Need torque specs Brake caliper & Bracket bolts, ball joint-to-spindle nut, ball joint nut, stabilizer bar bracket bolt, axle nut on '02 Ranger xlt 4L 4dr 4x4 off-road

Brake Hose Bracket Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 128 Nm (94 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm Bumper .................... 32 Nm (23 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 165 Nm (121 lb ft)
Shock Absorber to Control Arm Bolts .................... 27 Nm (20 lb ft)
Shock Absorber Upper Nut .................... 11 Nm (100 lb in)
Splash Shield to Steering Knuckle Bolts .................... 26 Nm (19 lb ft)
Stabilizer Bar Bracket to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 33 Nm (24 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Outer Tie Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts .................... 24 Nm (18 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 100 Nm (74 lb ft)
Upper Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 190 Nm (140 lb ft)
Adjuster Tube Clamp Nut .................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Frame Nut .................... 99 Nm (73 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Steering Gear Nut .................... 250 Nm (184 ft. lbs.)
Relay Rod to Re Rod Nut .................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Frame Bracket Nut .................... 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)

Torque settings Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!
Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.
Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened.

The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively brittle.

Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.
Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt.
Bolt Size 8.8 10.9 12.9 A2-70 (Stainless) 6mm (M6) 9Nm 13Nm 14Nm 7Nm 8mm (M8) 23Nm 33Nm 40Nm 17Nm 10mm (M10) 45Nm 65Nm 70Nm 33Nm 12mm (M12) 80Nm 115Nm 125Nm 57Nm 14mm (M14) 125Nm 180Nm 195Nm 16mm (M16) 195Nm 280Nm 290Nm Note than when fitting bolts into Ally threads like rivnuts, manifolds and S1 uprights then the torque may need to be reduced.

Special note for Mr. Wiki - This is the thread size, not the head size.
Engine mount torque settings (K-Series) Nm RH engine mounting bracket to engine RH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting RH engine rubber mounting to chassis RH engine steady arm bolts LH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting LH engine mounting bracket to engine Lower steady arm bracket to sump Lower steady arm bolts Use Permabond A130(A912E7033V) on the sump end bolt on the lower steady arm
Front suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper swivel joint to steering arm Lower swivel joint to plinth Steering arm to hub carrier Track rod end to steering arm Damper to lower wishbone Damper to top anchor bracket Damper anchor bracket to chassis Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Brake caliper to hub carrier Anti-roll bar rubber bush mounting clamps Anti-roll bar drop links Rear suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper and lower swivel joint ball pins Upper swivel joint plinth to hub carrier Toe-link outer ball joint to hub carrier* Toe-link inner ball joint/wishbone to sub frame** Toe link ball joint lock nuts Damper to lower wishbone Damper to chassis Upper brake caliper to hub carrier (M10) Lower brake caliper to hub carrier (M8) Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Rear hub nut ,*Check batch number of ball joint is 43273 or later
,**Check batch number of ball joint is 43725 or later

Torque Specifications

Description Nm lb-ft Axle-to-frame bolt 66 49 Axle damper-to-frame bolt 34 25 Brake caliper guide pin bolt 33 24 Differential bearing cap bolt 61 45 Differential housing cover bolt 29 21 Ring gear bolt 122 90 Tie-rod nut 91 67 U-joint spider retainer bolt 19 14 Upper ball joint pinch bolt 48 35

replace front axle shaft you need to loosen axle nut with vechicle weight on the wheel just unloosen axle nut dont take axle nut all the way off just loosen it enough first remove hub cap to loosen axle nut.once loosen then raise vechicle remove wheel tire.you need to remove loosen brake caliper bolts just move brake caliper out of way support caliper piece of wire dont have to disconnect brake caliper hose just move it aside let it hang with a piece clothe hanger or piece or cord dont hang caliper by brake hose will damage brake hose.you need to remove brake caliper mounting bracket.go ahead remove axle nut.you have to remove steering knuckle bolts pull steering knuckle out of the strut bracket.you can remove front axle shaft by using large pry bar to the inner cv pry inner cv joint use a little leverage front axle should pop out.when you install new axle shaft push it in place until you hear it snap in place try pull by hand make sure half shaft in place. when done axle nut torque is 191 ft lbs.strut bracket bolts torque at 133 ft lbs.if this is your first time working on vechicle let a garage do the job.but buy the new shaft then take it with you for garage to replace be cheaper take own parts help cut down costs for part just pay for labor.

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Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
   
3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.
   
   Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
   
4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
   NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.
   
   
   Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
   
5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.
   
   Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
   

To install:

1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly
   

Ford Ranger Ball Joints 1993 through 1997Ford Rangers from '93 to '97 2WD have an "I-beam" front suspension as opposed to the upper and lower control arms that most vehicles have. The '93 to '97 4WD Rangers don't have the "I-beams", they have axles. After 1997 Ford got rid to the twin "I-beam" suspension in the Rangers and started using upper and lower control arms.
The ball joints are pressed into the spindle, and the spindle must be removed to replace the ball joints. The ball joints can't be replaced with the spindle in the vehicle. The wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor and tie rod are all attached to the spindle, and all four items must be removed to get the spindle off. Up until the point that the ball joints get removed from the spindle, it's not that hard a job. But getting the ball joints out of the spindle can be difficult, if not impossible unless you know how to do it. But that gets explained in these instructions.

You will need metric sockets, and a breaker bar for this job. Channel lock pliers, diagonal cutting pliers and needle nose pliers are a must, along with a small, flat chisel, a hammer, and a 3 or 5 pound hammer. Buy some anti-seize compound and thread locker along with your new ball joints. I also had to use a 27mm impact socket and a propane torch with mapp gas.
I'd have hand cleaner, paper towels, and a trash bag right with you so you can clean your hands right at the vehicle.
REMOVE THE WHEEL
1. Loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground before you jack the truck up. Just loosen the lug nuts, don't take the lug nuts off before jacking or supporting the truck.
2. Set the emergency brake, and/or chock the wheels. Jack the truck up. Put a jack stand under the frame.
3. Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel. I use the wheel to sit on while doing this job.

REMOVE THE CALIPER
1. Remove the brake caliper by removing the two, 13mm bolts on the back side. After that, I pry the caliper up, from the bottom, first on one side then the other to get it unstuck. Then I set the brake caliper over the torsion or stabilizer bar so it's not hanging from the brake hose.
2. Remove the two 15mm bolts that hold the frame that the caliper bolts to. Note: These bolts have thread locker on them and you should replace the bolts with thread locker. Since this part holds the caliper on, you don't want the bolts coming loose. Take the brake pads out of the bracket. They will probably just fall out later if you don't take them out now.

REMOVE THE ROTOR
1. Now the rotor can be removed by taking off the dust cap and removing the cotterpin, nut, and washer. I use a metal chisel with a hammer to separate the dust cap around the edge. Work little by little around the edge to pop off the cap.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the spindle and take the spindle nut off. You probably don't need a socket to remove this nut. The nut is for the tension on the wheel bearings, and even though your wheel bearings should be tightened quite snug, the nut should not be tightened real hard.
3. Remove the washer, and pull the caliper forward. The outer wheel bearing should slide out a little bit. Take it out. Have plenty of paper towels handy because you will get covered with grease.
4. Pull the rotor off and clean the grease off the spindle. You'll need to get the grease off the spindle because you will be handling the spindle to get the ball joints out.

Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft lb-in Brake caliper bolt 32 24 — Brake disc shield bolt 8 — 71 Fuel tank filler pipe bracket bolt 15 11 — Fuel tank filler pipe hose clamps 3 — 27 Halfshaft nut and washer 275 203 — Lower arm inboard bolt 250 185 — Lower arm outboard bolt 275 203 — Parking brake cable bracket bolt 10 — 89 Shock absorber lower bolt 275 203 — Shock absorber rod nut 65 48 — Shock absorber upper mount nut 30 22 — Stabilizer bar bracket nut 48 35 — Stabilizer bar link nut and grommet 30 22 — Toe link cam adjuster nut 275 203 — Toe link outboard bolt 325 240 — Trailing arm bolt 300 222 — Upper arm outboard bolt 225 166 — Upper arm inboard nut 250 185 — Wheel speed sensor bolt 8 — 71 Wheel knuckle bolt 275 203 —

2001 ford escape. I have done this three times:

Loosen lugs, and spindle nut on axle. Jack up vehicle. Remove tire. Remove brake caliper, pads, bracket, and rotor, secure caliper away from work area. Pull abs sensor connector from tire well, disconnect connector. Remove abs wire from tire well and brake bracket. Remove tie rod from spindle assembly. Remove pinch bolt form lower ball joint. remove nuts from strut bolts. To remove the spindle: 1. Separate ball joint and pull strut bolts 2. pull bolts and pull off ball joint. the second way may not work SAFELY on some vehicles. The axle is removed by two nuts on the intermediate shaft bearing. Pull out axle. Remove alternator and bracket.

Here is the tricky part: the alternator comes out through the hole where the axle was. I found that jacking the front of the motor up helps and position the alternator pulley up, two bolt holes out, fight it from there, careful not to stick the studs from the axle bearing into the case. May take a LITTLE prying. Once you get it it will just drop