1998 Subaru Legacy - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ken, that sensor is part of the pump/gauge sender unit in the fuel tank. I went through that same wild goose chase on my Legacy. I found a bad solder joint on my unit which I was able to repair, so I now have one left over. If you need a nice used one with about 60K miles on it let me know. tscooter2 @gmail .com

Hope that helps.

It is usually the front cam and crank seal ..have to take the covers off and inspect too be sure.. in rare cases the valve covers will leak inside to the cover but I dont think yours is set up that way

Yes it could, but the cars have a bad reputation for eating head gaskets, so just to be safe, keep your eye on the temp gauge, don't let it over heat, carry water with you. and check for steam out the exhaust when driving, look for oil in the radiator, it will float to the top. A radiator shop can tell you real fast if you have a blown head gasket. We just did one here, found it easier to replace the motor than to do the heads. I have heads if you need them, J25. But on the bright side, could just be low on water. Your thermostat will usually make the engine run cold from being stuck wide open, If it gets stuck in the closed position, it will overheat, pop open the rad cap when warmed up, careful, look to see if the water is moving. If it is, the thermostat is open, will not overheat.

have u checked the fan is comming on when needed

The transmission dipstick on these cars is a deceiving little devil. wait 4-5 mins. after you add fluid and recheck several times to be sure of the correct level. is this a rebuilt or used unit? how much ATF did you put in? If only the pan was drained about 4 qts. should be close.If the torque converter was well drained you may need 7 qts. or more.It can be difficult to get the converter fully engaged in the trans pump it should not be more than about 1/4 on an inch (6-7mm) proud of the bell housing face.If it was installed not having the pump drive sleeve fully seated,you may have damaged the pump or bent the flex plate. does it sound OK? funny ticking or whine?

you may have dented the fuel tank, you maay have damaged the catalitic converter or muffler.

Is it rusted and leaking?

My 98 Subaru has this same problem. I changed the filter and had the injectors cleaned and flow checked. I think that as the electric fuel pump (that is on the sender unit that is in the fuel tank) begins to wear out, the output of the pump drops off and can't keep up with engine demand during exceleration. I think this is why the car is hard to start with only a partially filled fuel tank. When the tank is not full, the pump is not "helped" by the weight (head pressure) of the fuel in the tank. I may be crazy. I will be changing this pump soon. I found one at my local Auto Value in stock for $130.00. Be glad you have a Subaru because you can take the sender unit out of the tank from inside the car. Other manufacturers make you remove the tank.

Let me know if you have any new developments.

Wes

are you loosing coolant ?If the answer is yes, your head gaskets are gone .If not check for any air in the radiator there is air vent on the left side of the radiator.

Very simple job for you based on your described abilities. If you have the EJ-25 motor it is a little involved but not a hard job. Do your self a favor and when removing the Timing belt make sure you put it at TDC and line the marks correctly so assembly will go much smoother. Good luck and have a great day.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26408&highlight=heater+control+lights
Thys is how to take it apart ,and you will need, Two P#72351AC061 light bulbs . And one P# 72351AC051. Easy fix .

to start you have to pull out your cup holder and unscrew two screws with are holding it in place .then you can pop out the upper an then the lower trim panel .under the lower panel you will see four screws holding the radio .Take em out ad disconnect the antenna lead and electrical connectors.

typically it will be a bad thermostat, which is a easy fix. refer to your car repair manual for easy instructions

Funny you should ask - we have the same problem on a '96 outback. Then i noticed those lights go out on our '90 legacy and come back on when i smacked the dashboard. it appears that there is a short somewhere behind the switches. Going to try and dig in today and will let you know what i find...

sometimes the flap (door) thats controlled by the switch for heat or air will get out of wack. this is a tuffy because all that is behind the dash. you could pull it out or try under it to see if your switch moves correctly.hope this is of some help

unlock doors with the key from drivers door

• Dont' just replace the engine, if its need to overhaul the engine do so it is much cheaper and at least you will buy a new parts for your old engine and at least your sure that the parts are brand new.
  

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ramy_d9e7ebea3891f482

Clicking in this situation is due to either a low battery, the solenoid and/or starter, or a bad connection at the battery, the ground, or the starter & solenoid connections.

Autoparts stores like autozone will lend you a good battery while they charge yours if it tests low & after making sure the battery is fully charged, clean the terminal connections and try again. If you still have the problem you will need to test the solenoid & starter independently after checking to be sure the starter is tightly installed, no wiggle & the wires all have good connections as mentioned above. Good luck.

if you change the battery in your remote at 12 noon then you won't have to set the time

take it to a mechanic who know his onions and he will tell you straight away what the noise is ,have you changed the engine oil every 6000miles ,if not could be a hydraulic tappet.