When I accelerate from a stop my wheels spin & I do a skip before I move forward. Once I reach about 30-35 mph I do not have a problem. I also have issues with acceleration when turning. Both my ABS light & my check engine light both come on intermittently. Is this dangerous to continue driving with this problem? Will I have brake failure?
SOURCE: Isuzu Rodeo abs light
I had it repaired: one of my sensors needed to be replaced. No more light!
SOURCE: 1996 Buick Century- When accelerating from
low on fluid!
transmission pump failing or converter loose or cracked drive plate where converter bolts up to
could be slipping clutches or bands
or even the control module
get it to a workshop asap!
preferaly dont flat tow it or drive it as your only doing more damage
Cheers Rob.
SOURCE: 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 54248 miles
Hi.
If problem is only on startup and when idleing, then the problem is likely IAC system, also a vacuum leak will cause the same problem.
If problem is not only on startup and idle, but also when driving, then MAP sensor and EGR system must be checked.
Check also accelerator cable state and setting.
The first thing to do is pulling out the OBDII fault codes stored in the ECM. This is done connecting a code reader to the ECM diagnostic port. The job can be done for a small fee at any local garage, and it is done for free at AutoZone.
The codes will help locating the problem.
About possible faults:
Problem is stalling when idling and during startup, but engine idling fast all the time. Problem not starting at times it is due to the fact that the wrong mixture is being sprayed, this is probably causing flooding and misfire. Since the CEL is on, one of the codes returned is probably misfire.
Check accelerator.
Check IAC system. This is composed by a valve and a solenoid that check and control amount of extra air air when the engine is idling. The IAC valve is located on top of the throttle body.
Check the vacuum system and try cranking with gas tank cap off. Vacuum
system is tested using an hand tool gauge onvacuum lines while spraying
card cleaner on the hoses (or heating them with a torch). If there is a
leak, pressure will go up. A big leak will also do hissing noise, and
will often result in a lean code when doing an OBD code scanning.
This kind of symptoms can also be caused by weak wiring to MAP/MAF sensor (MAP in this engine).
If the car also drives very rough and is revving up and down in a weird way, check the EGR valve.
As first thing I would do a code scanning. This car is OBDII. The scan can be done for free at the nearest Autozone, or for a small fee at any garage.
If you get any OBDII code from the scan, report it here, so that we can individuate the possible reason for the problem.
If you repute my solution helpful, then please take some times to accept the solution. Providing good repair tips requires time and skills, and your feedback is important for us.
Regards.
Ginko.
SOURCE: Check engine light comes on
A CODE SCAN CAN STILL BE DONE, SINCE IT RUNS GOOD ITS JUST A SENSOR PROBABLY AN o2 THAT HAS GONE BAD, THE SCAN WILL LET U KNOW. TAKE TO AUTO ZONE THEY CAN SCAN FOR U
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