Top 20 1997 Lexus ES 300 - Page 11 Questions & Answers

sorry to say my alldata doesnt list no1 cylinder ,but engine can be timed to any cylinder ,1 to 6 without any timing marks but you would need to have studied at college for 6 yrs like me to do this but trust me its not complicated ,bring up any cylinder to top then look at the cams ,if in doubt ask a local mechanic to have a look dont play as if its wrong you could bend the valves and in extreme circumstances knock a hole in a piston crown

It may be a good idea to have an experienced AC person take a look at the problem. It may be as simple as recharging the system or a seal problem. Whatever it may be, you don't want any Freon leaking into the environment if you can stop it. Have them take a look and see if they can find the problem for you.

There are several all around the engine block and cylinder heads. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/oscar_403cc49e0f00cda7

that could possibly be a transmission issue that you're experiencing. mine did the o/d flashing and took it to a mechanic seems like my 4th gear was almost about done. i would recommend you turn o/d off and take it to a transmission specialist so they can make sure your tranny is fine first. if the tranny is fine then i wouldn't know what else would be the issue.

Sorry dealer only ,sounds like a fault with electronics ,but i have no idea as please remember that when i studied motor vehicle technology the cars were made of metal ,had long stroke engines ,3 speed manual gearboxes and radios made with valves in them ,

The usual method for most cars is to use shims between the lid and the hinge, but not sure if this works for yours.

Try spraying lube in latch mechanism once door is open. You may even have to bend striker plate on door if possible. Try lube first. "PB blaster" works well If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rodger_15a879d9d9556eea

hello,the fault code [generic-po306] is a cylinder 6 misfire,and can throw up manufacture specific p1135 and p1155. get a local garage to remove the number 6 plug from your lexus,and view the electrode end to see if it is 'oiled up'as you could have an internal engine problem,however it is rare to just have 1 cylinder with a specific problem,and will most commonly be the coil,you would be better off to replace all the 6 spark plug's and the 1 coil for that defective cylinder, hope that helps, regards.

Most likely the pressure line, if it's leaking. I haven't replace to many return lines. Unless the are so rusted they leak. Then I replace both.

need year and a clearer question. No diagrams here but google search works

Locate the oil filter, he oil pressure censer is near by.

Google the code & read about it

Over fuelling is black smoke, most other colours are engine wear. What colour is it or do you know there is an overfuel problem? The breakdown of one or more sensors giving info to the ecu is likely the cause. You don't give the mileage but when was it last serviced? Smog checked etc.

I think you have a stuck open fuel injector that is dumping fuel into your engine. This can be very bad for the engine where yhe fuel could get into the crankcase and explode, have it checked right away.

If it is a factory alarm you should be able to disable it by locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key.

so put it back on ,same color

vent control solenoid is located by the engine air filter box.

you may have a fuel problem check the fuel pressure and volume it may be enough to start the engine and idle but not supply enough fuel to drive. also it could be a fuel filter plugged and needs changing. another possibility is a bad TPS sensor.

what year

Public library, automotive database,(i like mitchell) check service bulletins and recalls, check wiring updates under dealer info... now pull up the schematic and parouse the info you may have found. compare it to the changes and updates that may be available. This can be timely and effective approach short of asking a tech at the toyota service dept. BUT, giving them a chance to answer may reveal another course. I dont need to tell you there are so many questions that come up when searching for electrical answers...what equipment and options, type of emission category, what powertrain etc. (I.E.) go check the car and come back to the schematic to continue... another idea, does it have pad wear sensors and are you taking away a ground thats being provided by the sensor when you go upline in the circuit to disconnect? you could check the plug you disconnected for a ground, the try to trace it to the wheel. or get any pad related sensor away from the pad. excuse me for not having brake job experience on this model so its just a brainstorm idea. another idea, with all known wireplugs disconnected, is the harness in continuity with chassis ground? i once had motor coaches that did this, and they ended up recalling switches that indicated brake pressure during application. the light illuminated when it wanted to and seemed to be affected by turning at a slow roll. we found that by working in the area of the steering column and saw a drip coming from the sensor switch. turned out it was vibration and temperature that was making the intermittant ground come and go, not turning and rolling so much. Bonzai !