How to test j style fuses - 2001 Pontiac Aztek

whoa. A 37 year old Dodge. Would that be with the old style Buss brand fuses with the glass cylinder between two metal ends? The fuse panel location should be under the driver's dash. I don't think dodge was too different in locating most items, and that's where it usually was found. Don't be surprised by the small number of fuses, my '79 Datsun has only 5 or 6 fuses on the whole truck.

Why haven't you bought an automotive test light to check your fuses? You don't have to pull them out to inspect, a test light will tell you immediately if the fuse is good or bad while still inserted. Plus you can tell if the fuse is getting power as it should when checking circuits.
To test any fuse with a test light, clip the tester lead to a good ground screw or metal bracket- be absolutely sure the ground is good or the test is invalid-now for a dash light, turn the head/park light switch on. Now one end of the fuse will be hot- use the test light probe to touch one end of the fuse or just the metal clip surrounding the fuse- your test light should light up. Test the fuse by touching the other end. If fuse is good tester will light on both ends of fuse. If fuse is blown, tester will only light on one end of the fuse. If your wiring to the fuse panel is good, you know some of the wires to it will be hot. Some are hot all time (brake lights, horn), some are hot with key in on, run, or start. You just follow the circuit that way, and use a test light or voltmeter, you can't go wrong...well, you can, but you can also learn from your mistakes. Incidentally, you can test all the modern fuses for today's cars in the same way. All of these modern molded fuses have slots called test ports on them, one at each end of the tops of the fuse. No more pulling them out to eyeball, whoops.

there are many. not just one.
the fuse box is marked
the operators guide in the glove box, shows this, see index, FUSES
LOST THAT? ITS FREE
http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/resources/owners-manuals?p_p_id=changemodelyear_WAR_toyotaownersonlineportlet&p_p_lifecycle=1&p_p_state=normal&p_p_mode=view&_changemodelyear_WAR_toyotaownersonlineportlet_action=processRequest&_changemodelyear_WAR_toyotaownersonlineportlet_javax.portlet.action=processRequest#Owners-Manuals


or the FSM , NOTHING IS BETTER, !

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or alldata.com log in read.that is what we do ,login. it all there.

you can also test all fuses. with a out care in the world, what it does.
if all pass a voltage test, its not fuses !

can i ask a question, why?
can you post symptoms with a question, so we can be on same page?.
100% advice, 100% retired, no affiliations to any links ever.

ck fuses on the fuse box inside the car is a fuse call star ck newtral safety switck located at the transmision wheare the shifter cable conects also have a starter relay

start by checking fuse. if fuse is good, aquire a test light, check the test light on the battery to make sure the test light works. Power to ground = light. access blower motor under pass-side dash panel.(probablly have to remove underdash cover, secured with pop-in style fasteners.) locate blower motor. 2 wires w/connector Purple-power, black-ground. check for power at purple w/test light on known good ground, with ign on, and blower switch on high. if it has power, hook clip of test light to a power source, ( + on battery w a jumper wire) and probe black wire, with test light. if no light, jumper that wire to a good ground. if it lights, you have a bad b-motor. if no light on power side of blower motor, and fuse is good, check power to swith. blower circuit may have 2 fuses. 1 for high and a 2nd for the lower speeds. if switch has power to it, and power is transfered to another wire when switched, suspect the blower motor resistor. James White, White Automotive, Hopkins Mo. ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.

Cars.com does not have NHTSA crash-test ratings for the 2001 Hyundai Tiburon. Ratings may be available for other styles.
if you need an auto tool you can click here : chinasinoy.com
hope it can help you and good luck

Not sure which part you mean no power.

For the New Body style 2004 ( not a Heritage or Lightning model )

If both Stop / Turn pins & the parking lamps, might want to check the ground pin to make sure it is good ( or what you are using for ground on the test light / meter ).

The trailer tow parking lamp circuit is fuse #10 to the parking lamp relay

The stop / turn circuits also have fuses on each one, Fuse #36 & Fuse # 42 ( R & L ).

The 7 pin has fuses for the battery charge pin ( hot in run position ) and the reverse circuit ( hot in run & when in reverse ), Reverse is also fuse # 10 to the trailer tow reversing lamp relay & the battery charge pin is fuse # 106 to the trailer tow battery charge relay.

Could be all the fuses are blown, or what you are using for ground on the meter / test light is not a good ground.

fuse able links are hard to find if you dont have a wiring diagram to go by but relays and fuses are easy i would check for any bad fuses and bad relays its not uncommon for most cars to have a breaker style fuse/relay and they do go bad. if your having to have the computer reset i would look into having it tested also.

If this is a new body style 2004, check the shift interlock fuse, cab fuse panel F16.
If the fuse tests good with a meter to both sides ( to ground when pressed down power should be there ) check both the Tan w/ REd stripe wire and the pink w/ light green stripe wire , it would be a case of needing a new shift interlock solenoid.

If this is an old body style truck, check the stop lamp / brake light fuse. The shift interlock uses the same fuse for both.

If you replaced the tail lamps with LEDs in either 2004 version, and did not use load resistors, this could be the source of your problem ( truck thinks the brake lamps are out ). You would need to install load resistors on them.

Not sure what secondary fuel mod you are posting about, can you explain what this is ?
Have you checked the fuel inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel ?
Is this a 2004 New Body style or 2004 Heritage / Lightning ?
If it is a New body style, have you checked / replaced the fuel pump driver module ? This is on the cross member by the spare tire, and some times they get corroded and crack.


The fuel pump is powered from the Fuel pump relay ( non serviceable in the Cab fuse panel ) to the fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump driver module. The PCM is also connected to the fuel pump driver module
The fuel pump relay normally open contact is powered by Fuse #34 ( this fuse also feeds the PCM ). The fuel pump relay coil is powered by the PCM power relay.
If you are testing and the truck has not started, the PCM will shut off the Fuel pump after 5 seconds ( 8 ? ) of not having started. The only way to clear this is to have the truck start, or disconnect the battery.
Have you tested the fuel pressure on the fuel rail ?