20 Most Recent 1993 Buick Park Avenue Questions & Answers

Check oil level, 1993 cars have a lot o miles on them and engines wear our. The oil light comes on just before engine damage begins. Stop driving and check oil level. If you have add more tan 1 quart, your engine is losing oil, either by a leak or oil consumption cause by worn rings, piston or engine bore. Good luck

Sounds like someone took out the instrument panel and didn't reinstall it right.

Try putting in a.c. leak detector first to pinpoint where the leak is coming from...That can be a costly repair if you take it to a shop especially if you can't find the leak yourself !! Well best of luck..hope this was helpful

Seen this "mystery drain" many times. Check spark at the battery to see how big the drain is. For this simple test, blow away any (explosive) battery charging fumes. Leave one terminal on and gently touch the other to its post in fairly dark surroundings. Then try it again with the wires taken off the alternator. Your spark is now probably much less. Usually bad diodes leaking electricity backwards through the alternator cause this drain. Replace the alternator or the diode pack inside it. Some mechanics recommend actually measuring the drain.... hahaha. OK whatever.

It only appears this way, they are accessible with no big problem.

Is this the warninng that you are not wearing your seat belt? The way to make it stop is to wear your seat belt.

Since you are having a new battery and alternator the charging circuit of the electronic charging unit is a possible suspect.
All what is required is to check the charging voltage when the engine is started, if there is no increment of voltage when the engine runs the alternator then the connection from the alternator must be checked. Check the output from alternator, check the relay box which contains the charging unit. It can be a failure of the rectification or the stabilising circuit, the unit must be replaced.

The proper diagnosis would be to get your car to your dealership whom can help you out a little more better.

A lack of air flow from the heater duct assemblies can be from a variety of problems. One common problem is the AC evaporator core fins being plugged with dirt/debris/mold causing a lack of airflow from the heater fan. Another common problem can be an inoperative/sticky blend door in the heating /AC unit causing the airflow to be misdirected giving the feeling of lack of airflow. There may also be a problem with the heater fan itself not spinning as fast as it should to create adequate airflow

Check for a good spark at the plugs ,if ok check fuel pressure and fuel flow. fuel pressure should be around 300 kpa, Flow around 500 ml, in 30 seconds.

check for a bad alternator, car running there should be at least 14 to 14.2 volts at battery. When off the battery should read at least 12.7 or better. if below 14 volts, alternator is going bad. less than 12 volts when off. battery is bad. It sounds like there is not enough voltage to keep car running.

door switch is bad or disconnected If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

it depends on what fuse is used 5 to 30 amps, factory outlets are normally 20 to 25 amps If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

Turn your car on and press the parking brake down, then turn your car off. Follow you parking brake arm all the way up and you will see a little black button, that is your brake switch. It is only held there by one or two small bolts or screws on either side or both. Remove them and pull down and it should side off. Unplug from old switch, plug in new switch and install. Hope this helps..

This model Park Avenue has boo coo interior lights...they are triggered at both front doors, and limited with the back doors...Each door has a contact accentuator switch ...locate each one, should be on front side of door they make contact with the interior door trim...spray each one with PB Blaster and wipe way excess...this will assure they are not stuck...A radio on/off sometimes means a bad alternator or loose serpentine belt, be sure to have your system checked for free at your nearby auto parts store so you don't get stranded...Hope this helps.

Basically, jack up the vehicle and support it on jack stands, remove the nut on the end of the axle, outer tie rod end and ball joint. Split the tie rod end and ball joint from the spindle assembly. Gently tap the end of the axle to loosen from the wheel bearing assembly. Once loose pull the spindle assembly outward while pushing in on the end of the axle. Once the axle is free from the spindle housing. Will need to apply gentle pressure on each side on the inside CV joint to get the axle to release from the transmission. There is usually a "C" snap clip on the end of the axle in the transmission which may make it a little stubborn to get out. Be sure to not damage the seal where the axle goes into the transmission or you will have a leak

Is there a belt slipping? If so, you should be able to hear it squealing.

Under the drivers side of dash...look at the new one to help find...does the old one still make noise? Look up higher, you are looking in the right place...actually you have 2 flasher units in your P/A