Top 20 2005 Chrysler Pacifica Questions & Answers

question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. No, it just has the Integrated Power Module in the engine bay.

Chrysler Pacifica (CS; 2004-2008) fuses

Fuse-Box.info https://fuse-box.info > chrysler > chrysler-pacifica-cs-... In this article, you will find fuse box diagrams of Chrysler Pacifica 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008, get information about the location of the fuse panels ...

• Fuse Box Diagram Chrysler

  https://fuse-box.info > Home > Chrysler Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Chrysler 300 / 300C (Mk1/LX; 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010).

Chrysler Pacifica (crossover) (2003-2007) fuse box ...

imgVEHICLE.com https://imgvehicle.com > chrysler > fuse-box An Integrated Power Module is located in the engine compartment near the battery. This center contains maxi fuses, mini fuses and relays. A label that ...

Chrysler Pacifica 2005 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker ...

CarFuseBox https://www.carfusebox.com > chrysler-pacifica-2005-fu... Apr 6, 2022 - Chrysler Pacifica 2005 Fuse Box/Block Circuit Breaker Diagram ; 2, C51 18LB/BR, Fused Rear Booster Fan Relay Output ; 3, W4 12BR/OR, Front ..

Question edited to put year in full. Question moved to model category. You have two unrelated issues. The air bag light is on because there is a fault with it. Only by checking DTC Codes will tell you this issue. It could be the clock spring connection, it could be the sensors. The Horn issue is probably the horn relay, relay R9. https://fuse-box.info/chrysler/chrysler-pacifica-cs-2004-2008-fuses ..

https://www.fixya.com/cars/t14082610-evap_canister_located_2005_chrysler

I looked up fuel tank filler neck in online parts book. At the gas cap, is there three screws holding the top part of filler neck? If so, remove the screws. Lower part of filler neck, where it attaches to fuel tank, is there a hose with hose clamp? Take the hose clamp loose. Do you have to safely raise and support the vehicle in order to remove filler neck? W/o being able to look at it, I don't know? good luck

Which fuse(s) blow?

Likely the shudder is ABS activating which in itself shouldn't cause fuses to blow. And a blown ABS fuse shouldn't affect the transmission. So I expect more than one fuse is blowing which would imply inappropriate connection between systems (short).

What are road conditions? If clear dry pavement then ABS should not be activating unless severve extreme braking. If snow and ice, then ABS will likely activate and shudder.

Likely there are stored OBD codes which would give direction.

When you replace fuses, try leaving out the ABS fuse. You won't have ABS (pump brakes if lockup) but if the problem abates you can still get around and have it serviced at your earliest convenience.

There were 2 directions that I found. Here they are:

1. With the engine off, turn the ignition switch to "On" without starting the engine.
2. Within a 10 second interval, push the accelerator pedal all the way down slowly three times within 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the "LOC" position.

Second one is: Step 1 Turn the key in your ignition to "ACC." Do not start the engine. Step 2 Press the "Step" button. This button is located on the instrument panel under the display that tells you how many miles until the car needs to have the oil changed again. Step 3 Press the "Reset" button until the display shows "3000 Miles to Service." Turn the key to the "OFF" position and remove it from the ignition. The oil monitoring system has been reset. Hope this solves your issue.

if any codes have scanned for problem no codes --bad gas -injector[s]- skipped timing - plugs --wires - coils -

I am not familiar with the model so I am not aware of any quirks it might have. It has to be assumed the oil light is telling the truth and there is in fact little or no oil pressure on initial start up. An oil switch doesn't put the light on at zero pressure but whenever the pressure falls below whatever the minimum rating of the specified switch happens to be - the lowest I have encountered is 4lb and others have been as high as 12lb sq in. I have encountered similar problems before and on all occasions except two it was caused by oil drain back - due to time and gravity the oil in the lubrication system would drain back into the oil pan causing a "dry start". The causes for this have variously been a low oil level, an excessively worn oil pump, a fractured or displaced oil suction pipe or the wrong oil filter. This refers to the canister type or spin-on filter, some of which contained a valve to prevent drain back. The valve wasn't incorporated into the offerings of many aftermarket suppliers. The other two instances were caused by a partial blockage of the suction pipe gauze filter by the collapse or pushing up of the steel oil pan after being heavily grounded.

The TCM is located on top of the transmission right below the exhaust tubing that wraps around to the back. There is a wiring harness with an 8 mm bolt on top of the TCM

http://www.underhoodservice.com/servicing-the-chrysler-3-5l-engine/ You might take a look at this article. On a fully warmed up engine at idle, the oil pressure, 5psi min. So says my database. You might be able to use an analog gage in place of the oil pressure sending unit, to double check oil pressure.

Most common cause is water or corrosion in the master switch. All the wiring for each window goes thru that switch

Does or has anyone else seen this problem and know whats causing this malfunction? ///// Could be a number of thing's , testing the electrical circuit's with a DMM - digital multi-meter is the way to find the problem . What fixes someone else's vehicle very rearly fixes other . Unless of course it is a problem with the TIPM - totally integrated power module . Electronic control module . Chrysler has a recall on these . Your best bet mite be to take it by the dealer an have it checked out ,

Best solution www.reliable-store.com has books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it. service/repair/owner's/maintenance manual with parts info, fuse box, gear box, PCV, torque specs,coiling, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything Worth it

hi there. A car that jerks when starting it, when accelerating or whilst you're driving is showing symptoms that something is wrong, though there can be many causes: it can be problems in the starting system, fuel, engine or the exhaust pipe. You may even notice that your car engine light has come on to warn you of a problem. Getting to the problem at the first symptoms can avoid more serious break-downs. In one HOWTO we'd like to give you some advice so you know all the possible reasons and answer your question: why is my car jerking? Contents

1. Car jerking caused by a blocked catalyst
2. Jerking caused by a fault in the spark plug
3. Car jerking because of a drained acceleration cable
4. Car jerking because of dirty injectors
5. Car jerking because of the motor winding
6. Accumulated waste can cause the car to jerk
7. Car pulling.
8. Car jerking caused by a blocked catalyst Car jerking can be caused by a blocked catalyst, which leads to gases not being ejected as they should be. The result is that, until the car doesn't rev, the car jerks. If your car has a blocked catalyst you will also notice the following symptoms apart from the jerking.

   Symptoms

   • The 'Check engine' light will turn on
   • Your car jerks when accelerating
   • The car's fuel efficiency will have dropped
   For more extended information, take a look at our article on the symptoms of a blocked catalyst. The best you can do if your car is jerking due to a blocked catalyst is to visit a trusted mechanic to fix it. Jerking caused by a fault in the spark plug Another cause for jerking can also be a fault in the spark plug or one of its cables. You will know this is the case if your car jerks when you start it in the morning. The symptoms are very similar to a blocked catalyst, but if it's a problem with a spark plug, you'll notice the following too:

   Symptoms

   • The engine will make even more noise than it usually does, like that of an airplane.
   • It jerks when accelerating but also when you start the car
   In this case, you can solve the problem yourself by changing the spark plug. If you don't have the skills to change the spark plug yourself make sure a professional solves this problem. It is very important to keep the spark plug clean, so you can avoid car jerking and other more problems. Car jerking because of a drained acceleration cable A car jerking can also be a result of the acceleration cable being very worn out. You will notice because of the following symptoms apart from the jerking:

   Symptoms

   • Your car takes extra time to respond when you press the accelerator and starts jerking.
   • If you take a look inside, you will also notice that the outer covering of the acceleration cable will be damaged.
   The best you can do is change it as soon as possible, as the car will stop at any moment if you leave it to break. Take the vehicle to a mechanic to solve the problem. If your car has this problem, take a look at our article to know all the reasons why your car jerks when accelerating to find out what it may be or try adjusting the acceleration cable if you are handy with cars.
9. Car jerking because of dirty injectors Another cause for car jerks are dirty injectors. This is not such a serious problem but should know it needs solving too. You will notice your car is jerking for this reason if:

   Symptoms

   • Your car also loses power
   • Your engine misfires frequently and jerks and stutters frequently and/or continuously while driving normally.
   It's best to clean them regularly to avoid costly reparations. You can do this yourself using a specific cleaning kit, which are quite cheap and can be found almost everywhere. Car jerking because of the motor winding The car's engine/motor winding can be another reason for car jerking. Wear of the engine's winding is most likely caused by the engine being put under stress - i.e. through hard acceleration.

   Symptoms

   • If your car has more than one winding and one of them is broken, the car will jerk.
   • In the case there's only one winding, the car will not start.
   The only way of knowing if this is the case is through the use of an Ohm meter, so if you don't own one it's best you check with a mechanic to know if this is the reason your car is jerking.
10. Accumulated waste can cause the car to jerk Jerking can also mean the fuel filter is blocked because too much waste has accumulated. To make sure this is the case you can learn how to tell if your fuel filter is bad. If this is your case,go to your mechanics to solve the problem or you can also try to clean your fuel filter at home. These are the most common causes of a car jerking, however, your car could have another problem that needs the help of a specialist. If you're not sure of what is happening to your car it's better to bring it to a mechanic. The specialist will find the root of the problem.
11. If you'd like to read similar articles to Why is my Car Jerking - All Possible Reasons, we recommend you browse around our Car Maintenance and Repair category.

milky color is most likely oil from somewhere. I would give is a good cooling flush and see how long it takes to come back else need more information

My personal suggestion would be to go for these repair catalogs. I know this website www.reliable-store com that i used to buy them from, and they have pdf online it was very good manual. Go ahead, I bet.

Most likely you have a low charge of refrigerant in the a/c system.May be time for a service of the a/c system.

Para abrir la puerta trasera el?ctrica, presione y suelte el bot?n "Levantar puerta trasera" en el control remoto de entrada sin llave dos veces en cinco segundos. Alternativamente, puede presionar y soltar el bot?n "Levantar puerta trasera" - el bot?n derecho, atr?s - en la consola superior para abrir la puerta trasera el?ctrica.

This is not going to be a DIY fix. Get it to a transmission shop.

I tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my ford explorer. it wont move forward or reverse, engine is good both solenoids for forward and reverse work. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and works perfect! got it from www.reliable-store.com