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Sounds like A Fuel blockage, check pickup in tank and filter on side. Of lift pump bolted on injector inside the bolt holding the fuel line to inlet side. And blow air back into tank. An accumulation of particles will cause a blockage when fuel is moving and then disperse when the fuel stops moving. .
If the motor has common rail injection it doesn't have a conventional injection pump but it does have a high pressure pump and if the pressure is slow to build due to air leaks, drain back or wear then injection will not begin until the rail pressure is sufficient.
If there is a conventional injection pump it can still suffer similar maladies but will not be capable of generating such expressive codes.
Codes incidentally, often indicate a relay or sensor or something has a fault, though that isn't as simple as it sounds and a code read is only a small step in a diagnostic process. Often it is just as likely the circuit that has the fault - wiring, connections or the ECU itself. Sometimes a fault code is an indication of a fault elsewhere. Other test equipment should be used to verify the fault code and no component should be replaced until it is found to be faulty using independent testing methods and when something must be replaced the circuit should be tested and success verified before moving on to the next stage.
Basics first is the best practice rule and in addition to the obvious basic stuff it is worth noting a good cranking speed is essential and the injector spray patterns and pressures should be tested and while the injectors are out being tested/overhauled why not do a compression test...
I'd Start With Checking The Spark Plugs, This Can Be Done By Pulling Them Out And Setting Them To A Ground And Trying To Start it Result Should Be Spark Obviously. With The Cold Weather Involved Id Try Cleaning My Valves If You Wanna Go The Easy Way Buy A Can Of Fuel Additive Injector Cleaner And Run It through A Full Tank Of Gas.
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