Gauges not working

Low battery voltage can do strange things to the electronics of your vehicle.

There is a known problem with the ignition starter switch that causes this, this is the switch that the ignition key operates when you turn it.

None of my gauges will work, but my turn signal indicators ...

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None of my gauges will work, but my turn signal indicators, high beam ... As we've discussed previously, anything electrical needs a 12 volt feed and ground to work. ... 09/28/2015 There are a number of new products coming in Nov/Dec this ...

my gauges quit working - CarGurus

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CarGurusSep 21, 2013 - my gauges quit working - My odometer, speedometer, fuel, tach, trip, and ... I tried fixing the wire and had the same problem....so I replaced the shift lever and everything is back to ... no gauges will work in dashboard 1 answer.

No dash gauges, but dash lights - Car Forums and Automotive Chat ...

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Feb 6, 2010 - The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gaugesjust don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem ...

Your problem may be in the ignition switch. There is a lot of stuff going on when you turn the key. There is an actuator in the ignition. Normally the car won't turn over when they go bad, but I can't know everything!!!!

There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

A bad connection could be it, possibly a failing relay. One would have to pull some paneling off, possibly the steering wheel covers, to start looking for the problem.
Coming out of the ignition switch will be a start wire, an accessory wire, and a run wire. The run wire is for both the ignition system and for the gauges and warning lights. One splice of this run wire will go to the fuse panel, to power up those fuses that are termed "hot in run or accessory". Or sometimes, the run wire energizes a relay that sends power to the fuse panel. One of these fuses will be for the gauges and warning lights in the dash.
If you have a test light or voltmeter, you could check the fuse terminals for power at those times when the gauges are not working. If the fuse terminal shows no power when the key is on, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. This could be a relay that is not working- probably called an ignition relay-and it may be right around the fuse panel. If the fuse terminals do have power when key is on, but gauges are not working, the problem is between the fuse panel and the dash-will probably need to pull the dash cluster out to look further-possibly the electrical connector or connections at the cluster. If you wiggle the wiring around the fuse panel and the ignition switch and see the gauges move (key on), then you are wiggling a bad connection and can find and fix it.

In order to read your obd code you have to turn the key on and off three times then the fourth time leave it on and watch the check engine light for flashing the code. There is delay before it starts to flash. Then it will flash and pause before it goes to the next number. for example one flash is 1, two flashes is 2, and so on till it flashes 5,5, which is the end of the code. there is a pause between numbers. You will have to try it a few times till you get a feel for it.

Sounds like possibly the ignition switch is going out. Try jiggling the key in the ignition in the on position and see if your lights come back on.

would change the ECU with the chip from the key from a car in scrapyard ,but before you get carried away try another seperate earth on the back of the speedo printed circuit board ,i wouldnt mind betting this is your problem

it sounds like you have blown the ignition fuse for your dashboard. look in your vehicle handbook to see which one it is and change it. hope this helps.