20 Most Recent 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country - Page 6 Questions & Answers

OK, if it starts and after you shut it off, it won't restart, then the likely culprit is the connection at the battery is dirty.

The starter needs a lot of power off of the battery to turn over the engine. And, if the connections are dirty, sometimes it will work, and other times it will not.

Try to remove the connections and wire brush them until they look shiny and new. Reconnect, and I think that you'll be pleasantly surprised.

The connection from the battery to the starter is with a thick wire.

The solenoid on the starter is operated by the key switch.

Good luck on this repair.

If you have no fuel pressure and no spark when cranking, that sounds like your ecm is bad. If the Check Engine Light is not illuminated on the dash, when you turn on the ignition, then the ecm is definitely bad. Have it checked out.

Your spark plug gap is .0350 inch.Plug type is Champion RC12LYC or matching type in other brand.Hope this helps

If yours has one (many don't) it would be on the left side of the block above the oil pan rail.

No but this does depend on your skill level, If you can chage oil you can change this water pump it just takes a little patience to get all the things in front of it out of the way.

you can try a junkyard to start most have what they call a hotline they goto for parts if they don't have it,i live in pa.and we have harry's u pull it, the largest on the east coast, (570)459-9901,you can give them a call and see if they have it,or next to them there is kress recyclers 1-800-528-6336,if this info. help you please leave me a thumbs up rating.Thanks.

It's mounted on the transmission flange where it bolts to the engine block.Left hand side.Just above the middle.(On a clockface description,About 10 o'clock)Hope this helps

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

i would check the wiring for bad connections and check your fuse box for a relay on the alternator battery and the fuses as well

You will find it if you look on the firewall in the engine bay.To remove it,undo the bolts etc.and it comes out into the engine bay.It's not a hard job.Hope this helps you

I just got done changing alot on my year/model vehicle. I need to ask does it start and run or just turn over and not start? Then I can tell you what I learned as I replaced several parts to finally get mine running.

rotate tensioner and pull belt off while holding.

This could be several different things. Check your balljoints, tie rod ends, or possibly your wheel bearings. Pretty much make sure that your front suspension is tight(without alot of play) and that any boots are not torn and that they are full of grease.

Typically its either the thermostat or radiator fluid issue. On mine, I flushed the radiator twice, changed out the thermo and then inspected it for a while. Still overheated. I noticed the auxilary fan wasn't coming on, fuses were good, thermo is good. I just hotwired the dang thing to a switch inside. Works great. Engine stays cool now.

could be a number of things , most tlikely being tires out of balance, ball joints worn , or tie rods worn, cheapest to start would be to have tires checked and balanced

try keeping steady pressure on shift handle while moving to disengage fully then try again. sometimes it takes awhile. I had a
heck of a time with mine until i kept steady pressure on the shifter
to get it out of 4 wheel drive while moving,, gentle pressure.

Don't need a diagram for this... Leave the center nut alone! To replace the pads and remove the rotors, remove the two bolts that are on the inboard side of the calipers. Can't remember the size but there are small, somewhere around 10mm to 1/2". Once you get them off, remove the pads, then re-install the inner pad and using a large "c" clamp, drive the piston back into the caliper.
Once the caliper has been removed, it should just about fall off.
If not, use lots of wd40 or other solvent around where it meets the hub and into the wheel studs where they pass through the rotor. Use a heavy mallet or even a hammer to loosen them up.
Rotors are inexpensive and generally cutting them unless they are not very old is not recommended, so don't bother saving them unless it's absolutely necessary.
Be careful threading the caliper bolts back in. They must be in straight as they are very narrow and easily cross threaded.Always make sure that the slides they pass through are not frozen ane are properly lubed. Install is the reverse of removal.

hi i think my last post was lost for some reason., but here it is again, the knocking sound you can hear is probably the big end bearings worn, these are the shells that go between the conrod and the crank shaft , it sounds like they have worn either by lack of oil at some time, or just through age and use, this is also normally accompanied by low oil pressure light coming on but not always, 2 options you have are, another engine, or repair the bearings , but this will depend on how bad the crank has been damaged by the worn bearings..hope this helps please vote and rate thanks

Loosen the bolts that hold the power steering pump to it's bracket and use the transverse bolt under the pump to loosen it.
If there is no diagram of the belt routing on the radiator support, draw one then remove and replace the belt. Use the same transverse bolt to tighten the pump 'till you have one inch or less deflection in the belt. Tighten the other bolts you loosened and you are done. Always check adjustment after the first day running .
Most will not need a second adjustment but always good to check.