Removing crankshaft pulley on 1998 Mitsubishi Montero 2.4L

You remove the belt or betls off the crankshaft pulley. Remove the crankshaft pulley with a crankshaft pulley puller. Remove the old pin, reinstall new pin, then the pulley. Torque to spec and put belts back on

These are usually right around the crankshaft pulley area. They pickup the signals from the front of the engine where the fanbelt goes around the lower pulley. The sensors are usually pointed towards the crankshaft right in that area of the crankshaft pulley.

Crankshaft position sensor A (24x) is behind the crankshaft pulley.

Crankshaft position sensor B (7x) is on the lower back side of the engine block.

i thing you kill the end of crankshaft(happen to my)if the pulley vibrating nothing can hold tied the bolt.you can try looking paste only if you can tie the bolt as much mitsubishi recommend

You are correct, this key does drive both. While I have never tried to remove the keway with out both pulley and lower sprocket you may be able to (my gut says no but anything is worth trying once) I'd position the keyway at the 12 o'clock postion and with a good pair of needle nose pliers see if the key will roll out as you pull up and away with it. If it will not you'll of course have to remove the front of the engine and pull the timing belt, if over 60K miles on belt go ahead and replace with new.

I hope this may have assited and good luck!

Tom

Is this a V6 or 4cyl???>>>(V6) This requires removing the Harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley). Remove (R) front wheel, remove engine splash Guard, Remove crank pulley, remove lower timing belt cover. The Crank sensor is located behind the crank shaft pulley!! I highly recommend having this done by a certified tech, requires special tools. Hopefully this helps!!

crankshaft pulley nuts are very tight,some are 85-90 ft lbs.use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar & socket.put auto trans in park manual trans in gear with emergency brake on.

You will need a very hard drill bit, preferrably reverse thread, and drill it out, and use an easy out to remove.

The only possibility I can suggest is that which is called and 'Easyout.' These are available at parts stores and come (normally) with a sized drill and a special bit with left-hand threads.
First a hole is drilled with the provided drill bit, then the removal bit is screwed into the new hole and turned counter-clockwise which further inserts the removal bit and, if the removal bit does not snap, the broken threaded shank should back out.
I would suggest soaking the broken part with penetrating lubricant first and allowing it time to seep into the threads of the broken bolt.