Need the brake line diagram from the abs electro-hydraulic control unit for 2005 silverado 2500 hd

Have you checked the connectors in the wiring harnesses for the ABS unit and associated components for water intrusion or corrosion?

The codes that you've posted (details below) all point to a poor electrical connection in the circuit(s) or an open or short in the circuit(s). That could be either due to corrosion, liquid intrusion, a wiring harness rubbing against something hot or something that vibrates and has damaged the wiring.

If the wiring and connections are all intact and there are no opens, shorts to power or shorts to ground, the next think to look at would be the modules and/or sensors to make sure they're operating within spec.

U1003 Possible Causes:
*Faulty Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
*Module Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
*Module harness is open or shorted Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
*Module circuit poor electrical connection

The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets if the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module fails to receive bus messages from the Dynamic Sensor for approximately 150 ms.

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C0020-1c Possible Causes:
*Faulty Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) *Control Module Faulty Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
*Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) harness is open or shorted Hydraulic Control Unit
*(HCU) circuit poor electrical connection

The Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) consists of a valve body, pump motor, and inlet/outlets for the brake lines. The combined HCU and Antilock Brake System (ABS) module is located forward of the master cylinder.

The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module monitors the ABS Pump Motor. The ABS Module sets the OBDII code when the ABS Pump Motor is not to factory specifications.

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U0125 Possible Causes:
*Faulty Dynamics Sensor Dynamics Sensor
*Harness is open or shorted Dynamics
*Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets if the Anti-Lock Brakes System (ABS) Module fails to receive bus messages from the Dynamics Sensor.

First you need to have EBCM - electronic brake control module check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's . If the light is on there is a code stored . I think most part stores can do this and for free . After you find out what code is stored , looking up that code in service repair information for diagnostic trouble shooting chart would be next step . There are a few codes too.
DTC C0035 or C0040
DTC C0045 or C0050
DTC C0110
DTC C0131
DTC C0161
DTC C0186
DTC C0196
DTC C0201
DTC C0240
DTC C0241 or P0856
DTC C0244 or P1689
DTC C0245
DTC C0283
DTC C0287
DTC C0290 or C0292
DTC C0455
DTC C0550
DTC C0558

Find the code do the diagnostic's , fix the problem , wiring issue's , a sensor , bad module ,what ever it is . The light will go out then . Here is a sample of code discription .
• DTC C0035 Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit
• DTC C0040 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit

did you read the FSM book first, or alldata.com pages on how to bleed your ABS system?, some cars require a scanner that can cycle the modulator to bleed out air.
97 626, ill look.
did you remove any parts , up stream of the modulator?
(called the hydraulic unit by mazda)
is the ABS lamp glowing?

here is page on HU swap. (would be worst case)
seems its not special bleeding type. "says "in the usual manor"

1. If necessary, remove the fuel filter and igniter mounting nuts and move them out of the way.
2. Remove the charcoal canister from the vehicle and if the vehicle is equipped with cruise control, remove the cruise control actuator.
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the hydraulic unit. Correct reassembly is critical. Label or identify the lines before removal. Plug each line immediately after removal.
4. Disconnect the electrical harness connectors to the hydraulic unit.
5. Remove the 2 nuts holding the hydraulic unit. Remove the unit upwards.

0.) disconnect battery first.
The hydraulic unit is heavy; use care when removing it. The unit must remain in the upright position at all times and be protected from impact and shock.

1. Set the unit upright supported by blocks on the workbench. The hydraulic unit must not be tilted or turned upside down. No component of the hydraulic unit should be loosened or disassembled.
2. The bracket assemblies may be removed if desired.

To install:

1. Install the brackets if removed.
2. Install the hydraulic unit into the vehicle, keeping it upright at all times.
3. Install the retaining nuts and tighten.
4. Connect the electrical connectors.
5. Connect each brake line to the proper port and double check the placement. Tighten each line to 113-190 inch lbs. (12.9-21.5 Nm).
6. Fill the reservoir to the MAX line with brake fluid.
7. Bleed the master cylinder, then bleed the brake lines.
8. If removed, install the cruise control actuator and the charcoal canister.

just go to any auto parts store and ask them to give you a diagram print out they did it for me.

Brake line diagrams dont exist like wiring diagrams do. If your truck has ABS, that's the ABS controller, and if not it's just the proportioning/metering valve.

There is no seperate pump. The following lines will give you more details

Braking force and the tendency of the wheels to lock up are affected by a combination of factors such as the friction coefficient of the road surface, and the difference between the vehicle speed and the road wheel speed. The ABS prevents the road wheels from locking up during heavy braking by controlling the vehicle's brake system hydraulic pressure.
During normal braking, as the rotational speed of the wheel falls, no electric current flows from the ECU to the hydraulic unit. The solenoid valve is not energized. The brake master cylinder hydraulic pressure is applied to the brake unit, and the ABS is not involved. However, even though the ABS is passive during normal braking, its control module is constantly monitoring for rapid deceleration of any of the wheels.
If a wheel-speed sensor signals severe wheel deceleration - which means the wheel is likely to lock up - the ECU sends a current to the hydraulic unit. This energizes the solenoid valve. The action of the valve isolates the brake circuit from the master cylinder. This stops the braking pressure at that wheel from rising, and keeps it constant.
If the sensors signal the wheel is still decelerating too rapidly, the ECU sends a larger current to the hydraulic unit. The armature moves even further and opens the valve. It opens a passage from the brake circuit. Brake fluid is sent from the brake circuit back to the master cylinder. Pressure in the brake caliper circuit is reduced so that the wheel is braked less heavily.
If the wheel sensors indicate that lowering the brake pressure is letting the wheel accelerate again, the ECU stops sending current to the hydraulic unit and de-energizes the solenoid valve. This lets the pressure increase, so that the wheel is again decelerated.
This cycle repeats itself about four to six times per second.
It is normal in an ABS for the valves in the hydraulic control unit to keep changing position as they change the brake pressure that’s being applied. These changes in position may cause rapid pulsations to be felt through the brake pedal.

I read this same problem all the time, the reason u can't bleed the lines is that a special tool is required that pluge into the ABS and holds the hydraulic valves in the ABS control open for bleeding, there is no way around this.

Hello,
I hope this helps.







Thank You,
Roy

Brake Lines and Hoses
Double-walled steel line is used in the hydraulic lines between the brake master cylinder and the front tube connector, and between the brake master cylinder and the flexible brake hose at the rear wheels.
Double-flared brake lines provide good leak-proof connections.
When replacing hydraulic brake lines, hoses, or connectors, tighten all connections securely. After replacement, bleed the brake system; refer to Section 206-00 .
The wet appearance of the outer cover of the rubber brake hose is referred to as "sweating." This is a normal condition for neoprene rayon braid hose and is not a sign of leakage or cause for replacement of the hose.

Hydraulic Brake System Components — Non-ABS


Item Part Number Description 1 2005 Power Brake Booster 2 2455 Brake Pedal 3 2261 Rear Wheel Cylinder 4 2552 Rear Disc Brake Caliper— (Mexico Only) 5 2B120 Disc Brake Caliper—, Front 6 2B091 Brake Pressure Control Valves 7 2140 Brake Master Cylinder

Your ABS systems use a combination of electronic and hydraulic systems to modulate the brakes individually to prevent them from locking up. ANTILOCK systems consist of wheel speed sensors, a hydraulic control unit (HCU), and an electronic control unit (ECU). Because of how complex the system is your computer does a self-test. If the check is successful, the ANTILOCK and BRAKE lights will go out within a few seconds. If one of the component of the ABS system fails to pass one or both lights will remain lit. One or both warning lights may also come on while driving, also indicating a problem. If just the ANTILOCK warning light comes on, some ABS component has failed, but the car still has hydraulic brakes. The grinding noise could the the ABS pump or your brake pads could to worn to the metal backing and grinding against the brake rotors. I recommend a inspection soon for your safety.