My daughter's car is having multiple electrical issues. I suspect a ground problem. She occasionally loses her dashboard gauges and now one of her tail lights won't work even though the bulb is fine. I'm wondering if this is a common ground problem or two distinct ones. I'm not sure where to look because I don't know where the ground points are for the dash or tail light circuits. Anyone know?
SOURCE: Dash lights out for gauges
have you put a fter market radio in and did you cut any wires? there is a short in the wires going to the lights or the fuse might be blown for it. Dont know if this helps any.
SOURCE: Reliank K car won't start and has "power loss" light come on
Check your battery terminal connections.
SOURCE: Dome/ Trunk Lights don't work
The dome light problem is likely that the crappy switches that get pushed in when the door closes don't make contact when opened. You can find them at the lower right corner of the door sill. (Driver's side door. Same relative position on the other doors.) Take a phillips screwdriver and remove them, AFTER removing the correct fuse. Spray the inside of the switches with contact cleaner. Grab the black nub of the switch and twist it while holding the switch body still.
The trunk has a weird setup. the switch contact is where the trunk latch is. When the trunk is closed, the simple spring switch is held open so the light turns off. When trunk is open, the switch closes and the bulb lights. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager.........Dashboard instruments
You have some wiring problems shorting out that is coming from the dash board so if you or anyone you know how to use a multimeter to check the wireing harnesses plus check any connectors that might be just very touching the connector of dashboard which means a bad connection to dashboard.
SOURCE: intermittent instrument panel outages (ABS then
Do a google search for "98 voyager instrument cluster solder" and you will find an abundance of posts regarding the soldered joints on the main terminal connector on the back of your instrument cluster. If the behaviour is at all erratic and unpredictable, or hitting the dash makes the gauges come back to life, then you are about 99.9% sure it is the solder problem. It takes about 8 minutes to remove the instrument cluster (okay maybe 15), and about 2 minutes to remove the circuit board. By examining the solder joints of the main connector with a magnifying glass, you will probably see cracked or corroded solder on them. Briefly reheat each solder joint with a soldering iron to re-flow the solder. Your erratic gauge behaviour should now be history.
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