20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki Swift - Page 6 Questions & Answers

One of your injectors has taken in some sediment from the bottom surface of your fuel tank. I would suggest having the injector nozzles replaced and a new fuel filter also to insure that this does not reoccur.Thank you, Dana

could be a couple things, fuse, wire off, broken window track

either pin swiching which controls interior light un plug them and see if that solves the problem failing that master door slave inside driverdoor

it could be the temperature sensor or you can change the termostat,change the fan sensor too,good luck

Check the wiring for the motor witihn the door first.

Try penetrating oil around center hole and 8mm holes if rust is present. Then, pound hard on the radius edge between face of drum and top/bottom braking surface.

If no luck, you might need to back off the shoe adjustment rod located behind an oblong hole on the bottom of the backing plate.

Youll see small teeth if you view through the oblong hole(might have a rubber plug in it)
Put a screwdriver in the hole and try to ratchet the teeth in one direction or another (it will only go in one direction) once you see which way it moves, usually with a corresponding "click", Stop........you need to turn it the other way.

To do this, you must take a small thin screwdriver or ice pick and poke it in past the small toothed gear until it hits a surface. Put more pressure and you should feel it move.
This is the ratcheting arm that kept you from moving the gear in the other direction.

Now you should be able to turn the toothed wheel in the opposite direction to loosen the brake shoes from the braking surface of the drum.

The 8mm bolt holes are there to help pull the drum, but, if the shoes have worn into the drum a lot, it leaves an edge on the inner edge of the drum which wont let the drum slide past the shoes, which is why you need to back off the adjustment rod to pull the shoes away from the drum to allow it to be removed.

If all else fails, the shoes are held against the backing plate by two pins, held in place by small coil springs and keeper plates.

If you look at the backing plate, you should see two small circular discs at the roughly 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions. These are the heads of the keeper pins which hold the shoes on to the backing plate. Take a small and preferably sharp chisel, and shear these small discs off the backing plate. Now, you should be able to pry off the drum and survey the damage. You will need to replace these parts. Ask your parts dealer for a "spring kit" for the rear drum brakes of your particular vehicle.

Hope this helps

get your tires checked and maybe it could be in your front axles

You can buy a wire harness at walmart that plugs into your factory harness,you just have to wire it to the radio,comes with very easy instructions,and cost about 14-15 $

WIRES ARE DIFFERENT!

YOU HAVE TWO OPTTIONS

1. YOU CAN GET AN ADAPTER LIKE AT WALMART FOR $7 MADE JUST FOR YOUR CAR AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO CUT ANY WIRES

OR

2. YOU NEED TO CUT THE WIRES, THEN YOU CAN GO TO WWW.INSTALLER.COM AND THE COLOR CODE CHART FOR YOUR CAR

does it still brake when the pedal goes to the floor. my guess is it is leaking fluid out of the rear brake cylinder. the rear brake cylinders are in side the drums so you may not notice a leak there.i would take off both rear wheels and take the drums off and see if there is a leak out of the seal on the brake cylinder. that is a fairly common problem with all drum brakes and the cylinders are only about 12 bucks at napa.

secrnizers are bad

hi
im dave
Is there a leak in one of the fuel lines? Check the length of the fuel lines from the pump (you may need an extendable mirror to see the top of gas tank) right up to the point where it enters the fuel rail on the engine. Take special note of the junctions and try to do it with the car running and at a slight idle so fuel is pumping. Check next for a smell of too much gasoline along the fuel rail as one of the injectors may be improperly seated and or broken and leaking. Has the service engine check engine light come on at all or come on and gone out. If your o2 sensor(s) go you use more fuel. If they go there should be a code stored in your PCM (computer). You can pull any codes out of that car by finding the connector and jumping it. Also if your air element(filter) or any pipes are clogged in that system up to the throttle body you will use much more fuel.

Let me know how these tests go

please be more explicit ,are you refering to engine warning light,4x4 warning light??queens english please or castelano traditional

Remove plastic studs from door closer. Unscrew three retaining screws. remove grab.
Unhook window winder retaining clip. Best done with small long-nose pliers. window winder retaining clip located inside plastic winder handle section. Will need to prise away winder handle from door slightly to expose clip. locate and gently pull clip from winder shaft.
unscrew door opener / lock assembly retaining screw.
gently prise lower trim retaining press studs from door. remove lower trim.
gently , from rear of door, pull upper trim from door and similtaniously prise upper trim press studs from door.
gently giggle door opener / lock assembly through upper trim . remove trim
gently with flat blade, peel off plastic dust sheeting.
access to inside off door is now possible.
Reassembly reverse of above

Cheers !

ozzy11

GLOVE BOX AREA PASSANGER SIDE GOD BLESS

Hello! I've been away myself for the Festivities and havn't logged into my FixYa desk. The management light shows many faults some of which are minor i.e. service interval others could be serious but from the small description you have left it appears that if the vehicle is performing well and no serious problems also all fluid levels are correct then you should be fine for local driving.
You need a Technician to plug in a OBDII diagnostic reader to look at the fault messages logged in the (Brain/Computer) of your Vehicle. (This doesn't have to be Suzuki) It should be a qualified Technician.
Have a Happy New Year!
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0)~[><

Hey what? should be pretty much the same on any car.

There will be one bolt on it for locking the tensioner bolt. Loosen that. Then you can unwind the tensioner bolt.. you'll see it moving towards the motor as you undo it... that slackens the belt off so you can remove the belt.

After that, you can either undo the bracket from the block (obvious when you look) or undo the bolts from the bracket to the alternator.

Unplug the battery first!!