1995 Ford F150 Styleside Regular Cab Logo

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Anonymous Posted on May 31, 2017

I have a 1996 ford f150 XL.. I am having a/c issues. I just replaced the drier, orifice tube, flushed the system, put new oil in, and r134a. The clutch will not engage, i have power at low and high switches, i checked the ohms and they are both closed.. I am not getting power to the clutch, I checked the fuses, and wiring, and it is all good. I cannot find anything else to look for.. I heard something about a wot relay, but does a 1996 ford f150 have one, and would it affect the a/c?

1 Answer

Jim Rus

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  • Posted on May 31, 2017
Jim Rus
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I assume that you have not been able to properly charge this A/C? If not, use a cotter pin to short the terminals on the low pressure switch. Charge it to the proper pressures. Remove the cotter pin and reconnect the low pressure switch.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 326 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 10, 2009

SOURCE: 2008 Ford F-250 Low beams do not work. High beams are fine.

just remove all the connections as it could be malfunction in the switches and the wirings needs to be rechecked to make it proper.other option could be bad dimmer switch. You will need to replace the turn signal/ dimmer switch as an assembly.to replace you will need to disable the air bag, drop the column, pull the wheel

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 01, 2009

SOURCE: Ford F150 front tires won't engage in 4 wheel drive

look on fire wall pass. side you will see 2 parts with vacume lines attached 99 percent of the time that is what went i had the same problem

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2009

SOURCE: no power to fuel pump or fuel pump wiring harness...

try the electrical ignition switch on the steering wheel colum

Anonymous

  • 984 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 12, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 ford f150 4x4 manual transfer case vacum

The vacuum shift solenoids have power to one side of them at all times.
The GEM applies ground to them, to activate them, after the shift on the fly position confirm from the trans case.
The power to both should be on the White w/ Light Blue stripe wire.
Ground to them ( from the GEM ) is
2WD : Gray w/ Black stripe wire
4WD : Red.

The only TSB I know of is for the 04-06 MY trucks, for the IWE solenoids ( the kind without the water shield ).

Did you jack up the front end ( and support correctly ) turn the key to the run position ( do not start ), and shift into 4WD, and check the front drive shaft ?
If the shaft still turns, the problem is in the transfer case, if not you are looking in the correct place.
The GEM will not signal a vacuum solenoid until the transfer case has shifted into 4L or 4H ( 4 switches that are the return signal to the GEM ). Could be a problem with the connector on the transfer case ( think it is a 8 or 10 pin connector ) to the contact plate position switches in the trans case.

There is a manual front ale cable, but I would think you would want to confirm why the GEM is not signalling the shift solenoids, prior to replacing them
Posilock make a kit for the F-150
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Anonymous

  • 984 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 03, 2010

SOURCE: 1997 Ford F150 Electric Fuel Pump will npt pump

Did you check the fuel inertia switch in the passenger side kick panel ?

The fuel pump is powered :
the fuse to the fuel pump relay.
The fuel pump relay to the fuel inertia switch
The fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump itself.

At the fuel inertia switch in the kick panel, power from the relay is the Dark Green w/ Yellow stripe wire and the pink w/ black stripe wire is the power. from the fuel inertia switch to the fuel pump.

If you jumper the fuel pump relay, you should hear it run. If not pull the fuel pump relay, and check the pins in the relay socket, pin 30 should be the power from the fuse.

50b0c31.jpg

If you have power at pin #30, jumper the relay socket as shown with the red line above, and check the dark green w/ yellow stripe wire at the fuel inertia switch for power.
Press the button on the top of the fuel inertia switch, and check for power leaving the fuel inertia switch on the pink w/ black stripe wire.

This is tests good, check for power at the fuel pump, same pink w/ black stripe wire.
Fuel inertia switch info is in the owners manual, If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp

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Related Questions:

0helpful
2answers

I have a po532/po533 replaced the whole system less evap. Core performed evac it held 29in i recharge the system to one pound fourteen oz and system is cold excellent pressure high and low shut off a half...

There is a lot more to it than that. This is why the service bill is so high. Did you replace the Orifice tube or expansion valve? Did you replace the receiver/dryer? Did you flush the whole system out with solvent? Did you put the oil back in?

The proper steps are:

1. Remove any Freon with a recovery station.
2. Isolate and remove the compressor.
3. Remove and discard the receiver/dryer.
4. Remove and discard the orifice tube/expansion valve.
5. Flush the system with solvent and catch the discharge to check for rust and debris. If any are found, replace the whole system.
6. Replace the orifice tube / expansion valve with new one.
7. Replace the receiver/drier with new one.
8. Replace the oil in the system with fresh oil in the right amount.
9. Connect all compressor fittings on the compressor.
10. vacuum the unit down for at least 4 hours.
11. Recharge the system. Check performance and leaks.
0helpful
1answer

Replaced all A/C major components (compressor, filter-drier accumulator, and orifice tube) except condenser due to a seized compressor and failed clutch bearing. Flushed system and appeared to have no...

It sounds like you've done just about everything except to check if there is a bad or intermittent wire causing this or perhaps your low-pressure safety cutout switch is possible going bad causing the compressor to kick on and off?
0helpful
1answer

How much oil is required for a new AC compressor 91 ford ranger, 3.0, the system is completely empty, (replacing compressor, no oil in it)

System 7 to 9 oz

Condenser 1 oz
Dryer or Accumulator 1 0z
Evaporator 3 oz
Compressor 3 to 4 oz

On most vehicles

You have a big problem---no R12 has been avail for the
last 15 years

SO-- you need to flush every component of mineral oil
& replace with ester or pag,then switch to R134A refrigerant

That may require a compressor built for those pressures &
"o" rings such as the green ones

Need to research what your doing
0helpful
1answer

A/c Compressor clutch issues (electrical)

Assuming you have the system adequately pressurized with gas, check out the low pressure cut off switch. If it is in the open position no current will reach the clutch windings and the compressor will not operate.
0helpful
1answer

Is there a kit to change out the old original freon from my 1986 f150 to the new one being used

unfortunately there is no kit that has been made up, as it was not going to be cost-effective to make them up. What is required to replace is the receiver/drier assembly, the compressor will have to be drained of the oil in it, and then new oil and R134a gas put in.........it normally has to be done by a licensed air-conditioning installer.
0helpful
2answers

What do I need to replace to convert my ac to r134a on a 88 chevy s-10 blazer

need to have the a/c system evacuated and flushed out with the appropriate cleaner.Replace the orifice tube and drier, and purchase a retrofit kit at any parts house. Recharge system with appropriate amount of oil charge and freon. It will take less R134a than it did R12.
5helpful
2answers

AC system's lubrication amount?

The oil spec is PAG 150--68.00 ounces. General Motors issues Bulletin # 02-01-39-004B replacing PAG 150 oil with a lower viscocity oil. Thus, now indicates PAG 46 (P46D) oil for those vehicles.
There is a high pressure side and low pressure side to the system. The high vapor=compressor to the condensor. Low side vapor=compressor to evaporator. Your system will use R134a freon.

The A/C is a sealed system and when the compressor fails it circulates debris throughout the A/C system and contaminates it. Before replacing the compressor several other A/C parts have to be checked or changed.
Typically, the condenser should be flushed to remove any debris or contaminated compressor oil. Use approved flushing agents (aresol or liquid pour types), that evaporate quickly and don't leave any residue in the system. You will also need access to 'DRY' compressed air or nitrogen to push the flush through the system. Nitrogen (an inert gas), is best because it doesn't introduce moisture into the system. You need to do this a couple of times.
Accumulator or receiver drier should be replaced when you are replacing your A/C compressor. If don't replace your accumulator or drier you will probably void your compressor warranty. It's virtually mandintory to replace the orifice tube or expansion valve. The openings are usually about .050" and are quickly plugged. Be sure to clean all hose assemblies internally prior to installing your new compressor. Not doing this could contaminate your new compressor. Flush both ways until the flush agent exiting is clean, you will need to remove the hose assemblies to do this.
After you have cleaned, inspected and replaced all the parts, you connect the vacuum pump and remove the air from the system. Make sure it holds pressure. Then recharge the system with the proper freon and oil to the system specified levels.

No matter why you are replacing the A/C compressor there is a lot of other related work that has to be completed before you install the new compressor. Hope this helps, good luck.
0helpful
1answer

2001 f150 5.4l supercrew 4x4

Hi Homero956!

With the demise and replacement of R-12 Freon with R-134, which, although less of an environmental problem, is not nearly as efficient a refrigerant, your complaint is VERY common for F150s... Add to that Ford's engine control programming that cuts out the compressor when you put extra power demands on the engine as in when you accelerate firmly or are hauling a big load (cargo or trailer), and the problem is then compounded.

There are some things you CAN DO that will help:
  • Clean the bugs and road debris from the front of the condenser coil and radiator at a self-serve car wash..
  • Make sure the radiator/condenser fans are in good shape, and that all fan shrouding is installed and properly mounted.
  • Have an Auto A/C Technician check out your system. It might be time for a major service which would include a system flush and evacuation, replacement of the drier receiver/accumulator, change compressor oil and recharge the system with fresh refrigerant. [Also - the Ford A/C system uses a fixed orifice tube, and the tube calibration (orifice size) affects A/C efficiency - They are color coded and the F150 has two recommended tube options - the BLUE tube is for normal service and is found in most trucks --- But there is also available the extreme service orifice tube which is color coded RED. If you have this servicing done, that would be the time to change the tube --- Consult your A/C technician for his opinion on this]
  • Finally, you can install one of the many available auxialary electric cooling fan kits in front of the radiator/condenser to further improve A/C (and engine) cooling efficiency. The more air moved across the coils, the better the A/C will perform. Look at Perma Cool online, or in the J.C. Whitney catalog, or check with a local auto supply or performance parts store, just to name a few possible sources.
I hope this helps you out, but bear in mind that the F-150 A/C is not known for keeping people cool....

Don't hesitate to post a comment or ask further questions, and let us know how things go...

Thanks!
-WildBill
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