral safety switch following the above procedure.
   
3. Install the outer downshift lever and retaining nut, and tighten the nut. Install the downshift linkage rod with the retaining clips.
   
4. Connect the wire multiple connector. Check the operation of the switch. The engine should start only with the transmission selector lever in N or P.
   

If it is the:
C3 And A4ld Transmissions
It's on the transmission....


// // 0) preLoad.src = ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_ImageArray[i]; } ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_Data.lastIndex = 35; ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_Data.populateLog = theForm.elements['ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_PopulateLog']; ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_Data.treeViewID = 'ctl00$cphLeft$chRepairTreeNav$tvTOC'; ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_Data.name = 'ctl00_cphLeft_chRepairTreeNav_tvTOC_Data'; //]]>

Neutral start switch and its location on the C3 and A4LD transmissions

ya can go to autozone website they have diagrams

1988 Ford Bronco Full Size 5.8 liter V-8 VIN "H"




Hope helps.

The neutral safety switch is located on the side of the transmission and it is usually attached behind the shifter linkage and it is secured with two small bolts that can be loosened up to allow for adjustment of the neutral safety switch.

To adjust the neutral safety switch place the transmission into neutral, (block the tires) there is a notch or and indent marker on the housing of the neutral safety switch that should be lined up with a line on the face of the collar that is around the shifter detent shaft, and if they are not in alignment then loosen the two bolts that secure the neutral safety switch and then turn the neutral safety switch until they are aligned and then tighten the securing bolts to the neutral safety switch, and then test the starter. If the starter fails to engage then either the neutral safety switch is faulty, the neutral safety switch has been by-passed all this time and the by-pass (I will usually find things like a paper clip shoved into the vehicles wire connector with electrical tape around it) has fallen out of the wire connector from the vehicle wiring harness, or the battery just went dead. if you have the neutral safety switch from the old transmission still available try using it to test the neutral safety circuit. I have provided you with an image to help assist you adjust the neutral safety switch.

hotwire the circuit by grounding the FP lead of the DLC connector (located on the back fender apron drivers side) with the ignition switch on. As the fuel pump is normally under control of the PCM, this will mimic a power on signal from the PCM, and you can hear the pump come on.

The neutral safety/back-up light switch is located at the transmission. I am attaching a photo for reference. Hope this helps and best wishes.

First place you need to look is the battery. Make sure it has 12v minimum. Next, check the small wire that goes to the solenoid. With the key turned to "start" it should have 12v there. If not, check the neutral safety switch, usually found on the transmission where the linkage goes into the unit. Generally if it fails you still will have power through it when in neutral but sometimes not. If no power coming into or out from switch, check ignition switch itself, usually on top of steering column under the dash. One Item I don't understand...Spraying wd40 on fusible links shows you what? and how? Links should be checked for voltage at both ends with a volt meter or test light.

check the fuel pump relay this sends the power to the fuel pump,

also has the car been in a smash even a small one if so the car may be fit with a enersher switch that cuts off the fuel circuit.

recommend you by a repair manual from your local parts retailer for the exact locations of these 2 units

Look behind the motor, next to the firewall. There's a vacuum check valve that keeps the air gulp pump from pressurizing the crankcase. Mine was shot; had the same symtoms. Also, make sure that the EGR valve is closing at low idle.

You don't need an engine light to check the codes. First, do a KOEO (key on, engine off), but, let me tell you, when this happened to me (1986 Full size with 302 EFI, multiport injection) NOTHING showed up. No one, not Ford, not emission specialists, nada, knew the vacuum check valve existed.

By the way; are you getting motor oil in the air filter housing?

13726548 #1 cyl is front pass side and count to back 1234 are on pass side.5678 are on driver side.# 5 being front