I'm having trouble pressing my clutch all the way in to start the vehicle, how do I tightened the clutch cable?

Either the clutch needs replacing or the cable needs adjusting.
First thing is to try and adjust it if possible.
Get someone to press and release the clutch pedal while you are looking in the engine compartment and see if you can locate the actuation mechanism. You should see the clutch lever being moved back and forth. Once located and you see which way everything moves, get the person to stop pressing the pedal. On the cable that moves the lever should be 2 nuts (one of which is a locking nut that prevents the the one nearest the lever from moving). Loose of the locking nut off and start tightening the other one up. The person in the car may see the pedal start rising up. Tighten up and try the clutch again. Keep adjusting until it feels okay whilst driving. Finally tighten the lock nut down to the adjusting nut to prevent it from loosening off over time. If there is not enough adjustment possible it may require a new cable.

First of all you said that the disk is in backwards. If this is the case, then it's possible that the friction plate is grinding on the flywheel and isn't transmitting any drive to the gearbox input shaft.
If you are certain that your friction plate has been installed the wrong way around, then you MUST do the job again and re-install. Im most cases an incorrect installation should have been obvious as the clutch cover plate would most often be difficult to tighten down and the friction plate would often be very difficult to align before tightening down the cover plate.

My guess is that you perhaps have another issue. You may have an issue with the release bearing, or release lever/assembly. I am not familiar with your model of vehicle, but does it have a clutch cable or hydraulic action? If it's a cable, then make certain that the cable has been re-adjusted after the new clutch plate install. If your adjustment is too tight then your clutch is basically disengaged and your car won't drive. If it's too loose, then you won't be able to disengage the clutch.
If you have a hydraulic system, then first try bleeding any air from the system and try operating the clutch once more.


Additional questions:

1) Can you select gears with the engine turned off? If no, then check your gear selector mechanism for fitment and operation.

2) If a gear can be selected, then with the vehicle started, does the vehicle move? If no, then check clutch cable adjustment, or remove gearbox and check friction plate, and cover fitment as well as release bearing operation.

3) When you hear a creak in the bell-housing, is the engine running or not running? If not running, then check clutch cable adjustment or bleed hydraulic lines and try again. If no luck, then remove gearbox and start again.

Are you putting it in the right gear? The vehicle sounds like its getting into the wrong gear.Does the shifter feel like there is alot of play? you may have a gear linkage problem,and do you have trouble getting in reverse if so you have a linkage problem

the clutch probably needs to be tightened up a bit that is if you can i dont know if it has a cable or is hydralic
if it has a cable then tighten it untill you have a little free play you can feel when you depress clutch pedal
if hydrolic then you may have air in system or master/slave cylinder may be going bad
also if you have recently had the gear oil changed they may have put in to thick an oil or the wrong type

Sounds like the clutch cable needs to be tightened up. They are adjustable. Usually where the clutch cable meets the side of the transmission.You'd want to tighten the nut to shorten the cable.

Or it could be a hydraulic clutch. Check the hydraulic fluid or the brake fluid. Some cars use the brake fluid for the clutch. Could of sprung a leak in the clutch line.

REMOVAL:

1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
8. Remove transmission.
9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.

INSTALLATION:

1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
   1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
   2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
   3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
   4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
   5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
   6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
   
   
2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
5. Install starter motor.
6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
   1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
   2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
   
   
7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

If it starts easy in neutral, then the clutch is "dragging" meaning it is slightly engaged. You can adjust the clutch cable at the gearbox end by holding the outer cable with a pair of pliers or grips, careful not to crimp the cable as you could damage it, and turning the serated plastic cap to tighten the cable. If this doesn't work then either the cable is already too stretched, or the clutch bearing is faulty and needs replacing.

If its a cable clutch adjust it by tighten it.If its hydraulic then the pressure plate is week change the clutch assembly

try tightening your clutch cable

Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3



Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
3. For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.

Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles

1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
2. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
3. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
4. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
5. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.

Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts
To install:

1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
2. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
   1. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
   2. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
   3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.
   
   
4. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
5. Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.

WARNING When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.

1. For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
2. If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.

ADJUSTMENTS


All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:

1. Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
2. Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.

On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.