Clutch adjustment 1989 Ford F 250 6 cylinder 2 wheel drive 4-speed granny low I believe the only adjustment is the pitman arm above the steering column and I can't get it off any suggestions thank you

If the steering wheel is off center generally its not the wheel. Something is out of alignment underneath. Tire rods, pitman arm, you name it, that is where the real problem is. Could be out of adjustment or bent some way. Can tell where to look because we cant see it, but 90% of time problem not in steering wheel

• How to Adjust the Play in Power Steering

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Things You'll Need

Adjustable wrench

Pitman arm puller

Torque wrench

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Instructions

Park the vehicle on a level surface and make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead. Make sure the vehicle is in park (or in gear if you have manual transmission) and set the parking brake.

Disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box from underneath the front of the vehicle by turning the holding bolt in a counterclockwise direction with an adjustable wrench. Place a pitman arm puller (available at auto parts stores) over the pitman arm and tighten the nut on the puller in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench until the pitman arm loosens from the steering box shaft. Remove the pitman arm and the puller.

Open the hood and loosen the lock nut on top of the steering box from the engine compartment with an adjustable wrench in a counterclockwise direction.

Place a torque wrench on the steering shaft and turn the wrench one complete turn. Make sure the torque reading is approximately 2 inch pounds. Tighten the adjusting nut on top of the steering box (it comes out of the center of the lock nut) in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench one half turn if the torque wrench reading is too low. Loosen the nut in a counterclockwise direction if the reading is too high.

Rotate the steering shaft with the torque wrench again. Make adjustments to the steering box adjusting nut as described in Step 4, if needed, until the correct reading is obtained on the torque wrench.

Make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and reattach the pitman arm to the bottom of the steering shaft on the steering box. Tighten the holding nut in a clockwise direction with an adjustable wrench until the pitman arm seats into place.

Tighten the lock nut on top of the steering box with an adjustable wrench in a clockwise direction. Close the hood

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the stone shield.
   
3. Tag the pressure and return lines so they may be reassembled in their original positions.
   
4. Disconnect the pressure and return lines from the steering gear. Plug the lines and ports in the gear to prevent the entry of dirt.
   
5. Remove the clamp bolts retaining the flexible coupling to the steering gear.
   
6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
7. Remove the nut from the sector shaft.
   
8. Remove the pitman arm from the sector shaft with a suitable pitman arm removal tool. Remove the tool from the pitman arm.
   

1. Support the steering gear and remove the steering gear retaining bolts.
   
2. Work the gear free of the flex coupling and remove the gear.
   
3. If the flex coupling did not come off with the gear, lift it off the shaft.
   

To install:

1. Turn the steering wheel to the straight-ahead position
   

During installation, position the steering gear input shaft as shown on 1992-98 vehicles

1. Center the steering gear input shaft with the indexing flat facing downward on 1989-91 vehicles. On 1992-98 vehicles, center the steering gear input shaft with the centerline of the 2 indexing flats at 4 o'clock.
   
2. Slide the steering gear input shaft into the flex coupling and into place on the frame side rail. Install the retaining bolts and tighten to 50-65 ft. lbs. (68-88 Nm).
   
3. Make sure the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. Install the pitman arm on the sector shaft and install the lockwasher and nut. Tighten the nut to 233-250 ft. lbs. (316-338 Nm).
   
4. Move the flex coupling into place on the steering gear input shaft. Install the retaining bolt and tighten to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm).
   
5. Connect the pressure and return lines to the steering gear and tighten the lines. Fill the reservoir and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop to distribute the fluid. Check the fluid level and add fluid, if necessary.
   
6. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel from left to right.
   
7. Check for leaks.
   
8. Install the stone shield.
   

Sit up on the clutch paddle, follow the clutch paddle up under the dash, the rod that goes through the fire wall to the clutch master cylinder, sit around that rod, will have a six pin connector going to it.

yes you need to unbolt the steering box and drop it a little. not to hard. then you remove the nut and you will have to use a puller most of the time.

What I think you are referring to as the pump is really the steering box because the pump doesn't have an arm connected to it. The pump has 2 hoses and a belt going to it. From what you describe it sounds like you need a pitman shaft seal. The seal is replaceable but you will need a pitman arm puller to get the pitman arm off. If you don't have or can't get a puller don't even bother starting the repair, as you WILL NOT get the pitman arm off without one. When you get the pitman arm off clean out around the shaft and you will see a snap ring. Remove the snap ring. Now make sure the power steering is full of fluid. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel all the way one way or the other and hold it there while increasing the RPM. Doing this will literally "BLOW" the seal out. There will be a couple of spacers and maybe another seal that come out of the hole also. So read the installation instructions that come with the seal kit and it will have a picture of where the components go and in what order they go in. Don't forget the snap ring. When done replaceing the seal you have to center the steering box. From all the way one way turn the steering wheel all the way the other way and count the turns. Now turn back the other way half as many turns and the box is centered. With the tires pointed straight (not turning) the pitman arm should go right on. The pitman arm will go on the pitman shaft in 4 different places. So if you don't center the box and the wheels you might have say one turn to the right before the steering wheel stops and three turns to the left. With all this done fill the power steering with fluid. With the front tires off the ground and the engine NOT running turn the steering wheel all the way from stop to stop 4 or 5 times and then check the fluid again. Fill the fluid and turn wheel from stop to stop another 4 or 5 times. Doing this will "bleed" most of the air out of the system. Now start the engine and turn wheel from stop to stop a few more times to "bleed" any remaining air from system. Turn off the engine and check fluid level. Hope this is helpful.

to remouve the steering weel and drive the vehicle slowly look on fordwar in line and replace the colum ,, the noise must came from the adaption that you made . raise the vehicle and see were is any part for the suspention that toutching the chassis and ajust it......