1992 Buick Park Avenue - BRAKES

Pretty sure your car has struts on the rear and the shock function is part of the strut. Replacing struts is more difficult than replacing shocks and they should be replaced in pairs.

Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

If you have a manual for your vehicle, check how to bleed the system. Certain vehicles need to be bled in a certain order of sequence. If you are using a one man bleeding kit, when you don't see air bubbles in the clear tube but see only fluid, then it is bled properly.

Your Buick has front disc brakes...and rear drum brakes...the usual concern is the front pads as they are used more...these are the easiest pads to replace...as you only need to remove the caliper from the rotor with 2 bolts to lift off...Be sure to push the piston all the way back into the caliper to install new pads...rotors are pop offs too...The rear drum is different...the brake shoes are held on with clips and springs...try keeping one of the shoe assemblies intact while you switch out the other shoes...be sure to inspect the rear wheel brake cylinders for possible leaking...usually an oil build up inside the brake drum...these are inexpensive and should be switched out on a 93 Buick...:) Hope this helps.

Yes, you have to pre bleed the M/C. After market parts stores sell a kit that allows you to bleed it easily....It is difficult to get air to go downhill.

after prebleeding M/C, do not let it run dry while bleeding the brakes.

if your back brakes are stuck on then jack up back end remove wheels take of parking brake first though and hit drums with hammer or if it has discs remove caliper by removeing two bolts on back of caliper and remove pads use large pliers or grips to squeeze in the 2 pistons then loosely asemble and put on park brake and see if the brakes lock on again if so repeat and try again untill they are free and dont leave a car parked for a long time with park brake on use blocks under wheels or they will seize

1. Remover wheel
2. Remove brake caliper
3. Remover rotor
4. Remove 35mm Castle Nut
5. Remover 3 bolts behind strut assembly
6. UNclip any ABS sensor wires
7. Pull hub out of strut assembly but be careful not to pull CV joints out of axle

yes they do

I would look to the brakes first,from your description the trans is transfering power to the drive wheels.Have the brakes ever been done?The car is 17 years old and if the brake system has never been serviced it is possible there is sludge built up from the brake fluid breaking down,the sludge can cause the brake cyliders to stick open.Check the fluid at the master cylinder for color it should be clear and almost a yellowish blue in color,if its kind of brownish and cloudy it has gone bad and may be causing the brakes to stick.Comment back if you need more assitance.

The leakage usually comes from a defective brake cylinder, or a poorly sealed brake line (there is a copper gasket that needs to be replaced when the unit is serviced. If the old gasket is used, it will leak.