2003 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

At a local Automotive store.

You know you can take it to a dealer or local shop So your question is can you replace them Maybe if you can find something on You Tube Video to get an idea what is involved If you want to change colors,forget that Some of the switches may have to be replaced to replace a burnt lamp & the colors will be what you get when the vehicle was built as new Need to provide the complete story when you come here All we can do is guess & point you in some direction

There's rod in door that attaches to the key cylinder pull up or down on the rod with a pair of pliers needlle nose works best

needs service. get it service fast, or it can get worse. ever price a new tranny? check level first, dont guess, use the instruction on how to do that. its not like the engine oil level checks at all , read the method do not overfill it. ATF levels check is in most operators guide, if missing that means its FSM covered. factory shop manual

Bad sencors where the door jams are check the wiring to all of the sencors and see if they might be grounding out

Error Code: P0154 Description: Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 1 , Bank 2 - No Activity Detected Problem areas: - Wiring. - Open circuit in signal wire, between Heated Oxygen sensor 1, Bank 2 and ECM. (Must check and confirm) - Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S). - Engine control module (ECM).

- Check the heater pipes routing. - Heater radiator. - Heat control valve. - Control panel.

How does it overheat ? On the highway, at idle, both ? Are you sure the water pump is working , and the cooling system does not have air pockets ? Are both radiator hoses getting hot ?

If your directionals are functioning, then it is most likely a loose wire or a fuse. However if they are not working then you've got more issues. Please give more information.

The light tells you the alternator is not working. If it does NOT light, that suggest the alternator is working. This sounds like a discharge problem, not a charging problem. If so, it is not a DIY for you.

check the condition and tension of the drive belt have the alternator test for correct out put as there may be a faulty diode and it is charging ac current so the battery is doing all the work and will eventually go flat.

remove the oil and use the conventional one.

The wire to the temp sensor on the engine block has disconnected somehow or the temp sensor has gone bas which is pretty rare but not impossible. A sensor is usually a brass looking plug that is screwed into block and will have a single wire coming from it to the gauge.

Most vehicles have a container (even though only the cap and upper neck may be visible) located under the hood on the passenger side of the engine compartment just behind the front bumper. The cap probably has an image on it of a windshield wiper with spray rising in an arc from bottom to top. It should be a snap-on/snap-off cap with a retainer that encircles the throat of the fill tube, and when you remove the cap, there may be a plastic strainer in the throat.

change your fuel pump float in the tank

Could be a problem with the alternator, or the hydraulic brake system.I would check the brake fluid in the master cyl, and then have the alternator output checked.

is it the battery light that is on if so can be alternator fualty,fanbelt that came off.If it is the brake light your disc pads can be worn down to where it needs to be replaced.or brake fuid is needed in brakefluid reservoir,top-up and if it drops again you have a leak.

battery terminal problems can be handled with simple steps Firstly remove both terminals and clean posts with sand paper. clean inside terminals until shiny metal. Remove corrosive gunk with a mixture of sodium di carbonate(baking soda from the kitchen). It will fizz up and neutralise the battery acid on the terminals and on top of the battery Was clean --replace the terminals --- and use crc soft seal to further protect the terminals from a reoccurrence of the problem

Where to begin.Any chance you can take the truck back for a refund ??If not, you have some major expenses ahead.If the oil is in the cylinders, the odds are you have rings and valve guide wear which would require rebuilding the engine. Replacing the valve cover gaskets would only be a concern if the oil is on the outside of the spark plugs. Fixing one thing such as rings or valves with that many miles on the truck would not be realistic.The bearings and oil pump and so on would have 192k on them.The timing belt and water pump should be replaced every 75,000 miles, so you should be on the third one now and another due at 210k.The big issue is the mileage on the truck. Replacing or rebuilding the engine now would be a big investment on a truck that is close to the end of life regarding the rest of the components such as suspension and transmission. The 3.0 engine and drive train have a life expectancy of 200k in most situations. Not to say it can't last any longer, but the odds go down after that number.

Check to see if there is wiring faults along the path to the alternator to the battery. It may be receiving a power surge. Check the wiring.