My car won't move in any gear could it be due to my bad cv joints

change the gearbox is the only answer ,ask a local mechanic to confirm faul
t first in case it is a inner CV joint

If the car does not move either forward or in reverse gear, then it may be due the following defects:
- Inner cup of one of the CV Joints may have jumped out of the transmission. (Simply push it back in the transmission forcibly)
- Torque converter damaged.
Or there could be something which has gone bad within the transmission assembly, for example:
1. Manual valve.
2. Valve body assembly.
3. Planetary gear unit.
4. Forward clutch.
5. Number 2 one-way clutch.
6. Reverse clutch.
7. 1st and reverse brake.

If the wheel is out of alignment so bad that it is noticeable. Then I would be checking the suspension ball joints and the wheel bearings. If the wheel is not held true when running then the cv joint will be binding up and generating the noise.. If you are not savvy to this I suggest you put it on a truck and get it to a workshop before you do more damage .

continuous velocity joint going bad (CV JOINT). will need to be replaced, may go out at anytime, or may last a good while. likely reason is boot was cracked and grease was lost, so over time the joint gets heat cracked, and eventually breaks and bearings come loose leaving veh imobile (won't effect engine, wheels just won't move)

Sounds like you have a failed CV joint. Set the brake, chock the wheels and have someone look at the CV shafts while the car is in gear. I bet one of them is rotating because the CV joint is broken. You can get remanufactured, and new CV shafts quite inexpensively.

may be a striped axle stub or a broken cv joint. but a bad trans is just as likely. have someone look under the car from the side at the axles. then start and put in gear to see if one of the axles turns but car dont move. if it spins then the outer cv joint is broke or the splines in the hub are stripped.

No,it's not either. I wouldn't recommend driving the jeep in 4wd until
you get this resolved, unless you want to spend big money on a new
tranfer case? The transfer case gears are not lining up properly,due to
either the shifter linkage not properly adjusted, or the transfer case is
shot, gear wise.U joints and cv joints(constant velocity) don't make
crunching noises like your explaining when bad. U joints usually just
drop the drive shaft when bad and you will go nowhere. CV's make a
clanking,rapping, or grinbding sound when bad. Good luck. Get it
to someone who can diagnose the issue , before you wreck the transfer
case, immediately.Good Luck.

Much of the symptoms you describe sound like a CV joint. I would take it to the dealer and insist that it be fixed... What is bothering me though is under normal operating conditions, CV joints and boots are engineered to last upwards of 150,000 miles. Some go the distance, but a lot reach the end of the road far short of their design life. According to one major aftermarket supplier of replacement axle shafts, CV joint shafts are typically being replaced at anywhere from 70,000 miles to 130,000 miles.

Read this and see if you agree...
SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE
Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:

• Popping or clicking noises when turning. This almost always indicates a worn or damaged outer CV joint. To verify this condition, place the vehicle in reverse, crank the steering wheel to one side and drive the vehicle backwards in a circle (check the rearview mirror first!). If the noise gets louder, it confirms the diagnosis and the need for a new CV joint or replacement shaft assembly.
  
• A "clunk" when accelerating, decelerating or when putting the transaxle into drive. The noise comes from excessive play in the inner joint on FWD applications, either inner or outer joints in a RWD independent suspension, or from the driveshaft CV joints or U-joint in a RWD or AWD powertrain. The same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in differential gears. To verify the condition, back the vehicle up, alternately accelerating and decelerating while in reverse. If the clunk or shudder is more pronounced, it confirms a bad inner joint.
  
• A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.
  
• A shudder or vibration when accelerating. May be caused by play in the inboard or outboard joints, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. Similar vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts, or by bad motor mounts on FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines.
  
• A vibration that increases with speed. This symptom is rarely caused by a failing CV joint. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the more likely causes.

to find this out hold with both hands the cv joint pull on the inner shaft when holding the outer shaft still if it moves a lot its the joint, if it dont move much, its not the joint so then pull on the outer part of the joint that go's into the gearbox, dont hold the shaft only hold the inner most part of the cv joint that go's into the box if it moves/ flops about its the bearing in the gear box

Could be a few things. Bad ball joint, cv joint, or others. But I'ld start with the CV joints. Basically, your axle shaft. First way to tell if that's the prob would be to put truck in 4 wheel drive, LOW gear. This will lock up all four tires. Then jack up that corner of truck. If the tire only moves a little before you can't anymore, it's fine. But if you can spin your tire completely, odds are it's your cv joint.