It wants to red line after I start. This happened

the service manual covers all that, buy it or rent it?
V8 Engine. 1996 Infinity Q45
scans said it bad, if not do not listen to dweebs saying it is bad blind,
not told why you want to go there at all.?
bank 1, KS-1
they are both mounted to the top of the bare engine block
they are Microphones, no loose bolts rattling up there
or loose cam chains.
the main intake manifold must be pulled. (takes skills)
facing engine bank 1 is right bank, cylinder 1 front there.
KS1 is on same bank.
left word below means drivers seat perspective
see below KS1 is on the right facing the engine
clear as day we see the intake manifold is gone.

FRONT Of car IS HERE X

it is big sandwich, remove the top things seen to get here.called gaining ACCESS to it.

KS- sensors can lie you (scannned)
chain on cam bad.
lifter collapsed
or worse, can happen, bent valves?
do you hear noise (bad) form the engine, even at idle parked.

NO MAN CAN GUESS YOUR SKILLS OR TOOLS
NOR WHY YOU LANDED HERE,
DWEEBS ON THE WWW INTERNET TOLD YOU?
but I did answer how. not tools ,just where it is and what must come off. the block.
do not break bolts (snap) removing them.
I use pen oil and heat and more tactics. ask
with 6mm bolts, there, it can be tedious. not wrecking those.

now the SM words told (pasted)

1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect the air intake duct from the dual duct housing.
4. Unplug the electrical connectors from the throttle body, the step motor AAC valve and the exhaust gas temperature sensor.
5. Disconnect and label the hoses from the valve cover, the throttle body, the step motor AAC valve, the EGR control valve and the air cut valve.
6. If the spark plug wires are in the way, disconnect them and move them aside. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.
7. Remove the upper intake manifold collector-to-intake manifold bolts, and lift the assembly from the intake manifold. Discard the gasket.
8. Remove the lower intake manifold collector-to-intake manifold bolts, in sequence, and lift the assembly from the intake manifold. Discard the gasket.
9. If the fuel injector assembly is in the way, perform the following procedures:
   1. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors.
   2. Disconnect the fuel injector assembly from the fuel lines.

1. Remove the fuel rail-to-cylinder head bolts.
2. Remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.

Remove the intake manifold-to-engine bolts, in sequence, lift the intake manifold from the engine and discard the gasket.

see that arrow red, it is inTHERE
im told Olive OyL can get there , directly./(grin)

for the V8 - it's underneath the intake manifold. You have to remove the Coolant overflow line, then the fuel rail. (be sure to disconnect the injector harness). I think it's 10 bolts that run around the manifold - unbolt them. Be sure to remove /pull back the vacuum lines and be careful not to break them. then lift off the intake manifold and voila, starter is held on by 3 bolts (i think). Just be sure to disconnect the battery before doing anything. reassemble in reverse.

this does sound like a head problem (hopefully just the gasket). pulling the head with the exhaust manifold attached is possible but tricky and difficult. risking the bolt and drilling it out if it snaps would be alot easier. I would strongly suggest having the head checked while its off (so you dont rebuild to find that you wasted time and money on a bad head)

You have to find the leak and seal it up, hey. It may help to picture where vacuum originates in the engine: As the pistons move down in the cylinders they pull air in from the intake manifold. This creates a pressure drop in the intake, a vacuum that is maintained as the engine is running. New air that is pulled into the intake is measured by the Mass Air Flow sensor mounted in the big boot between the air filter and the intake. If extra air is pulled into the intake manifold from a vacuum leak, uncalibrated air, the computer can figure it out from the oxygen sensors reading in the exhaust-mixture is too lean, so the computer will try to compensate by delivering more fuel, but can't deliver enough, mix is still too lean, so computer sets a code for the vacuum leak.
The intake will have a few vacuum taps with hoses running to engine or car controls that require vacuum to operate. If one of the hoses comes off or has a leak, that is extra air into the intake. Your power brake booster has a large vacuum tap. That may be the problem. With the engine running, pull off that line and plug it, and see if engine speed changes. If the idle drops that may be your leak-a failed power brake booster.
If nothing yet, keep engine running and spray some starting fluid around the mounting area of the intake manifold (maybe the intake gasket has failed and sprung a leak) and listen for a change in engine pitch or speed. The fluid may get sucked into the intake and cause speed to change. If it does, you would need to remove the intake manifold and fit a new manifold gasket.
Also check the big boot from the air filter to the throttle body for tears or loose fit. Good luck, Rev!

Hi!!
These are the steps to follow to remove the Starter Motor and the Intake Manifold. If you follow them you'll have no problems when the job is done. Pay special attention to the pre-installation steps for the Intake Manifold.

To Replace the Starter, Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Negative battery cable
2. Intake manifold
3. Starter electrical connectors
4. Starter motor

View of starter motor removal and wires


To install, Install or connect the following:

1. -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
2. Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
3. Starter motor
4. Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
5. Intake manifold
6. Negative battery cable

INTAKE MANIFOLD
PRIOR TO REMOVAL:

• Relieve the fuel system pressure
• Drain the cooling system.

Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Negative battery cable
2. Intake manifold heat shield
3. Sight shield
4. Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers
5. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
6. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
7. Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
8. Fuel inlet and return lines
9. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
10. 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
11. Fuel injector electrical connections
12. Fuel rail and injectors
13. Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen Intake manifold bolts and the manifold
14. Clean the manifold mating surfaces.

Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines




PRIOR TO INSTALL:

• Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
• Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
• Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
• Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.
• Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
• Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).

Install or connect the following:

1. Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
2. Fuel injector electrical connections
3. Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs
4. Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped
5. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
6. Fuel inlet and return lines
7. Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid
8. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
9. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover
10. Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers
11. Sight shield
12. Intake manifold heat shield
13. Negative battery cable
14. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

The Vortec engines were notorious for those kind of problems. The problem will be under the upper-intake manifold, and the fuel injector assembly will either have a cracked plastic fuel line running out to one or more of the fuel injectors, or the fuel pressure regulator that is located on the end of the fuel injector assembly is faulty or it has detached from the fuel injector assembly. Either way the lower intake manifold will be flooded with fuel anytime that the fuel pump runs.

There were two types made, the first type had fuel lines that connected to the lower intake manifold, and then from the metal fittings the fuel line turns into plastic and runs inside the lower intake manifold and under the upper-intake manifold where it runs over to the fuel injector assembly, and this type can really flood out an engine when it becomes faulty.

The second type had metal fuel lines running over the upper intake manifold and they connected to the top of the fuel injector assembly, however, under the upper-intake manifold there are still plastic lines to the fuel injectors and also the fuel pressure regulator that could be faulty and cause the engine to severely flood.

The upper-intake manifold is not that difficult to remove, and after you remove the upper-intake manifold then (replace the fuel lines to the fuel injector assembly if it is the second type) turn the ignition to the "Run" position and when the fuel pump runs you should see where the fuel is leaking/spraying from, and it will most likely be a large high pressure leak from a ruptured plastic fuel line.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.

answer , very carefully ...

drain coolant , remove and mark all vacuum lines , make a schematic to diagram your hose routing, disconnect and plug all fuel lines, remove distributor and mark location of rotor, disconnect battery, remove any necessary cables, brackets and or accesseries, remove intake mounting bolts, note length of bolts and reference location, pry up on intake , remove intake, scrape old gasket off , must be very clean to reinstall new gasket or you will cause a leak..

it could but- check passenger side front where heater core line go into manifold right behind alternator the hose line is connected by a press clip into an alloy fitting this fitting gets eaten away by anti freeze and hose angle pulls back on fitting the part is $18 at dealer and is screwed into manifold use caution if ur r going to replace at very edge of aluminum manifold---and check ur water pump bolts the 2 longer ones should have a lock sealant on them they bolt in thru a water jacket

Knock Sensors under the intake manifold. There are 2. Replace both, it takes 3 or four hours to pull apart the manifold and re-install. All fuel lines have to be disconnected and needs a special tool. While you have the intake off, spray 3 or 4 cans of throttle body cleaner thru the plastic manifold. The parts only take ten minutes to replace, once you get to them. Make sure you use good 100% silicone on the new ones so it does not happen again. Once you get it back together, it will run like a champ. Hope this helps

Found the info!!

This Dodge EGR valve is a certain kind of device that is mounted right on your intake manifold which controls the amount of exhaust gasses back into your engine.
On a 2005 Dakota with 4.7 liter engine (non-HO), the EGR valve is located near the intake manifold on the driver's side right up against the firewall. It's hard to spot as it sits lower than the intake manifold. To change it, remove the electrical connector. There's a red tab that needs to be pushed to one side and then you have to squeeze down on a tab to get it free. Using a 13 mm socket, remove the bolt that you can see. I had to use a 3 inch wobble extention and then a 8 inch extension with a deep well socket to reach it with my 3/8 inch ratchet. There's a second bolt that you can't see between the EGR valve and the firewall. With a little trial and error and a lot more luck, you can reach the hidden bolt with the 3 inch wobble extension and a 13 mm deep well socket. Attach the ratchet after the socket is on and remove. This one isn't easy and if there's any Dodge engineers reading this one, a couple of extra inches of clearance between the valve and the firewall wouldn't have killed you no matter what the cost accountants said. With both bolts removed, you should be able to pull out the metal pipe that connects the manifold to the EGR valve out of the manifold (Pull to the right) and then you can lift the valve out. For assembly, the metal pipe connecting the intake manifold the EGR valve has to be removed and reinstalled on the new valve. It's held on with 2 5/16th" bolts. You should put the rear bolt on tight, but leave the front bold loose for the reinstall as some adjustment is necessary to get it put back together and the rear is a pain to tighten when installed. Line up the bolts that attach the valve and get the rear 13 mm bolt (The one you couldn't see on disassembly) started. Do not start the other 13 mm bolt as you'll need to pivot the valve and pipe to the left in order to reinsert the pipe into the intake manifold. Once the pipe is in the intake manifold. Start the other 13 mm bolt and tighten both 13 mm bolts and then the 5/16" bolts holding the pipe onto the valve. Reinstall the electrical connection. Please don't forget to rate!!!!