20 Most Recent 1989 Ford Bronco Questions & Answers

have you checked for ignition fire to the plugs after it dies? chances are the ignition control module is getting hot and shutting off the signal to the ignition coil.

The most common problem?!?!?! FORD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Next time you have occasion to pull the instrument cluster. I suggest you remove that pesky bulb and be done with it! That "anti -lock" system was a joke anyway. Who puts "anti-lock" on the REAR?????????? They really didn't think this through did they! Oh and just one more little pet peeve of mine. ALL FULL SIZE BRONCOS ARE 4X4!!!!!!!!!!!!! AND ALL FULL SIZE TOPS COME OFF TOO!!!!!!!

It may be running a little lean when warm. Try adding an injector cleaner to clean the injectors. Also check for a vacuum leak from a bad hose.

Clean the throttle body. Check the throttle air bypass valve solenoid. Have you tried checking applicable trouble codes, if there are any?

Those Bronco's had funky Brass "guides" if you will. They wear out and you get "Loose" steering wheel. The only way to remedy is to replace them. Had the exact same thing with my 1996. I replaced those brass guides that hold the wheel in place and all was well again.

Ford Bronco 1980 1995 Workshop Service repair manual Download Get wiring diagram here

It sounds like you have mixed your PRIMARY POWER to your starter solenoid (Specifically "S" and "B" leads). My best suggestion would be to either get a REAL shop manual for your ignition switch... or use the FREE wiring diagrams from BBB Industries... Registration is required at BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products THIS simple REVERSAL would allow the starter to crank... but releasing the key would cause it to die... "B" is on full time battery (Coming out of the solenoid) "S" only has battery on it when the IGNITION KEY is in the "START" position Looking at the DRAWINGS Savvy...? Carnac the Magnificent

You might want to research Ford 4x4 Clubs or Bronco Clubs and things like Off-roading publications. Ford use to have performance displays at some Dealerships. There are some specialty shops which can shorten rear axles.and narrow rear ends. One thing to remember is that both the front and rear differentials need matching gear ratios. So whatever you do, think of pairs.

It sounds like the timing is too far advanced or a vacume leak. Spray some carb cleaner around the vacume lines and see if the idle changes.

I saw what you replaced, didn't see any testing? Any applicable trouble codes? Did you use a gage and check proper fuel pressure? My info on that engine size, said 35--45 psi. If the fuel pressure is too high, check the return line. As far as the fuel pressure regulator, do you have vacuum?

First guess is VACUUM leak....second guess is Ignition module fastened to the bottom of the distributor,about 3-4 inches long. This thing can cause crazy things as it is going out. Make sure to use the conductive grease on the backing plate when you swap it out. This keeps it from overheating at the distributor base. don-ohio

13726548 #1 cyl is front pass side and count to back 1234 are on pass side.5678 are on driver side.# 5 being front

Only place you'll find this diagram is in the Shop Manual, or by searching the Internet. The vacuum routing under the dashboard is fairly straightforward, though, and you should be able to trace the existing lines (if you're looking for a leak).

You may want to check your main ground wire from the block to the frame. If your engine is not ground it will cause you issues.

Wheel locks are bad.

You really should have said what times you had problems.. Just saying at times does not help. If the engine is hot and is hard to start you should look at the heat shield between the exhaust and the starter. a hot starter = hard to start. ALSO if your timing is advanced it will cause it to be hard to start. also if your battery is weak.