20 Most Recent 2000 Honda Accord - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I am having the same issue after I changed my battery today. Upon doing some research it seems like there is some way of aiding the computer with proper idling. I haven't done it yet... plan on going to the dealership where I got the battery, but from my understanding you disconnect the negative line from the battery for a few mins, reconnect, and then apply gas at 3000 rpm for a few mins until the fan kicks on. AND this will help reset your car to proper idling. Good luck

Yes you can, if by fog lights you mean after market ones., Just takes a switch, wire, 40 amp fuse and 5 pin relay, soldering iron, wiring conduit, sharp edge to bare wire, wiring diagram and some insulation tape.

I believe you're referring to the anti-theft starter lockout. The immobilizer key system will lock out the starter function if the wrong key is used. Another possible starter lock out would be the neutral safety switch(on auto trans) or the clutch pedal switch(on manual)

Try the lights to see if battery is working. Also try starting it in neutral instead of park. This checks the Park/neutral safety switch on the transmission. If it starts in neutral, it may just need the shifter cable adjusted. If not then the switch is bad.If battery is strong, you need to test for a start signal at the starter while in the cranking position. If you have power at the signal wire, and the battery/cables are ok, the starter is out.

sounds like u have a problem with the "brain". The agitator and spin cycle should never run at the same time. therefore it leads me to A: brain issue B:problem in the actual transmission of what cycle should be running. You will continue to smell the burning rubber due to the issue being one of the two explained above. Does it ever NOT spin? If this is the case the likely hood is that it will be a solenoid.

any scan tool does that. (USA, all my posts are USA, so .....?????) what i say does NOT apply out of USA> ever.! on allcars you pull a secret fuse and do that, (ask) or see alldata.com ore read the FSM. or pull battery neg. lug for 5min, (risky) but doing so, can kill the radio or nav options on cars. or worse. (newer cars, you can loose many learn data.) cases in points, newer cars, lose throttle by wire data, idle learn transmission learn. data, and can be a pain to get back. RTM. so make a habit of using a scan tool or a dirt cheap reader to clear DTCs./ (errors) DTCs are Diagnostic Trouble Codes, (errors) now best practices. 1: check all fuses. 2: write down all DTC errors in the cars paper log book (make one) 3:reset the PCM. with the scan tool. if in USA, all shops can do this,or almost every autostore in this country. (shock) you can buy a scan tool for $9 bucks on fleabay now. so is not a wallet killer. hint 4: if car has CAN-BUS PCM you need a can-bus scan tool. about 2004 (others read this post) all cars in USA are now Can-Bus. (to extremes)

dont crank at the normal 250rpm or more, yes/no cranks perfectly but does not start ? same, but starts and stalls in 2 seconds.? which?

bingo, hondas are all interference engines, (99%) http://www.interferenceengines.com/honda.html 3.0L J30A1 V6 200 hp (150 kW)??????? this one? SOHC V6 no compression on all cylinders????????? or just 1. 1: the valves were bent. at the belt snap?, (skipping 60k service !@) 2: you timed the cam wrong. 3 : The system uses the i-VTEC system to turn off one bank of cylinders under light loads so maybe this feature is active? and you didnt check all cylinders for compression? ???? try all 6 and post. did you follow all steps in the FSM to do this job? y/n or alldata.com ???? 4: did you have the HLA valve lifters out. and not prime them? per FSM. if you like this car, why not own a FSM. (or equiv) never ever crank over any interference engine after any major work (heads off, cam belt, change,or lost compression) until: 1: you turn engine over by hand, sparks out. 2: then run a cyl. leak down test, first. on all 6 if not ,the 7 HP starter can in FACT bend valves. that be Rule 1. (or $$$$$$$_)

you are just guessing, good luck there are 3000 parts in the car. first off , you did post year,(goog), and accord but not the sub models 23 total, EX.LX.DX. and others. you did not post the country you are in or the engine type opted for your when sold new. world wide, they had (wiki lists them all) engines....... 1.8 L F18B I4 (CD3) 2.0 L F20B I4 (CD4) 2.0 L F20B3 I4 (CD9) 2.2 L F22A3 I4 (CD2) 2.2 L F22B I4 (CD5, CD7) 2.2 L F22B1 I4 (CD5, CD7) 2.2 L F22B2 I4 (CD5, CD7) 2.2 L H22A I4 (CD6, CD8, CF2) 2.7 L C27A4 V6 (CE6) your car has one of these. USA:? 2.3L I4 VTEC or the 3.0L J30A1 V6 200 hp (150 kW) now back to those symptoms. (no out door temperatures stated, -50F Alaska or 80F Key West?) 1: wont start. (50 causes there are) less than 3000 ... for sure... 2: but you said the cranking was slow and in same breath, battery is not weak, this is key ,and contradictory. a: if battery stays at 10v cranking its not week but if less IT IS. b: if battery was good, and crank rpm below 250rpm then there are other reasons, weak starter, one cylinder in engine, flooded with water. or engine seizures.... bad starter, etc. sadly you did not try a JUMPER cable jump start to prove the battery is car is good or bad. off a running other good car. if it started ok, that is cranked ok we would know your battery is bad or only just discharged. and if it cranked ok wed know the engine was not seized and the starter is in fact good. all that from just a jump, amazing huh? if you can get past robust cranking we can work no starts. no starts are a total different thing, Good engine, good EFI (and spark) cranking is a unique system on the car, and most be dealt with at its own level. but do tell us what you are driving, for better answers the above is just basics.

Low "engine power". can be caused by 50 things. a service tech, will do tests , as little as 5 tests. to find which path the problem lies, and this all takes tools. you have tools? my guess, is you want me to guess.? ok , i spin my 50 point roulette wheel and it lands on.... 3 tries... 1: never did a tune up at the critical 60,000 mile marks. 2: Bad fuel. 3: #1 intake valve burned and engine is a 3 cylinder engine now, over 25% loss in power 1/4th. if 4cyl and not the v6.

see FSM see alldata.com see ESM 2000 here. 253mb size ISO http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

what engine, cyl count, displacement and what year, above show 2 years 2000 and 1994, confusing that. if a 94 the FSM cover this as does alldata.com and free (might be here, must know engine type) http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

honda.com , no really see the parts list. it there at most dealers on line. the FSM, no kidding the factory service manual. or faster? alldata.com

Yes --- the fix is to remove the wire that you hooked up as it obviously was not meant to go where you put it. IF the brake lights will not stop working then check the switch at the top of the brake pedal under the dash or check the brake light module for correct operation

(main relay) common problem on honda

hit what, the actual lamps?

It sounds like you may have a bad bearing on the inside CV half what that is on the drivers side. It is basically a carrier bearing that bolts to the back of the motor that the cv able slides into. Jack up the car and grab the cv axle beside that ceasing and try to move it up and down. Very much play at all and you wind up with that thumping especially under acceleration.

are you talking about refrigerant when you say cooling gas? if your systems pressure is too low there is usually a pressure switch in the system that wont let the compressor kick on so no, it shouldnt run if the system isnt charged with refrigerant, although I cant gaurantee its the same for every vehicle.

is it 2.3L or 3.0 L engine this will help.

English but if you search this site , i posted 25 times the answer with full lost operators guide steps. in the short, you CANT. its dealer only method, or certifed lock smiths. do the search for Radio codes, lost.