CLUTCH FREE TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT
Hi there
A1996 Escort should be a automatic adjustment so there isent any adjustment to do as its only the early ones that had adjustable rods,but look under the car and if you can see a thread on the rod then you can adjust it and the adjustment is 1/8 of a inch or 3MM.
SOURCE: clutch cable adjustment
the clutch cables dont really adjust if its still to long after fitting a new clutch then i suggest that a new cable fitt4ed aswel as it seems to have stretched
SOURCE: clutch bites high up on pedal movement
check clutch master cylinder rod adjustment and pedal height should be just higher than brake pedal. could try and bleed system also.
most hydraulic clutch systems have high take up points, adjust master cylinder rod, check for free play at top after adjusting if all that is O.K. then clutch plate may be nearly worn out but not slipping at this stage.
SOURCE: Model T clutch adjustment
Check to see that when you pull the lever back, that the parking brakes aren't grabbing. Approximately straight up, and down with the lever, is the neutral position, then pulling it back slightly towards the seat will set the parking brake.
Also, push the low pedal in very slowly, until you feel when you hit the low speed cam. You'll feel it. There will suddenly be more resistance at this point. That's where neutral is. The pedal should move down about 1 and 1/2 inches. The manual states halfway, this may be incorrect.
Jack up the car, (Use chock blocks under the tires, and work on a hard, level flat surface), check that the parking brakes are not setting when the lever is in the neutral position.
And yes, your deduction is correct about when the clutch oil is cold. The clutch used is a 'Wet Clutch'.
1.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_T_Ford
2.http://www.modeltcentral.com/transmission_animation.html
SOURCE: 1994 FORD RANGER STANDARD TRANS CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE
The only adjustment you'll probably need is to get the air out of the clutch line. Loosen the bleeder screw, and put a two or three foot vacuum line on it. Submerse the other end of the line in a bottle of brake fluid. Pump the clutch untill no more bubbles are coming out of the hose into the bottle. Be sure to keep the reservoir topped up while you do this. Hold the clutch down, and tighten the bleeder screw. Some hydraulic clutches do have an adjustment on the rod that goes from the slave cyllinder to the pressure plate. I'm not sure about yours. If there is a nut on the rod, you can adjust it somewhat. You want it set so that there is just a little bit of play between the rod and the pressure plate where the rod goes. If none of this helps, you mayneed to replace the slave cyllinder.
SOURCE: After bleeding my hydraulic clutch I still don't
Did you replace the slave or master cylinder or both? WHats the reason for needing to bleed it? If it seemed like it was out of adjustment and you bled it, it may indicate that either of these parts are allowing fluid past when under pressure. If you replaced one and not the other, that could be where your problem lies. If you replaced both, then try loosening the bleeder and leave it undone overnight. This should allow the air out.
Clutch
ADJUSTMENTS
1997-98 Models
CLUTCH PEDAL HEIGHT
The clutch pedal height should not be a periodic adjustment but may be checked after components of the mechanical clutch system have been replaced.
The proper clutch pedal height should be 0.2 in. (5mm) above the brake pedal height
If adjustment is necessary, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting bolt until the appropriate height is reached. Once set, keep the bolt from turning and tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment.
CLUTCH PEDAL FREE-PLAY
The clutch pedal free-play should be checked from time-to-time in order to assure proper clutch operation.
The proper clutch free-play should be 0.6-1.1 in. (15-25mm).
Fig. 1: Pedal free-play is adjusted at the joint nut (2), while keeping the outer cable nuts (3) tightened around the center cable thread portion
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