20 Most Recent 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country - Page 9 Questions & Answers

First thing you need to do is check codes. Turn the ignition switch on and off three times, leaving it on the third time. The check engine light will flash. each group of flashes is a number numbers are two at a time so three flashes followed right away with three more would = 33 etc. (longer pause, then next numbers) Write them down and check in a haynes and or chiltons manual to find the meanings.
At this point a code 21 should be ignored (o2 sensor) as it can come on for a number of reasons but will not turn the engine off) The "end code is always 55. that is not a failure code but just tells you that the diagnosis is over. If you get a code 11, you should pay attention to that one. It is for the crank position sensor which is often a common failure. You need to listen for the fuel pump with the key on as well. If the pump or pump relay has failed the engine will also not start (don't ignore the filter)
Individual component tests can be done using the manual as a reference and a digital volt-ohmeter for testing.
Worst and most expensive thing you can do is to just change parts with no tests to verify the part is bad. That can get very expensive very fast!
Good luck.

Their will be 4 or 5 bolts holding the housing to the fire wall that you have to get to from the engine compartment and maybe one of the housing that has a ground wire on it.

it's all vacume controlled doorsyoull haveto get under the dash tose if there being activated

check 4wd switch on the 4wd gear,may be need to clean or replace

sounds like a bad coil pack

You may have to grab a sheet of paper and draw this out.
Standing in front of the engine, on the left side of the head, assign the bolts the following numbers from from to back: 8,4,1,5,9. On the passenger side, front to back, assign the bolts the numbers: 7,3,2,6,10.

Step 1: Tighten all bolts to 22 ft lbs.
Step 2: Tighten all bolts to 45 ft lbs.
Step 3: Tighten bolts #1,2,3,4,5,6 to 110 ft lbs.
Step 4: Tighten bolt #7 to 100 ft lbs
Step 5: Tighten bolts #8,9,10 to 110 ft lbs.

Be sure to follow that procedure so you don't warp your head or damage the head gasket.

On the fuse block, Cavity 3, 5 Amp.

Also can review the Section-8WR-Wiring-Diagrams-95XJ8WR/d/19432007 for other wiring diagrams and more details.

Good luck (remember rated this help).

Check fuses in power distribution box and auto shutdown relay. Also attempt to code check pcm if you can...don't think there will be any codes but make sure it has power.Also check to see if you have a white ballast resistor on the driver side fender...I think that sends power back to the pump. In that fails, make sure that the wiring below the really is actually sending power out...the relay may be fine but if wiring is corroded underneath it won't help

Spray some engine starting fluid into the intake and see if it will fire. This will indicate whether you have a fuel or ignition problem. Take out a spark plug or use a spare one and with it grounded against the engine have someone crank the engine while you observe the spark. It should be a strong blue spark firing on a regular pattern. If not take out the coil lead from the distribuor and connect it to the plug and try again to bypass the distributor. You should hear the fuel pump start momentarily when you put the key to the on position. Also their should be fuel pressure in the fuel rail. You can check for fuel by undoing the cap and pressing the schrader valve on the rail. Their will be a tiny spurt when you press the valve core but be carefull. Once you have done the basic tests you can start to home in on the probem when you begin to isolate it.

No, if they are wet you would be getting too much fuel.There is a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail.A pressure tester is available at any parts store for 8-12 dollars.They will be able to give you the specs for the pressure also.

If it won't turn the motor over it's probably the starter motor or battery Also check lead connections are clean and tight

This could be a few different things;1.Sticking throttle linkage.2.The choke may be not adjusted properly or sticking.3.The idle adjustment may be wrong.4.Somtimes valve clearances may bring the idle up.Check the throttle sticking and the auto choke first.These are the most common.Hope this helps

check accy relay under driver side footwell, bottom of dash near lower part of steering coloum. also check fuses in top left corner of engine compartment.(passenger side).

easy to do once fan cover is dropped back but the oil feed pipes for the gearbox ,with the plastic clip in are a bind they break ,to do it properly costs 200euros for a new set of pipes complete,dealer only,so what i done was to drill and tap to small hole then refit the push on connection and clamp it on with the two grub screws

check for fuel pressure, does the fuel pump work while cranking??

is it not under the hood or on rad support

check the rotor inside the distributor,, it could be open circuit??? or the caps a dud one,, the little center carbon brush may be broken or the little string is missing,,,

Per your description it would appear the blower motor has failed. Have you checked for voltage at the motor and the motor ground ?
Let me know.

Disconnect the battery cable for a minute. Might work.