Is it poss. to line up the two cams and the two bal. shafts at the same time

What, you want someone to write a 5 page personal manual for you on how to do it? Do you not have Google in your neighborhood?

hmmm check cam and crank pulleys for stamped dot and use straight edge to line up and have # 1 cyl TDC and and both valves closed on #1.............

Thats happened to alot of people. I usually pull the balance shaft and install a balance shaft removal kit. Other people i know just leave the shafts in but don't install the bal.shaft belt.

HERE is a link to the 4g64 engine overhaul manual

4 Cylinder diesel(4JX1) :
1 - Timing mark
2 - Cam pulley
3 - HP Oil pump pulley
4 - Tensioner pulley




6 Cylinder petrol:
Align crank(C) timing notch mark (1) to oil pump mark.
Align cam pulley(L+R) marks(3) to cylinder head marks
The cam belt has 3 marks, 2 lines and one mark that is actually a row of dots. Align the dots to the crank pulley groove mark(2) and align the other 2 lines to the cam pulley marks. Using a clothes peg to hold the belt to the cam pulleys works wonders to keep it in place while fitting. Please note the arrows on the belt and have them point in the direction of rotation - right to left side of engine
W - water pump pulley
I - Idler pulley
T - Tensioner pulley.

If for some reason you need to realign the cams on each bank :
Standing in front of the car and starting from YOUR left , looking at the cams you should see RE, RI, LI, LE on each of the camshafts.(R for right bank, L for left bank, I for intake and E for exhaust) Right bank camshafts are marked with one dot, left bank with 2 dots on the shaft itself. To align the camshafts to each other each cam shaft gear has a mark on it. Draw an imaginary line between the centre of the camshaft and the centre of the pulley. The alignment mark should be between the two along this imaginary line. The result will be that RI an RE will be at the top of each gear. The same with the left bank.

ITS INSIDE THE DISTIBUTOR THKE OFF CAP UNPLUG CONECTOR TAKE OUT DISTIBUTOR SHAFT TAKE OUT MOUNTIHG SCREWS REMOVE SENSOR REPLACE IN OPPISITE ORDER

its tricky enough if your not sure what your doing but ill run you through it. 1. remove top rocker cover and timing belt cover. 2 make up the position of the pully on the cam shaft at the top and the drive shaft at the bottom, this marks are you fail safe incase you cant time the engine. 3 remove the timing belt and pully tentioner, note if your going this far you are as well to replace the timing belt,tentioner and water pump. 4 On the cam shaft at the top if you force them to turn you will see a small indicator mark on the shaft this mark has to line up with the other indicator mark on the housing between the cam shaft and the cam shaft pully, once they line up your top end is timed, mark up the pully incase it moves. 5 on the drive shaft pully there is also markings that have to line up but you can also feel the position of the pully as you turn it, you will feel the piston been forced up and it is timed at top dead centre on cylinder one, which means the the piston has to be at the top just before the point of returning back down, using your feeling as a guide and the markings lined up you will have timing. also mark up this pully, your new marking should be very very close to the fail safe markings you put on at the start. when you have your marking replace the timing belt with the longest distance between pully contact going on first, try not disturb your timing or your hard work will have been for nothing, make sure the tentioner on the belt is tight but not to tight to the point where you ll stretch the belt or snap it, put everything back as you found it and crank the engine, job done, best of luck. hope this helps( rate me on my answer thanks )

Hi, this is how to align timing on a 1991 Volvo 740.
There are marks for all three. Cam and Aux shafts have dots on face of outer gear. Cam lines up with mark on rear timing cover(about 1 o'clock). Aux lines up with mark on seal housing (about 3 o'clock) and crank lines up with mark on seal housing (about 12 o'clock).

Take care

Two things to look for, one is the drive shaft u joints, and drive shaft timing. all the u-joints should line up. Next check for a bent/ damaged wheel. I had to swap mine one wheel at the time with a known good wheel till I found the bad wheel that a bal. did not find.

1. remove air intake pipe, and box (upper and lower section)
2. take off timing belt cover
3. take off serpintine belt, and v belt
4. rotate engine to TDC marks line up on crank and cam. camshaft says O^T on it and on the cover behind gear, crank has a notch in the pulley and a arrow on the cover to line up
5. remove crank pulley 6mm allens not the 19mm 12 bolt
6. make sure timing belt is still at TDC remove lower timing belt cover there is 3 bolts and a nut holding it on the nut is by the water pump and the bolts are on on top and 2 behind the crank pulley
7. remove cover
8. mark intermediate shaft shaft right above the crank pulley
9. remove belt
10. install reverse of removal make sure to line up all 3 pulleys cam crank and intermediate shaft or it wont run and depending on how bad it is out of time if you do it wrong you could bend valves

Assuming this is a 2.0 8v your question is pretty vague

IF it is a mechanical fuel pump...
Poss worn out Cam Shaft... not making the pump work!