How do the sway bar links and tie rods relate? Or are they completely different?

Sounds like ball joints/ control arms, could also be tie rods. Sway bar links not so much.

Probably below the tie rod. Links should bolt to the lower control arms

Make new brackets to lower the sway bar

Usually suspension lifts utilize longer sway bar links or relocates the sway bar lower to accommodate the change in distance between lower control arms and the frame.

check your sway bar and sway bar connecting links, ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and don't forget to check tire pressure and do a complete check for any broken suspension parts front and rear of vehicle

Check the wheel bearings,brake calipers, brake pads, tie-rods, ball-joints, and the other related steering components, anti-sway bar links, and shocks.

Those sound like your Sway bar end links, and usually they come out tricky, need a way to hold the ball and socket while removing the nut.Sometimes there is a place for a wrench on back side of sway bar closer to link opposite the nut.

I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
Tie Rods:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.

The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
Hints:
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.

Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!

My dear if according to you,

You've replaced tie rod ends, lower ball joints, sway bar links, struts and strut ends, and the warped brake rotors and the issue is still at hand; then you ought to consider replacing the hubs.

Good luck.

The sway bar bushings are under the large clamps that hold the bar to the frame. The ends of the sway bar are connected to the struts by the sway bar links. When the links wear out, they clunk--not squeak. The bushings are under the retainer in the pic below.