My tracker is a manuel trans, the oil pan for this oil has a plug on the bottom of the pan. had the oil changed mechanic cross threaded it, sinced it has very fine threads and the plug is made out of alumn it now leaks aroud the hole of the drain plug, my plan is to put a 0 ring on the screw plug if I c an get the size

The kicker here, is Chevrolet, for one reason or another, dropped the entire Geo line. They still produced the Storm, and Metro for a few years after, but under the Chevy name. Same with the Tracker. I would recommend doing a cross check of the transfer case, and see what, if any, other Chevy vehicles came equipped with the same part. That is one way to get a working part, even if it is discontinued. The other way, is to have a shop tap out a common plug diameter for a modern conventional plug.

YES if you look around you'll find a drain plug repair kit ,its a common problem but there's hope ,a universal fit repair kit ,and with a little knowhow most can do it in about an hour after you fully drain oil ,my question is why the people who did the damage are not paying for all the repairs ? if that's not an option then go with repair kit. hope this helped you ,good luck.
Woody

Many States have laws against auto repair shops doing work prior to obtaining written authorization. You should check with your states dept of motor vehicles. You may be right that the mechanic, and I'm using the term loosely, stripped the oil plug. However, sometimes the plug get stripped by it being removed and replaced many times because of oil changes. Be that as it may, there are repair systems far less expensive than changing the oil pan. You are being SCAMMED! I've worked as an auto technician for 35 years and I'll tell you that there is not nut that broke in the oil pan other than the one that holds the oil plug in. They broke it forcing the cross threaded plug. Don't pay them, if you do, report them to DMV. It is better than taking them to court. What state do you live in?

unfortunately theres no way to prove where the damage was done. maybe you can work something out with the garage to get you a cheap oil pan

pull the drain plug out of the bottom of the pan be careful it may be hot after it has drained take the bolts out of the pan remove the filter and discard in stall new filter clean pan renstall new gasket on pan I use 3m glue to glue gaskek on pan you can use blach ultra or gray ultra do not use blue or red rtv renstall pan and bolts in a chris cross patern its allwas good to use a tork wrinch add flued to trans threw dipstick tube start with three quarts and cheak level it is allwas best to use kia atf

sump plugs are normal right hand threads from the front it will be a counter clockwise direction

you have to get into the trans.dont mess with it you are asking for problems. go by the factory maint schedule in the owners manuel.if filter were required it would say change trans oil and filter

Sorry there is no drain plug for an automatic transmission. If you have a standard there is a plug on the side, you can use a medium sized rachet wrench 3/8" I believe to unscrew the plug and fill with lube until it runs out of the plug.

Back the the automatic transmission. You will have to drive up on ramps or jack the car then remove the transmission oil pan bolts. There will probably be 20 or so of them and they should be 1/2" or 13mm. As the pan loosens the oil will start to run out so try to loosen one corner more than the rest and have your oil pan already there to catch the fluid. You should only be able to drain about 5-6 quarts of fluid so get a pan of appropriate size.

If you are draining the trans fluid it would be a good idea to replace the filter.

Now if this is sounding rather complicated and you just kinda sorta messed up and put in too much trans fluid than you might be lucky and find a small cheap pump or even a suction bulb from your local auto parts store and be able to remove the excess fluid from the trans dip stick hole. Use a rubber hose, vacuum hose works quite well and don't be a bute in the process.

When replacing the oil pan screws, please hand tighten first to prevent any possiblility of cross threading. Also check for metal shaving on the bottom of the oil pan (little is not bad but a lot is indiciative of a needed overhaul)

Good luck

It shouldn't be that big of a deal. If the oil pan is the only part that has oil on it, it is most likely an oil pan gasket or rtv sealant that needs to be replaced. If you have actual holes in the pan then your problem is probably bigger. Depending on how bad the rust is, getting those fasenters out might present a problem so I would try turning a couple before draining all the oil. If the bolts turn then drain the oil from the plug as if you were doing an oil change. There are twelve of these bolts and there is a proper untightening and tightening sequence which is difficult to explain without a diagram but try and work in a spiral pattern from the center. Once it is off make sure you scrape all rtv off and any oil residue otherwise it will leak again. Re-apply rtv or whatever ford recommends and when it is ready, put it back trying to tighten the bolts from the center working your way out in a criss cross spiral pattern. Hope all goes well