89 suburban stalls while driving

Hello! This is Saailer at your service...You have to many solutions for any human to deal with...FIRST...Tell me what engine is in the vehicle; Be specific...SECOND...The "check engine light" on your suburban will be the brake light in the speedometer cluster. There is no actual check engine light on your model...Your vehicle is On Board Diagnostic I (OBDI)...There is a plug called the ALDL connector...See picture below... It is located on the drivers side mounted on bottom of dash or back up under it... Short A and B together with a paperclip or wire; With key on engine off and watch " light for blinking... Each code repeats itself 3 times....Example: "blink" pause "blink" "blink" is code 12 "blink" "blink" pause "blink" is 21...Remember each code will repeat 3 times then go to next code if you have many codes this will take a while be patient...The last code is 12 Code 12 is always the first and last code, this tells you that it is in diagnostics (first 12) Last 12 means end...Go to the link below for a list of codes...When you have a code/codes send them to me and I'll take it from there...Guru..saailer

http://www.gmtuners.com/OBD1_DTC.htm







I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Sounds like it's leaning out this causes the rev up.. it's a fuel problem check the filter. i take them off and with my fingers on both ends of the filter i shake it vigorously and dump the remaining fuel out of the filter on the driveway too see what is in my filter, do this every time and you know after the second time how often you should be changing your filter.. suburbans like there fuel and need frequent filter changes.. around a 20 fix if yo do it yourself ... jay florida

Wow! This seems to be a record on replies. At this point, I would (try) to drive until the tank was close to empty and then drop, and invert it. This sounds an awful lot like heavy particulate stuff in the tank that drops off when the pump isn't pumping and is then picked up again until too little fuel can pass through, gagging the engine.
An old Isuzu/Chevy LUV we bought at a DEA auction had the remnants of plastic film that had been used to wrap pot for smuggling into the US.After the tank was pulled, we found maybe 10 sq. inches of the stuff that had caused the problem.
Good luck!

An 89 Suburban would be difficult to get codes from considering that it is either OBDI or OBD0. That out of the way you should be focusing on the issues you have corrected and looking a issues that older vehicles have.
I am going to provide you with a check list of things I would look for if this vehicle was in my garage;
1. fuel lines.
2. fuel flow.
3. fuel volume.
If these Items check out then I would move on to the stalling conditions. When does it stall? Cold starts, Hot starts, After a few miles? Only on Take off? When the vehicle is shifted out of reverse/ into drive and vise versa?

These items need to be addressed before I take any thing into consideration. Let me know what you have and I will get back to you promptly.

ZiM

On a side note, I believe this is the throttle body injection motor, In which case there are a plethora of issues that can resolve a stalling problem, and why I need such thorough input from you.

Sounds like to me the throttlebody might be worn out I would either rebuild or replace the throttlebody.The throttlebody houses the fuel pressure regulator which its self could be bad.You can get a repair kit from www.rockauto.com for about $30.00

Did you replace the fuel pump pump connector at the top of the fuel tank?? It is a known problem, the connection gets hot and the connectors inside the plastic shell loosen up, this causes a loss of voltage to the fuel pump at times and a lean condition causes the stall out with the momentary rev up of the engine just prior the stall event. Also the ECM computer control module can be defective as well as things like corroded grounds and problems in the engine end of the wiring harness, none of these problems will leave a ECM fault code when they act up.

Exactly as Jay says but DONT dump it on your drive !
It wille at ashphalt !
Also do it on a clean paper towel in a tray as this often indicates what type of contaminant you are getting.
EG. water, metal (rust), dirt etc.

Since there is no check engine light lit, I tend to believe that it is a problem in the fuel system. It is the only system that can cause shutdown without setting a code somewhere. As I recall, the TBI units ( looks like a carb, but has a single, or double low pressure fuel injector inside instead of a venturi ) use a pressure regulator in the return line that can fail. when this happens, the fuel pressure drops and the car stalls. In some GM TBI systems the fuel pump connects to the steel fuel line with a short section of rubber hose to dampen motor noise. I've seen a situation where the rubber section became cracked, preventing the injector from recieving enough pressure to operate. This problem presented itself as stalling out when trying to pull out from idle under load.

Not really , what happen with the gas tank .

Try cleaning the throttle body out. then remove and clean the Idle Air Control valve. this may help. as long as you are getting fuel. also check for a vacuum leak in hoses or the manifold itself. good-day ! make sure air filter is clean and free of dirt. you may want to clean manifold air flow sensor also.

Wow, you certainly received many comments about your problem. I will provide a link address for used parts for your older vehicle. Car-parts.com is a listing service that is free and can be International as need be. You put in a FREE request for a needed part and you get a contact list, sometimes photos, prices, parts grade, and all the Contact info you need. Parts are shipped to your door, some have limited warranties. If you need a fuel box, body parts, this may be helpful in the future.

It would not take much to check the Coil as they can short out intermittently, but would not cause an engine to REV up. The inducer pickup in the distributor can do that as some of the engine controls rely on measuring Resistance in the circuit and having a failing component overheat can produce all different kinds of resistance.

Would like a post when you finally find the problem.

Need my head under the bonnet and a drive to be honest to pass an opinion as american vehicles have a lot more on them for this age than ones i work on in europe but have you looked at the wiring loom as some american cars and quite a few europeon ones as well suffer from the wiring looms -- the insulation on the wires breaks down and crumbles up causing all sorts of weird and wonderfull faults .just like this

Have vechicle hook up to a scanner see if torque converter clutch solenoid faulty or torque converter has internal damage.GM torque converters been known to fail. transmission shop has scanner see if torque converter still locked up when you apply brakes torque converter solenoid suppose release cause torque converter to unlock leave over drive to keep engine from stalling out like a clutch type vechicle. when you apply brakes.if transmission okay you have intake leak or if engine not well tuned up cause transmission trouble.

I had a 94 come in and it turned out to be the engine control box. when this little guy started to go it would wait till the truck got warm and just dye. It never set a code and it gave no signs of when it was going to dye, i just know when i sprayed throttlebody cleaner in there it would run....Long story short it fixed the problem.
best luck to you

Try re entering vehickel information into code reader,i just did this with my 1988 GMC pickup, which does have a service engine soon light in the instrument panel.
I first tried scaning by just pluging the scaner in( at the adl connecter) it asked me to check to see if cabel was connected and key was on, (service engine soon was lit)
I tried two, or three, times, same result.then i chose the menue on the scanner selected the correct information concerning my truck+8th digit in vin #.
after i did all this the scanner showed me the codes and told me what they were.
The parts store told me they couldn't scan an auto older than 1996, so i bought my own which can read both OBD 1, and OBD 2,( they were selling them at the same parts store)
You might try seting the scanner up this way,maybe then it will show the codes for you.
also check the wiring on your engine for lose plugs,or connectors, and look or lose or broken hoses as well.
I hope you find it!

Since youve tried every thing with fuel pump.This would seem to be a problem
with electric to throttle body or injectors that control fuel flow.THE Speeding up of the engine would indicate leaning of fuel before it shuts off. check electric and make sure injectors or throttle body are not clogged
Hope This Helps

If there were no impurities found in the fuel filter then it's not likely dirt but it could be water. So if there's allot of fuel in the tank add some fuel treatment for water removal other wise drain the gas and replace with new gas. And if problem continues Check the distributor cap for damage and moisture then Also check the spark plug wires. One at a time for wear, damage etc , and check out a plug or two, be sure to use the rubber boot to disconnect the wire. Check inside the boot for corrosion and pull the plug with correct fitting socket wrench. Once plug is free check it for carbon build up, oil etc. Also check the emissions control label under the hood usually above the radiator for gap specifics. If it's basically clean and gapped right just replace plug then wire. And continue checking other wires, if you don't run across a bad wire and the plug you first pulled was good no need to pull more plugs.

Du a scan that runs a data stream--tech ll preferred-----codes or no codes just giv general answer--sounds like a dirty idle control motor or fuel pressure regulator--car is over 20--mite hav vacuum leaks or egr issue too