At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
THERE IS A AIR VALVE ON THE CLUTCH HOUSING; OPEN ITT AND PUSH CLUTCH AND HOLD IT UNTIL THE AIR VALVE IS SHUT, REPEAT UNTIL THE AIR IS OUT. BUT MAKE SURE TO REFILL THE OIL SUPPLY AT THE MASTER CYLINDER.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Probably just need to bleed the hydrolic clutch.. You should be able to see the assemble for the hydrolic fork and what looks like a bleeder screw that you would find on your brakes... Bleed it the same way you would brakes..
keep you fluid level above 3/4 full- assuming you have a hydrolic clutch- unhook negitve battery cable remove rubber cap from bleeder screw on the release cylinder.place place a bleeder tube over the end of the bleeder screw.sumerge other end in a jar thats half full of hydrolic brake fluid.slowly pump the clutch pedal fully and let return slowly several times requires two people while pressing clutch to the floor lossen bleeder untill fluid comes out then close keep repeating this while keeping an eye on your bleeder tube jar as soon as you see no more bubbles close the bleeder screw and again make sure to keep an eye on resivor to remain 3/4 full or will get air in the line and have to start over. this part should be located on the tranny this is for hydrolic bleeding system refure to your owners manual for your type and location of your clutchrelease slave cylander.
you clutch needs bled better, i'm currently going through this now. If bleed your clutch hydrolics, and after a few days it starts sticking again, you will need a new clutch master cylinder and slaves cylinder. About $70 at autozone. Make sure when you bleed it you get NO AIR not even little bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Bleeding the cluch is much more difficult that bleeding the brakes.
is it a hydrolic clutch?? if so, near the clutch housing will be what looks like a bleed nipple, simlar to those on the brake system. basically check the fluid level is topped up, then with help, undoe the bleed nipple while someone pumps the clutch a few times, making sure they hold the pedal down before you tighten the nipple. repeat this until full operation of the clutch .
using a brake bleed kit will also prevent air getting back into the system. top fluid up as required while performing this process.
want to know a short cut? (trick) take the master cylinder for the clutch off the firewall and tilt forward while pumping the pistron by hand and bleeding those fords are notorious for air locking in the master cylinder due to the fact!! they fasten to the firewall at a backwards tilt!! i have done over 2700 of them in 45 years
two man job. One guy to pump the pedal, one to crack the bleeder loose on the slave cylinder. only open the bleeder when the pedal is pushed to the floor.tighten the bleeder before letting up on the pedal. Hope this helps.
First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.
×