Is the oil pouring on the ground as you add oil? If yes, the oil drain plug could be missing, or installed loosely; the oil pan could be damaged, the oil pan gasket could be broken or missing, the oil dipstick pipe could be loose where it meets the engine. Are you a first time car owner? Have you overfilled the engine with oil perhaps?
Hooking up a scan tool to see if the engine computer is communicating should be done . The ECU - engine computer controls a relay to energize the fuel pump relay . Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? How to read an use a wiring diagram to find testing points in a electrical circuit ? It's probably the main relay , this powers up the Powers up the ECU ,that's why the check engine light is not on .
For Michael Subaru Main Fuel Pump Relay check out
removing a battery terminal can often corrupt the CPU program in the ECM
first try using the scan tool to reset the ECM
check for cam sensor wires /loose connections from moving the harness around to remove the plugs
you can purhcase a replacement remote and program it to the car. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html
that link will give you instructions on how to add a new remote
Have you had it hooked up to a scan tool ? check sensor data ! Your vehicle has no cold start valve . Black smoke out the back indicates a rich condition , holding gas pedal to the floor causes the engine computer to go into WOT mode shutting off the injectors . Suggest you do injector leak down test , leaking fuel injectors ! Ever replace fuel injectors ?
If your car has a cable speedometer it needs to be removed from the transmission to install it on the cluster first. Lift up the rubber boot that covers the end attached to the transmission. Now find and remove the retainer clip, take a pic or sketch how it looks installed before removal. Some versions of the cable use a hex threaded end and will unscrew with a wrench.Now you can pull the cable out of the transmission do no use excessive force it will just pop out. With the slack you can now easily attach the cluster and the electrical plugs.
Hi.
First you have to ascertain whether the problem is in the cable or the cluster. They are both separate costs.
The cable is definitely cheaper than the cluster.
http://parts.cioccasubaru.com/p/Subaru_1995_Impreza/CABLE-SPEEDOMETER/49247685/37410AA151.html?partner=googlebase
Hope that helps.
G
It almost sounds as if you had some sort of security system in the car that disables the ignition and prevents the car from starting. How do you know that you have power to the starter? Does the engine actually turn over? If that is the case, you might have a bad wire connection from the starter to the main power supply.
there is a fuse for that circuit in the fusebox lower dash if this is ok check that your getting power to the high beam wire at bulb holder if not the part of switch for high beam isn't working if are getting power check the bulb holders for warping etc as can get very hot and mishapen so that the bulb doesnt always sit on the contacts but if bothe lights out i'd think its a power supply problem
Noise lifters on a 2.5 engine of the first generation are an unusuak problem; these engines are known to have "piston slap", which can sound fairly similar to noisy lifters. I owned a Forester with those symptoms and drove the car for more than 3 years without doing anything about it. The only real cure would be an engine rebiuld, which is , in most cases, not worth the effort, especially since most of the "stricken" cars continue to work without any problems for a long time.
The M8 bolt that secures it is easy to remove, but the sensor is often rusted in, especially on the rear. If so, you will have to remove the rotor and hub. The ABS sensor coils region is about 13mm diameter, the sensor magnet tip is about 6mm. Find a LONG 1/4" shaft socket with outside dimensions a bit less than 13mm. This will fit over the magnet tip. The base of the socket sits on the coil. GENTLY tap the socket, and if you are lucky, the ABS sensor will slide out without destroying itself. Be prepared to replace the expensive sensors if you damage them. Parts suppliers are much cheaper than dealers.
I assume you mean engine cooling fans. The primary fan is bolted to the water pump and turns with the engine-always runs. The other fan is for when the engine begins to overheat. the coolant temp. sensor triggers it at high temp. You'll hear it kick in. My 1.8L Suby's have rarely utilized this electric fan. Be careful looking around under the hood. Both fans are right there on the front and ready to hurt you. If your car is overheating and this secondary fan has not come on, then it's not working. But you should look deeper to find out why the overheating is occurring-this fan is for "normal" overheating;long steep climbs etc.