Question about 1997 Hyundai Elantra

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97 elantra moto crank got spark fuel pump not on jump pump its ok check relay ok go 2 start pump not work?

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  • Marvin
    Marvin Jul 13, 2016

    Hi jonathan
    What is the question here?

  • Marvin
    Marvin Jul 13, 2016

    What is the question here?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1995 AUDI 90 CS - Hard to start... spark & fuel OK

Have you tried replacing the starter? I know starters can go bad if the car is not started or run for a long time.

I am getting the same car, with the same issue.. it sat for 2 yrs and won't start.

My mechanic told me it is probably a starter.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

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  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: 97 Avenger will not start!

your coil could have gone out, you could need a new distributor, and your fuel pump could be out. but one thing is the fuses and relays check those as well. there is a relay and fuse for almost anything and that would explain why it all of the sudden happened.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My 2000 Hyundai Accent will nor start it will

you may have a bad crank shaft sensor... they cost about $110.00 and are a pain to put in.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: no spark no fuel no start! replaced and checked

funny thing is I have a 2002 GTI with the exact same problem. have spent the last three days at work trying to figure things out.. best of luckn email me if you figure anything out. Beattie411@gmail.com

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: I have 1997 Toyota T100

If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's maintenance and repair history.

A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.

A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.

Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.

If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.

If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.

ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a bad fuel pump.

On an older engine with a carburetor, pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a bad mechanical fuel pump, stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.

On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.

There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, bad gas might be causing the problem.

On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.

Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive vacuum leak could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.

ENGINE HAS FUEL AND SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
An engine that has fuel and spark, no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression . If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).

Overhead cams can also bind and break if the head warps due to severe overheating, or the cam bearings are starved for lubrication. A cam seizure may occur during a subzero cold start if the oil in the crankcase is too thick and is slow to reach the cam (a good reason for using 5W-20 or 5W-30 for winter driving). High rpm cam failure can occur if the oil level is low or the oil is long overdue for a change.

With high mileage pushrod engines, the timing chain may have broken or slipped. Either type of problem can be diagnosed by doing a compression check and/or removing a valve cover and watching for valve movement when the engine is cranked.

A blown head gasket may prevent an engine from starting if the engine is a four cylinder with two dead cylinders. But most six or eight cylinder engines will sputter to life and run roughly even with a blown gasket. The gasket can, however, allow coolant to leak into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.


Test this ans tell us news.

Posted on Sep 02, 2010

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97 gmc 1500 350 5.7 new fuel pump and filter it cranks over but wont start


Kelly, could be a few issues, security lock out, crank sensor, fuel pump fuse/relay, faulty new pump,faulty ignition switch, etc. Attached links may help you diagnose the crank no start issue you are having.
Check the attached links,video,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
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My 97 bmw28is wont start everyting was working fine.batterry is full ibut cae r wont start


wont crank?
or cranks robustly (the crankshaft spins fast) but wont start.
all cars that dont start one, all ran when new. etc.
what counts is the now. only.
you need to do the tests. all covered in the FSM or at alldata.com
i cant help you because you . cuz did not say crank or start? so......

1: test all fuses. (not just gandering, use a meter)
2: check battery voltage 12.6vdc rested.
3: if not cranking, wiggle the shilter (a/t) or clutch if m/T
if a/t? try cranking in Neutral. cranks now? bingo.
4: cranks ok, and fast so check spark/

ill end there, due to vast number of tests and no clear stated
symptoms.
ever give it a full tuneup (60,000 mile service schedule?) or this DECADE. if not why ask the spark plug question.

May 20, 2014 | 1997 BMW 328

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Crown vic 2005 no start replaced fuel pump


check your crankshaft position sensor. fuel+spark+compression+timing=ignition.

Mar 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Fuel pump relay diagrams


auto shutoff relay controls both fuel and fire..the parts store can tell you for sure..

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Turns but will not start


Check to see if the Check Engine Light comes on when you first turn the key on (without cranking the engine). If not, there may be a power issue (fuse). Make sure that you have spark and fuel injector pulses. There may be a chance that the timing belt jumped or broken. Sometimes you can tell by the sound of the engine; rather than the usual sound, it makes when cranking, you may hear the engine cranking unevenly or faster than normal. Sometimes you can tell if the belt is broken by removing the oil fill cap and looking for valve train movement. Otherwise, an engine compression test will sometimes help to diagnose this. Sometimes the timing belt cover has to be removed to check for this condition.

Aug 02, 2013 | 2001 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

The car cranks but won't start. There is no spark, no fuel, no injector pulse. I have manually made the contacts in the shut down relay still nothing. I jumped the fuel relay and the fuel pump runs and I...


If you remove the fuel line and crank the engine and get fuel then you could be assured that the crank sensor works but if there is no fuel while cranking then the crank sensor is most likely the fault. If the crank sensor is not the problem then it is most likely in the coil or distributor which the 97 is notorious for.

Sep 06, 2010 | 1997 Chrysler Cirrus

1 Answer

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check fuel pump relay, if you it it will click for 2 seconds to start up fuel pump, it not working check or replace your relay, if relay is ok check fuel relay circuit

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I am retired from25 yrs as aoto tech. I used to enter diagnostics on Caddis by pushing off and warmer at same time. will a 97 deville work with same procedures through the AC controls? Family member has...


delayed ignition ?? (meaning no spark when first cranking over)
or delayed starting
if delayed spark -electrical problem -check Ignition module and wiring
if delayed starting (spark ok) i'd check is Fuel rest pressure And Fuel pump relay
Does fuel pump cycle when ignition is turned on
meaning engine starts when oil pressure activates pump

Mar 17, 2010 | 1995 Cadillac DeVille

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I cant start my escort van. it has been on the drive for over 12 months. i've tried to jump it but no good. the same thing happened a couple years ago but managed to jump start it that time


if went you start jump engine turns over, check for spark at spark plug wire if o.k check fuel pump persure if no persure check fuse and relay, if ok check voltage at fuel pump if ok replace fuel pump.

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