How do you replace the slave cylinder 1983 ranger 4x4
The master and slave should always be replaced as one piece.
The slave is mounted on the outside of the ****** next to the bell housing on the drivers side and is easy to replace just get under there and look at it. To bleed it you will need a vacuum clutch bleeding tool like Mityvac makes.
SOURCE: 2001 ford ranger clutch
have you check the slave cylinder to see if its moving when someone puts there foot on the clutch.
And check the adjustment on the master cylinder.
SOURCE: replaced clutch & slave cylinder on 2001 ford ranger can't bleed
Do a web search on it, and it will tell you the proper way to bleed it.
SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal
I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.
SOURCE: 1983 Ford Ranger Gear grinding
Your clue is probably that when you pump the clutch twice that it works. I don't know about the 83's but the 96 or so on up have automatic clutch adjustment & when the clutch is worn out that part will not adjust anymore and will create the problem, just like th 97 that i have & haven't changed the clutch yet... (too lazy - waiting for it to totally quit before i fix it) So my guess is that if you haven't changed the clutch, pressure plate t/a bearing stuff, you may need to do that. Ford guys should have told you that.... hope this helps, rick
SOURCE: 2001 Ford ranger edge. The gears won't change.
CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER IS IN THE TRANSMISSION GOING TO PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH.YOU HAVE TO DROP TRANSMISSION TO GET TO SLAVE CYLINDER.IF CLUTCH IS LOOSE MAKE SURE BOLTS TO CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE TO CLUTCH IS TIGHT.THAT COULD BE YOUR PROBLEM.
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