Generator for a 1954 Studebaker is not charging.

Brushes are not in the "voltage regulator" . Brushes make contact with the armature of the alternator or generator and they can last many many years depending on the amount of load (current) that they have to endure during charging operation. When the brushes are worn usually the armature also has excessive wear . Sometimes better to replace the alternator as a unit.

Preliminary checks to the charging system should be made regardless of the fault condition. These checks include:

• Check fuses/fuse links to the generator to make sure that they are not burned or damaged. This condition, resulting in an open circuit or high resistance, can cause erratic or intermittent charging system concerns.
• Check battery posts and cable terminals for clean and tight connections. Clean the posts and cables to verify good electrical contact.
• Check for secure connections at generator output, voltage regulator and engine ground. Also check connection at the power distribution box and harness.
• Check generator drive belt to verify proper tension and no slip between the generator pulley and drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 .
• Check battery for full charge as described

Voltage Drop Testing the Charging System

Will the engine run ok if there is no load on the generator or is it unstable at all times?

Generally that indication implies generator failure. Generator failure can come in multiple forms. A faulty ground will cause the generator not to charge and potentially burn it up. A severed phase wind (remember, your alternator is really a three-phase generator with a six pulse front end rectifier set) will cause the light to intermittently come on along with weak charging output. A voltage regulator failure will cause zero field current in the rotor. A brush failure will also cause a generator failure light to come on and stay on. A rectifier failure (any of the six) will cause the generator not to charge properly and turn on the MIL and generator failure indicator (looks like a battery). The condition of the battery can also cause generator failure, if the battery is defective (buckled plates, weak electrolyte, low water, etc.) it will place a very high load on the generator continuously, causing it to 'full field' the rotor which can cause the rotor to overheat and fail. Never run a generator without the battery terminals connected as this will cause it to fail quite spectacularly. Do not attempt to verify output of the generator with the battery terminal leads disconnected.

If generator failure is indeed the cause, find out why. Generators rarely fail. When they do, it usually is caused by poor ground connections, corroded battery terminals, high continuous loads, electrical faults and poorly-wired ancillary equipment, such as head units, amplifiers, inverters, etc. Always check all these out when replacing the generator. Never run a generator without the battery terminals connected as this will cause it to fail quite spectacularly.

Filaments often burn out, the reasons are: voltage regulator has fault, the voltage is too high; bad contact battery wire, causing the generator no-load voltage is too high; the generator armature and field coil short circuit. If you open the light switch, the bulb burned out immediately, you should check the charging circuit has no circuit. If often burned out light bulbs, check voltage generator voltage regulator is adjusted too high. we also support wholesale bump at online store

most likely cause is the brushes/commutator slip rings are worn and the only answer is a recon unit as without the right tools to change the parts then your stumped ,try buying just the carbon brushes ?? just not for public sale ,get a decent bosch unit this will last the test of time i assure you

12 volt dc motors use brushes and commutators. One or both of your brushes may be making intermittent contact with the commutator bars, or your commutator bars may be bridged with carbon buildup from the brushes wearing down. To check brushes remove the slotted round caps and check them. Look inside the hole after you pull the brushes out. You will see parallel bars of copper. the spaces between all of them should be clear of carbon and debris. the coppers should be shiny.

CHARGING SYSTEM
The charging system is an integral part of the battery and starter systems. Since all of these systems work together, any diagnosis and testing should be done in conjunction.

The charging system is protected by a 12 gauge fusible link located in the A11 circuit. This fusible link is between the generator and the starter.

The generator ground is provided through a case ground in the generator to its attaching bracket. This generator uses a voltage regulator internal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

When the vehicle is running, battery voltage is applied to the generator field terminal through the A142 circuit. This circuit is the output from the contact side of the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay. The ground, or voltage regulated side, of the generator field is controlled by the K20 circuit which connects to cavity 4 of the PCM connector.

When there is current present in the field, and the rotor is turning, the stator in the generator produces a B+ voltage that is supplied to the battery through the A11 and A0 circuits. The A11 circuit is connected to the output terminal of the generator and connects to the engine starter motor battery feed terminal. The A0 circuit is a direct feed line from the battery and connects to the engine starter motor.

Grounding for the system is accomplished at the battery negative terminal. These grounds connect to the engine and body.

HELPFUL INFORMATION
Inspect for a blown fusible link in the A11 circuit between the generator and the starter motor.
other Fusible link goes from the starter to the alternator. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Generator with Integral Rear Mount Voltage Regulator, Internal Fan Type With the key in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the charge indicator lamp I circuit to the voltage regulator. This turns the voltage regulator on, allowing current to flow from the battery sense A circuit to the generator field coil. When the engine (6007) is started, the generator (GEN) (10346) begins to generate alternating (AC) current which is converted to direct (DC) current by the rectifier internal to the generator. This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the battery positive voltage (B+) terminal located on the rear of the generator. Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the stator and fed back to the voltage regulator S circuit, turning off the charge indicator/lamp. With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage at the A circuit. This voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the voltage regulator, and the voltage regulator controls the generator field current to maintain proper generator output. The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in the winter than in the summer, allowing for better battery recharge. With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit (battery sense voltage). The A circuit voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the voltage regulator, which controls the generator field current to maintain proper output. The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in the winter than in the summer, allowing for better battery recharge in the winter and reducing the chance of overcharging the battery in the summer. A fuse link is included in the charging system wiring on all vehicles. The fuse link is used to prevent damage to the wiring harness and generator if the wiring harness should become grounded, or if a booster battery with the wrong polarity is connected to the charging system. Mitsubishi 215-Ampere Generator
The Mitsubishi 215-ampere generator is an internally regulated, brushless unit that is self-current limiting and temperature compensating. The regulator is integral with the generator and the fan is external.

VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical

• Before attempting to test a battery, it is important to give it a thorough examination to determine if it has been damaged.

• Batteries are tested to determine the state of charge and ability to crank an engine. The result of these tests is to show that the battery is either good, needs recharging, or must be replaced.

• Preliminary checks to the charging system should be made regardless of the fault condition. These checks include:
  • Check the fuses/fuse links to the generator to ensure that they are not burned or damaged. This condition, resulting in an open circuit or high resistance, can cause erratic or intermittent charging system concerns.
  • Check battery posts and cable terminals for clean and tight connections. Clean the posts and the cables to ensure good electrical contact.
  • Check for secure connections at the generator output, voltage regulator and engine ground. Also check the connection at the power distribution point.
  • Check the generator drive belt to ensure proper tension and no slip between the generator pulley and the drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 in the Powertrain, Drivetrain Manual.
  • Check battery for full charge.

• Before performing charging system tests on the vehicle, note conditions such as: slow cranking, discharged battery, charge indicator lamp stays on with engine running, charge indicator lamp does not illuminate with ignition switch in RUN and engine not running, etc. This information will aid in isolating the part of the system causing the symptom.
• When a relatively new battery is discharged, test for current drain. The following are some of the most common current drain concerns:
  • Glove compartment lamp stays on with the door closed.
  • Engine compartment lamp stays on constantly.
  • License plate lamp or interior lamp stays on constantly.
  • Other electronic component concerns.