1998 Subaru Legacy - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

On my 1998 subaru legacy outback limited I replaced the thermostat and did a radiator flush and fill and it overheated when I tested it. It basically overheated because there was air in the system. I relieved it by running the car and partially unscrewing the black plastic relief screw on the top left of the radiator(looking at it from the front of the car) until it stopped hissing and fluid started coming out then I screwed it back tight and I've never had a problem since. I think subarus are pretty fussy with this because my mechanic even missed it when they did the head gaskets.

its your tentioner on your timing belt my 2000 subaru did the same thing

currently, I have the same type of problem with my98 legacy outback limited w automatic. The clicking on mine is definitely the fuel pump relay which is to the left of the pedals under the driver side dash panels. It is above the fuse box and I had to remove the fuse box to get my hand up there to feel what was clicking. My problem is more prevalent when the car is cold. Things that have been diagnosed and replaced are: fuel pump, fuel pump relay (heavy duty), ignition relay(heavy duty), ECU, TCU, alternator, ignition coil, and fuel filter. I've had my car in the shop a few times and my mechanic is stumped. He's had it hooked up to the computer and checked all of the circuits that can affect that relay. It's very hard to diagnose because it is so intermittent. The only thing that ever changed the problem was a used ignition control module(possibly a bad one) which made it click a lot more. I am going to see if Subaru can test the ignition control module because they, many times, do not give you any codes and they do very weird things to the way cars run. I hope one of us finds the answer to this problem.

There is a switch on top of the steering column that turns the parking lights on and off.

the light switch has gone bad causing the lights to stay on

probably a closed thermostat, and it should be replaced asap or you will overheat the engine and damage it badly.

Are you in the USA?There are no free downloadable diagrams for information such as that due to copyright laws.The best thing you could do is to find a Haynes vehicle manual for your car's year/make/model.Haynes has wiring diagrams and some repair procedures,whereas Chilton is more about parts breakdown assembly/disassembly.A Haynes goes for about $20 and should be available at most any national auto parts store.If you do not want to purchase one because you do not think you will use it much,my local library has these manuals available to look at/check out,but most of them are Chiltons.So try your local library if you like.Personally,when I get a new vehicle,I always go out and buy a Haynes for it.ANY website/advertisement which says they have a free SERVICE/REPAIR manual is full of it and are just leading you on.I did some research on copyright law a few years ago and there is absolutely no way ANYONE would give out this info for free.If there is a specific problem which you want to ask about,just post it back on here and I can try to help you out.I am very knowledgable about electric system design and operation.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.I really encourage responses so I can follow up properly as I know where you stand and asking someone else restarts all the explaining because we cannot see other 'Expert's' responses.Good luck,Greg

Ebay usually has the best prices on whatever clutch you decide to buy. Before you do though, there should be an adjustment at the clutch pedal. If you get a couple wrenches and unlock the clutch master pushrod adjuster nuts and effectively lengthen the pushrod, you can probably get a little more life out of the clutch you have now.

your heater core is leaking, need to replace it or u can put a hose connector to by-pass heater, this is done for temporary repair only. under hood look for two coolant hoses that go into firewall of veh. and install a hose connector that is same outside diameter of the inside of hoses & install two clamps to keep pressure from coming out.

did you replace all the plugs and did you get any wires crossed

Could be water pump but first check thermostat & electric fans if equipped.

yes, there is a big belt and it is a job to replace, remove just about everything up front, radiator, timing covers, fan, belts, pulleys, hoses, etc, I think you change the water pump at the same time, not sure, But get the new belt with timing marks on it, they come in real handy, clamp the cams so they don't retract, before pulling the belt, put a pin in the belt tensioner hole if it has one, then pull the belt off, align all the marks, they have to be perfect, or don't bother. When it is all set to the marks, release the tension on the tensioner and spin the engine by hand with spark plugs removed , a couple times, when it comes around to one mark again, check them all, they all should be right on the mark. If you can't find a belt with the marks on it already, mark the old belt, with a white out pen or junk yard pen, relay the marks to the new belt. Then try it, it is most important that they line up. Crank and cams, all have marks on them. Hope this helps.

See if you have lock out coverage on your auto insurance, and call an automobile locksmith.

sounds like a wheel bearing breaking up

Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the transmission.
2. Install a flywheel locking tool.
3. Remove the pressure plate mounting bolts from the flywheel.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.

To Install:

1. Insert a clutch disc alignment tool through the disc splines and into the flywheel pilot bearing. Pressure plate balance mark location
   
   
2. Install the pressure plate on the flywheel with a gap of 120° or more between the "0" balance marks on the flywheel and pressure plate. Hand tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts.
3. Tighten the pressure plate mounting bolts using a crisscross pattern 12 ft-lb (16 Nm).
4. Remove the clutch disc alignment tool.
5. Install the transmission.

I would have the car scanned by an obd-II scanner to see what codes are being thrown.

just looked up the 1998 Legacy, and the all wheel drive is a constant drive system, so if you don't have any drive to the rear, there is no electrical switches or solenoids to turn the rear drive on or off the system is all mechanical, so you need to take a good look at the drive shaft going to the rear wheels, Jack the car up all 4 wheels and install jack stands under all four lower a-frames then have some one start the car and put the trans. in gear and watch the rear drive shaft to see if it is turning, if it is not you will have to have the trans-axle checked out for a bad rear drive gear, if the drive shaft is turning but the rear wheels are not you will have to have the rear differential checked for a broken ring or pinion gear, but what you may find is that the drive shaft may have a broken u-joint and that you can fix yourself, pay very close attention to were the drive shaft attaches to the trans-axle and the differential.......i hope this helps let me know if there is any thing i can help you further with.

If this is happening at around 40 to 50 mph and it goes away when you go faster or slower then those speeds you probably need a wheel balanced. (please rate if this helps any Thank you)

if engine light stays on all the time it means there is a stored code (somethings wrong could be minor or something that needs attention) most parts stores will scan your car for free