I have a 97 geo tracker when i bought it it had no brakes, ive replaced the rear cylinders and all the lines but i cant seem to get fluid to flow out the reservoir to bleed it out the back. ive tried all the stuff ive done in the past but nothing seems to be working any help would be great
Here's how to bleed them Dale.
Lose the fittings at the master cylinder, you should have two of them , one for the front brakes and one for the rear, get a friend to push the brake pedal ( not too hard, be careful they may spay all over) ; and see if any fluid is coming out with his pedal down tight the fittings back with the pedal down,so you don't get any air in the lines. If nothing comes out you have a bad master cylinder.
SOURCE: how to bleed brakes
Sounds like the proportioning valve is stuck. You may need to break a front bleeder loose and hit the pedal the unseat the valve. Then blead the rearbrakse and then bleed the wheel where you broke the bleeder loose. That should work.
Good Luck
SOURCE: 1998 chevy C-1500 brake problems
Try a clean and adjust on the rear shoes, because sometimes when they aren't properly adjusted they won't seem to work properly. Also there is a common "squishy" petal feeling after brake work on most all larger GM's around that year, wich I have run into several times. Try test driving it, and put a couple miles on it, That usualy helps.
Good luck!
SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid
valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.
SOURCE: Brakes won't bleed?
if this has ABS then u need a special tool to bleed the brakes, the dealer has this tool. The dealer will charge about $50 to do this job
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SOURCE: 1999 VW Cabrio, convertible top will not go down??
the hydraulic pump may have gone out in order to put the top down or up you will have to lower it by hand first under the top motor there is a t- handled valve loosen that to bleed air pressure then you should be able to manually lower or raise the top
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thanks for the help guys, i got it all worked out
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