How long has it been since these parts been replaced? Could it be the mechanics fault that it is not right again? ALso, I think you are suppose to reset your codes after repairing the error code issue if I'm not mistaken.
SOURCE: Car takes ages to start if it rains overnight
Hi ....... Sounds alot like you have a grounding problem on your HT leads (central one from coil esp'ly). At night when it's dark open the bonnet/hood and start the engine. Look for any sparking or arching from plug leads, coil or ignition box. Stop engine. Find where your leads come from, four will come from a central point and make sure all conections are tight. Even remove and look for corrosion, only take off one at a time to avoid confusion and when you're happy that they're OK buy some WD40 and spray near coil and over leads and allow to dry off. This will help to prevent moisture to penetrate and will cure the problem short term.
Let us know the outcome.
SOURCE: 97 grand am wont start
It sounds as if you still have a problem with the anti theft system. Possible loose switch wiring in the dash or it was programmed and cycled incorrectly.
SOURCE: 2000 Silverado-4.3 ltre-cranks over-wont start-consistenly
Yes. First, in the fuse block under the hood check INJ A fuse and INJ B fuse. INJ A fuse is circuit 1039 which feeds the coil. If the fuse is OK, replace the coil electrical connector. I stock 2 of these at my dealership because they are needed quite often.
FYI P1351 is an ignition coil control circuit DTC.
SOURCE: My brother has 2001 kia spectra, the battery goes
There is probably a weak diode in the alternator; this will cause the battery to drain slowly and will often not turn on the indicator on the dashboard.
If you want to get your hands dirty, remove the negative battery cable first (always!)
Remove the heavy lead from the alternator terminal that goes to the positive terminal of the battery.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
If the car starts mornings, a bad alternator is pretty much confirmed but you can't drive real far with no alternator to charge the battery.
Any chain auto parts store will test your alternator free but I don't know if that is in or out of the car.
BTW, you can buy a digital meter for under $20 many places today and most will have a 10 ampere range that will allow you to check for a current drain of the kind you now have which is probably under the 10 amps.
One final item; recently the courtesy light switch on the passenger side rear door of my wife's Jeep recently decided to not quite reach anymore and the battery was drained twice before I noticed that 'door ajar' light was telling us that in advance. Even an amp or two will drag a battery down given time.
SOURCE: I have a 2000 dodge durango that wont start. I
Have you checked for your DTC code?? The code may help you address the issue that is keeping your engine from starting.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS
1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle
the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the
radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.
2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument
panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code.
There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and
second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For
example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.
A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get
then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal
condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value,
Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No
crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD
relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of
range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure
Good luck and thank you for using fixya and keep us posted
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