SOURCE: gear knob removal bmw 318 ci
It's very simple. Involves a bit of fore arm strenght.
It should pull straight off. Just put one hand around the gear knob & your other hand supporting or gripping with both.
Just pull straight up. It shouldn't need much force. A small amount of glue may have been used to help hold it in place.
The knob might come off leaving the plastic sleeve/insert in the shifter. Same again, just grip that & try pull it off. A vice grips should not be neccessary but if you need it be carefull not to apply too much pressure as you don't want to break the sleeve into pieces.
The new knob should have a sleeve with it. Normally it will be inserted & you should be able to just pop it straight on.
Make sure it's lined up properly. You probably noticed on the bare metal shifter that it has a notch normally running across from left to right. Well inside the knob if you can see in you will notice it has a plastic or metal piece that will fit into this notch. This is to stop the knob from spinning around or slipping!
Just push down on the top of the knob & try slide it over the shifter. It might not go down all the way with pushing so a few taps with you palm may be enough if you have big strong hands but if not be carefull & only use a rubber head hammer or something you can hold but won't mark or break the knob.
Put a towel or old t-shirt over the knob & use anythink heavy that you can hold easily with one hand & that has no sharp edges!
I don't think any glue should be neccessary but if you feel it needs a little & the knob is comming off or going on too easy then just a few drops on the sides of the bare metal shifter before sliding the knob back on should suffice!
Good luck!
SOURCE: Hi I'm looking for cylinder head torque settings for a 1992 BMW 316/318 e36
BMW cylinder torque setting all models
According to my service manual as follows.
Cyl head to engine block (torx e12 M10 bolts)
Stage 1 30nm (22 ft – lb)
Stage 2 + 90 degrees
Stage 3 + 90 degrees
Cyl head to lower timing chain cover 10nm (89in – lb)
The tightening sequence is from inside to outside crossover as normal. Loosening sequence is from outside to inside crossover. Remember to set torque wrench at low setting and work gradually up through the whole sequence until you get the desired torque.
SOURCE: small water leak from the
U already have a BUSTED head gasket and maybe a WARPED head. The solution would be removal of the head, replacing the gasket and shaving the cylinder head! But if u insist, try RE-TORQUEiNG/TiGHTENiNG the head bolts w/ additional ft/lbs until the desired compression to fix the LEAK. The other one is BUYiNG an additive coolalnt SEALER, have used this ones for emergency, but it will only last for a couple of weeks, and will somehow block the RADiATOR FiNS! At the age of ur car, it needs a NEW GASKET, so that it last for more years! Hope that might help u out!
SOURCE: I have a 318 I
As per your problem mentioned it indicates that noise is related to faulty valve lifters in the cylinder head.
The hydraulic valve lifter inside the cylinder head.Also this noise is heard if the oil level is low then required.But as you mentioned metal to metal noise in your second comment then its valve lifters.
To see its location.See part number 7 on the fig.Its the valve lifter
You can order this part from here.click the link directly:---
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E46/Sedan/Egypt/318i-N42/LHD/N/browse/engine/valve_timing_gear_camshaft_inlet/
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This will help.thanks.Helpmech.
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