We replaced the heater coil which had been bypassed and now the truck want stay running when i come to a stop
If it feels like a stick shift car when you come to a stop and don't push in on the clutch and the engine lugs down and dies, it's most likely caused by the torque converter not unlocking. There is a solenoid that causes the converter to unlock and lock. That is the most likely cause. It may, also, be a broken wire or bad connection.
SOURCE: engine overheating
No water pump issues I am aware off, are you sure you bled the air out of the cooling system? If not fill the overflow bottle all the way full, then use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as you can ( this allows air to go to top of radiator tank), then run the engine at high idle speed until the cooling fan ( I assume the fan works OK?) comes on, but avoid letting the engine get into the overheat area of the guage, if it does turn it off, run water over the radiator until it cools, check the tank and radiator, top off if you need to and repeat above procedure, if this doesn't work you have some other problem like no or little flow in radiator.
SOURCE: 1998 ford expedition heater coil repair
Big Pain - Must remove entire dashboard. Drain the coolant Remove the Freakin' pain in the arse dash Open up the box that house the A/C system core and the Heater core Remove and inspect the blend door for cracks where it attaches to the actuator Check the blend door actuator then cut the metal lines on the top of the heater core off for easy removal From the engine compartment pull the heater core lines through the firewall for easy disconnect and that is it You are now ready to start the re-install process. One thing I recommend is while you have everything apart change the blend door actuator, especially if you see traces of where the coolant was leaking in the box. 9 out of 10 times the coolant leaked out through the actuator and it is just a matter of time before the electrical circuitry in the actuator quits working leaving you with no heat or only heat. When I replaced mine it was still working, but the electrical motor with the spiral gear was making a funny noise compared to the new one. Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for taking the time to answer your FREE question.
SOURCE: How to change a 2000 ford explorer bypass hose?
You have to remove the tensioner assembly, not just the tensioner pulley, but the whole assembly, in order to access the plastic bypass hose.
Be very careful, as these pipes get old, the plastic becomes brittle, and possibly the flange end will break off and remain in the block when you remove the pipe, check the block opening carefully to remove all of the remaining flange.
Also, be very careful when removing the lover pipe nipple into the engine block, if you try to pry the tensioner assembly off the block, you will probably snap off the machined nipple that locates into the block, Ask me how I know!!! Good Luck, it can be done but you need to move carefully and deliberately. (by the way, a rebuilt tensioner assembly costs about $80 US, the pipe is about $6. New tensioner assembly comes with the pipe)
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